13b into a B2600i
02-27-10, 05:12 PM
#103
ok, well i got a full front clip with dash and suspension and everything for around $2500 complete, so i will have all the stuff to do an irs on my truck if i ever want to and then i can sell off parts too.
i got it from an online importer that i have heard mixed reviews from, but i figure if it needs a rebuild then it needs a rebuild ya know?
ill prolly tear into it to check all the seals and rotors and everything right off the bat.
my mounts are supposed to be here this week also, so i guess we will see..
im really excited/nervous about this, but i had to do something. i have been mulling over the idea for too long and just had to buck up and order something and take my chances. atleast i have something to work off of now ya know?
so if anyone needs any jdm fc parts, lemme know lol
i got it from an online importer that i have heard mixed reviews from, but i figure if it needs a rebuild then it needs a rebuild ya know?
ill prolly tear into it to check all the seals and rotors and everything right off the bat.
my mounts are supposed to be here this week also, so i guess we will see..
im really excited/nervous about this, but i had to do something. i have been mulling over the idea for too long and just had to buck up and order something and take my chances. atleast i have something to work off of now ya know?
so if anyone needs any jdm fc parts, lemme know lol
02-27-10, 06:08 PM
#105
its got to be custom, but pretty much just use the a arms and fab bag mounts. i will still need a lot of stuff like the rear axle and all that jazz, but i am not even looking to tackle this for awhile if even at all..
my main concern is to get the engine in and running first. i have enough on my plate for now to even worry about irs since i will have to completely redo my back half on the truck to accommodate irs.
my main concern is to get the engine in and running first. i have enough on my plate for now to even worry about irs since i will have to completely redo my back half on the truck to accommodate irs.
02-28-10, 10:41 AM
#106
Right near Malloy
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I'd much rather get a rear clip. You'd have the appropriate axle shafts and differential. The front spindles are not designed to have axles go into them.
02-28-10, 11:42 AM
#107
ya, i realize i am missing the halfshafts and te spindles and the pumpkin and things, but i figure with the front clip i can sell what i dont need and purchase the rest. i was just planning on using the a arms from the front, but i see ur point in just buying the rear setup or just fabbing up custom a arms.
like i said, this will be way down the road. i just wanna drive this thing!
ok, well i guess i have another question, since this is already in the works.
i had planned to swap to 5x114.3 on my lugs since there are more choices and better offsets for rim and tire combinations. how would i go about changing the rear over to 5x114.3? is there mazda brakes that would be a direct fit to the rx7 irs?
like i said, this will be way down the road. i just wanna drive this thing!
ok, well i guess i have another question, since this is already in the works.
i had planned to swap to 5x114.3 on my lugs since there are more choices and better offsets for rim and tire combinations. how would i go about changing the rear over to 5x114.3? is there mazda brakes that would be a direct fit to the rx7 irs?
02-28-10, 04:54 PM
#108
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Why use A Arms for the front? the B2600 is already independent front.
And there are Mazda brakes that will bolt to the RX-7 rear independent suspension... They typically come on an RX-7.
And there are Mazda brakes that will bolt to the RX-7 rear independent suspension... They typically come on an RX-7.
03-23-10, 08:57 PM
#116
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It does to be 100% accurate. But you can get in the neighborhood with it cold.
You can use a piston tester. Hold the release valve and crank the engine. You should get three even pulses.
Let the release valve go and crank the engine, pressure should build up to 100ish psi.
Do it for both rotors.
You can also do it without a tester to just crank the engine and listen to three even pulses from each rotor.
You can use a piston tester. Hold the release valve and crank the engine. You should get three even pulses.
Let the release valve go and crank the engine, pressure should build up to 100ish psi.
Do it for both rotors.
You can also do it without a tester to just crank the engine and listen to three even pulses from each rotor.
Last edited by Pele; 03-23-10 at 09:14 PM.
03-23-10, 09:26 PM
#117
alright...
thats a lot easier than the write ups i was reading..
well a lot easier to comprehend atleast...
never done a compression test on an engine sitting on a crate before lol.. this should be interesting..
thanks for the info pele..
thats a lot easier than the write ups i was reading..
well a lot easier to comprehend atleast...
never done a compression test on an engine sitting on a crate before lol.. this should be interesting..
thanks for the info pele..
03-23-10, 09:34 PM
#118
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^can't do it in a crate... You'll need a starter on it. It needs to crank at 250 RPM. About regular cranking speed.
Get a starter and the transmission, bolt it all together and use jumper cables to crank it over.
Get a starter and the transmission, bolt it all together and use jumper cables to crank it over.
04-02-10, 02:50 PM
#121
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You could've got a 4G63 turbo motor on that keg if you had an 87-88 tranny
or if you had a b2200 you could've swapped a kia sportage motor in the block is essential the same mounts are the same etc
Lotso options out there lol I had 2 b2200s
or if you had a b2200 you could've swapped a kia sportage motor in the block is essential the same mounts are the same etc
Lotso options out there lol I had 2 b2200s