Brian.Keedy

I've got an '88 FC convertible in the garage. It last ran in 2009 and was running when it caught fire and burned. I've replaced the OMP lines and oil nozzles, vacuum hoses, fuel lines, fuel injectors and right side wiring harness. I drained the fuel tank too and intend to add a couple gallons of fresh gasiline. I just about have everything put back together.

I have questions about the fuel system and oiling system. Do I have to bleed the fuel system in any way to get fuel to the injectors? Do I need to worry about lubrication since I assume it will take some time for oil to get from the OMP to the oil nozzles on the block and intake manifold?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Oil wise it should be ok.

Fuel wise,do not start the engine but use the Fuel check connector,Key ON,and jumper the connector.
That will give you Pressure to the fuel lines and you can examine for any fuel leakage.

You can actually do this when your injection system and hoses are on the engine,upper manifold off.This will save you TONS of work if you get it ALL back together and discover a leak.

gearhead06

iTrader: (2)

No you do not have to bleed the fuel system. Pressure will bring the gasoline to the injectors and then into the motor.

Brian.Keedy

Really? Great. My biggest concern was with checking the lower fuel rail for leaks with the UIC in place - short of starting another fire. Thanks much.

Anything else I should be paying attention to before trying to start it?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

What Gearhead fails to mention is that the only time that the Car will get a signal to the Fuel pump is when the key is turned to START.You can turn the key to ON but it won't Prime.
That is why I recommend jumping the fuel connector with key ON.You do not crank the engine over causing the Ignition system to come into play and possibly sparking something you do not want to Light on FIRE.

Question:..WHY did the car catch on fire?Did you have a leaky Pulsation dampener?

Brian.Keedy

Yes. Leaking pulsation damper.

I replaced it with a banjo bolt - at least until I can determine if and how well it runs. What I've read so far seems to indicate it will start and run without the PD. Should know in a few days.

I wonder how many FCs in the US have burned because of leaky pulsation dampers?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

It's a common problem.
The banjo bolt fix is just fine,so don't let anyone tell you that you NEED a new pulsation dampener.if you have priced them,then you know why guys have just put a Banjo bolt in!,and so far they have been running FINE without it!
If you ever go to a higher HP setup then the Regulator(like Aeromotive) that you get will take care of that problem and then you can put your mind to rest once again.

thecrazydanish

My first fc very nearly burned because of a pulsation dampener. I just happened to catch it spitting fuel directly on the manifold. I went the route of buying a new one as I didn't know about the banjo at that time.

sp0ngebob

iTrader: (1)

whats the problem with the dampener and whats the solution? I'm new to this but don't want the car catching fire.

Brian.Keedy

Here are links to more information:

FC3S Pro v2.0: FAQ - Pulsation Damper

Fuel Pulsation Damper


and from the RX7 Club archives: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...ms-read-60160/

The problem with the part is that the internal rubber diaphram breaks or tears causing fuel to leak onto the engine on the exhaust side of the engine. If it ignites, the results aren't pretty. I've seen the aftermath of three such fires. All in 1988 convertibles. From what I've read the part fails more in the '86 - '88 models. In addition to regularly checking the part, I bought a fire extinguisher that sits behind the driver's seat.

Brian.Keedy

Mr. Styx, the fuel check connector works pretty slick. The fuel pump is pumping fuel and no leaks in the lower fuel rail and fuel lines. As soon as I can get the UIC and appendages back on we'll see what we have in terms of an engine. Thank you.

Brian.Keedy

I got everything put back together . . . it cranks . . . the spark plugs spark . . . the plugs are "wet" so I assume its getting fuel but not starting yet. Time to step away and perhaps do a little reading and come up with checklist of things to check.

Brian.Keedy

Second weekend of trying to start the little black vert for the first time since it caught fire in 2009.

I did my research, made a trip to the auto parts store for a quart of ATF, a hose and funnel and performed the full bore de-flooding procedure three separate times. I had and still have spark and the plugs are wet with fuel each time I remove them. The problem would therefore seem to be compression, or a lack thereof. I don't have the tools to check properly, so the only thing to do at the present seems to be the ATF in the rotors to address that issue.

After the second de-flood procedure there were definitely a couple of pops immediately upon cranking it, but that was all. I've seen some posts recommending repeating the process up to six times. At what point should I call it quits and get an actual compression test done?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

If you disconnect the coil wires and take the spark plugs out,you should be able to determine if the engine is getting fuel.It will Mist fuel out of the spark plug holes when you roll it over.
The ATF trick is a little bit "tricky" as sometimes too much ATF is used and it Fouls the **** out of the plugs.
IF you do a Real GOOD deflood with EGI Fuse out rolling the engine over 30 seconds,put in a NEW or CLEAN set of plugs in,EGI back ,then by rights the engine should start up.
That is IF everything is now operational on the engine.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

By the way if you have done the ATF ONCE,I would just be concentrating on clearing gas out,and NOT put any more ATF in.