First car
07-10-15, 02:47 AM
#1
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First car
Hey, this is my first car, I'm just wondering if I have to do any extra maintenance when it's really cold in the winter
07-10-15, 10:49 AM
#2
welcome to the board. 
please state your car. it's not only important (for example, i could have tried to get you a link specific to your generation if you did), but it's a rule for this particular forum. read the stickies.
if you've been maintaining the car all along, there really shouldn't be any extra to do. the main points you want to touch will be electrical and antifreeze. you'll want to make sure all your main contacts are clean and tight/secure. you'll want a good battery, alternator and coils, but i know it can be hard to predict when any of them will quit. it might not hurt to start carrying some spark plugs with you in the winter.
for antifreeze, you'll want to make sure it's within the change/flush interval and depending on the kinds of temperatures you get in Alberta, you may change the ratio for higher antifreeze content. oil is another fluid you might want to adjust depending on the temperatures you face.
i think the biggest things you should consider for driving an Rx-7 in the winter are (1) tires and (2) YOU. tires make a tremendous difference. however, tires aside, you make the biggest difference. the way you think and behave is absolutely critical.
i hope some of this is what you were looking for.
please state your car. it's not only important (for example, i could have tried to get you a link specific to your generation if you did), but it's a rule for this particular forum. read the stickies.
if you've been maintaining the car all along, there really shouldn't be any extra to do. the main points you want to touch will be electrical and antifreeze. you'll want to make sure all your main contacts are clean and tight/secure. you'll want a good battery, alternator and coils, but i know it can be hard to predict when any of them will quit. it might not hurt to start carrying some spark plugs with you in the winter.
for antifreeze, you'll want to make sure it's within the change/flush interval and depending on the kinds of temperatures you get in Alberta, you may change the ratio for higher antifreeze content. oil is another fluid you might want to adjust depending on the temperatures you face.
i think the biggest things you should consider for driving an Rx-7 in the winter are (1) tires and (2) YOU. tires make a tremendous difference. however, tires aside, you make the biggest difference. the way you think and behave is absolutely critical.
i hope some of this is what you were looking for.
07-10-15, 11:08 AM
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Good antifreeze,gas line antifreeze and a thinner oil like 10w30.
But I tell ya that most guys won't drive their cherished possession in the winter.
Alberta..Hell no!..I've been there in winter..it's like a cube!
But I tell ya that most guys won't drive their cherished possession in the winter.
Alberta..Hell no!..I've been there in winter..it's like a cube!
07-10-15, 12:55 PM
#4
actually, speaking of Canada ...
my second Rx-7 had a block heater in it, as well as some other "evidence" that made me think it spent some of it's previous life in Canada, so if you still have receptacles for block heaters where you are, it may be appropriate to install one.
in my experience, i actually never had a problem driving an Rx-7 in "rough" winters. up until i moved to Florida, aside from having to get out of the snow-cocoons that the plows create and one unintentional spin during a blizzard back in 1994-95, i've never had an issue driving an Rx-7 in the winter ... and believe me, i've driven them through MANY!
as you see i mentioned tires above, it was the Rx-8 that actually cemented that lesson in my brain, back in the winter 2009-10. living in Florida now, i got in the habit of just buying "summer" tires, so when i went back to NY in 2009, i had an absolutely HORRIBLE experience driving in snow. i ended up just parking the car until spring because i couldn't afford a winter wheel package at the time.
my second Rx-7 had a block heater in it, as well as some other "evidence" that made me think it spent some of it's previous life in Canada, so if you still have receptacles for block heaters where you are, it may be appropriate to install one.
in my experience, i actually never had a problem driving an Rx-7 in "rough" winters. up until i moved to Florida, aside from having to get out of the snow-cocoons that the plows create and one unintentional spin during a blizzard back in 1994-95, i've never had an issue driving an Rx-7 in the winter ... and believe me, i've driven them through MANY!
as you see i mentioned tires above, it was the Rx-8 that actually cemented that lesson in my brain, back in the winter 2009-10. living in Florida now, i got in the habit of just buying "summer" tires, so when i went back to NY in 2009, i had an absolutely HORRIBLE experience driving in snow. i ended up just parking the car until spring because i couldn't afford a winter wheel package at the time.
07-12-15, 10:01 AM
#5
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It's not the cold, nor the snow, it's the SALT which should make one consider not driving these cars in the winter. Salt is murder.
As for everything else, yep, if the car is well maintained and in good shape, winter won't be an issue really. In fact I miss driving my rotary vehicles in the winter because the heater was damn impressive.
The tuneup sections of the Haynes manual and FSM are a good place to start.
The Factory Service Manuals for all years of RX-7 (and many other rotary cars) can be downloaded for free here: Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals . They contain all common service information and more, and are an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.
Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.
These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download. The Haynes is a good quick reference covering 99% of questions, while the FSMs show complete and detailed procedures.
As for everything else, yep, if the car is well maintained and in good shape, winter won't be an issue really. In fact I miss driving my rotary vehicles in the winter because the heater was damn impressive.
The tuneup sections of the Haynes manual and FSM are a good place to start.
The Factory Service Manuals for all years of RX-7 (and many other rotary cars) can be downloaded for free here: Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals . They contain all common service information and more, and are an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.
Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.
These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download. The Haynes is a good quick reference covering 99% of questions, while the FSMs show complete and detailed procedures.
07-21-15, 06:56 PM
#6
Decent tires, 10w-30 oil and what I call the ABCs will ensure fewer headaches when it gets snowy outside. The ABCs are Alternator, Battery and Cables. If you have a S4 (86-88) or S5 (89-91), I would HIGHLY recommend a FD Alternator for reliability. As for a battery, a regular one will suffice if reasonably new and not repeatedly drained. If you anticipate repeated discharging, an AGM battery such as a Deka Intimidator is money well spent. Now for the cables, the simple way is to get some with lug terminals on both ends and switch to Marine Battery Terminals. It's kind of a pain in the *** to extract the old ones from the Front Harness and separate them, but well worth it. Approximate cable lengths are as follows:
Battery positive to Starter Positive: 48"
Batt Positive to Fuse Box: 12" (keep this one stock, 8awg)
Batt. Positive to Alternator Output terminals: 30"
Batt Negative to to Main Chassis Ground: 24"
Main Chassis Ground to Starter/Block Ground: 24"
You should use at least 4awg cable for these and follow Aaron Cake's Ground FAQ to the letter.
Battery positive to Starter Positive: 48"
Batt Positive to Fuse Box: 12" (keep this one stock, 8awg)
Batt. Positive to Alternator Output terminals: 30"
Batt Negative to to Main Chassis Ground: 24"
Main Chassis Ground to Starter/Block Ground: 24"
You should use at least 4awg cable for these and follow Aaron Cake's Ground FAQ to the letter.
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