FC S4 NA Changed Alternator Now Won't Start
#104
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The ignition switch is a conduit that takes constant voltage from the Battery via a Black wire and passes it on to the B/W wire w/key to on. If the Black wire has its proper voltage then it should properly be passed to the B/W w/key to on and w/a working ignition switch. If the Black wire does not have voltage then you need to focus on the Engine fuse box by checking the Black wire going in from battery, does this wire check out. Black wire coming out of fuse box, does it check out. If it's good going in but not out then check the Main fuse.
#105
Couple of Dings...
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The ignition switch is a conduit that takes constant voltage from the Battery via a Black wire and passes it on to the B/W wire w/key to on. If the Black wire has its proper voltage then it should properly be passed to the B/W w/key to on and w/a working ignition switch. If the Black wire does not have voltage then you need to focus on the Engine fuse box by checking the Black wire going in from battery, does this wire check out. Black wire coming out of fuse box, does it check out. If it's good going in but not out then check the Main fuse.
Ignition: Black Wire has battery voltage and B/W has battery voltage w/Key On.
Open Circiut Relay: B/W has battery voltage w/Key on at Open Circiut Relay connector, not plugged into yellow and black box, and blue wire for fuel pump, same connector (not plugged into yellow and black box) bounces from 4-6 volts with key at Start.
Open Circiut Relay: Plugged into yellow and black box readings: B/W wire key on has battery voltage and blue wire is all over the place at key on...at key start is goes to little over 7 volts.
At key start the fuel pump is not running, will run with 12volts direct.
Still not getting spark. All fuses are checking out good.
#107
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If the Green diagnostic plug w/the B/W wire only has two volts then the causes are as follows but all of of this has already been covered before. That B/W wire doesn't just come out of nowhere as it comes from the Main Relay (remember the four wire plug at this relay). The B/W wire is fed by the White/Blue wire in the very same plug that is "always" supposed to have 12 volts to it. Right? When the plugs are connected to the relay and the key is turned to on then that is when the voltage goes from W/L to B/W. So if W/L wire checks out having constant 12 volts then the problem occurs at the relay or before it. Remember, the Black wire providing voltage to the ignition switch on a constant basis will pass voltage on to the B/W wire in the same two wire ignition switch plug along the steering column when the key is turned to on or start. When this B/W wire becomes energized it connects to the fuse box and powers up a group of uses w/the Engine fuse being one of them. This fuse has to receive power on one end and send it out on the other end which is a B/W wire also and this wire goes to the Main relay 2 wire plug. This allows the relay to close and the voltage jumps from W/L to B/W. It is now incumbent upon you to find out why this is not occuring. You've been given the proper info in spades so now it's your turn to fill in the blank.
#108
Couple of Dings...
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OK - Thanks again for the help. Main Relay was not closing, popped the cover off, manually closed the points and it fired right up. Kinda feel like an idiot not popping the cover off before...found another main relay (for free) that wouldn't close either...so I am going to pony up the dough for a new one.
Have to ask
Would anything else stop the main relay from closing?
All voltage checked out 100% correct when I manually closed the main relay points.
Actually, it idled better than it has in a while
Have to ask
Would anything else stop the main relay from closing?
All voltage checked out 100% correct when I manually closed the main relay points.
Actually, it idled better than it has in a while
#109
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OK - Thanks again for the help. Main Relay was not closing, popped the cover off, manually closed the points and it fired right up. Kinda feel like an idiot not popping the cover off before...found another main relay (for free) that wouldn't close either...so I am going to pony up the dough for a new one.
Have to ask
Would anything else stop the main relay from closing?
All voltage checked out 100% correct when I manually closed the main relay points.
Actually, it idled better than it has in a while
Have to ask
Would anything else stop the main relay from closing?
All voltage checked out 100% correct when I manually closed the main relay points.
Actually, it idled better than it has in a while
#110
Couple of Dings...
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That relay has two relays in it so it depends on if both contacts aren't working or just one is. Besides the B/W wire in the 4 wire plug the B/Y wire also receives voltage when one of the relays closes. If the B/Y wire has proper voltage w/key to on then that part of the relay must be working properly. If that were the case then the fault is solely in the relay itself, as in one of the two relay contacts is damaged. If both relays on the other hand are not working then it's either the relay or the B/W wire to it in the 2 wire plug is not powering it up properly or the Black wire in the same plug is not providing the proper ground required.
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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07-01-23 04:40 PM