When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys I'd love some advice but first I'll give you some back story. On my N/a I did an oil change (previous oil only had like 700 miles on it but sat for probably 15 months from previous owner 20/50 valvoline) when I drained old oil, it was definitely darker in than preferred so I let it drain for a half hour then put in castrol gtx 20/50 4.5 quarts. It set me just over the F on the dipstick, I though that letting it warm up would drop it down to the sweet spot. When I took it for a short spin around the block I noticed my oil pressure guage go over 110 (dummies guage so not sure of accurate number). Which my pump is 110. Seeing this I slowly brought it home to check oil level. Still over the F so I drained some oil out about a half quart and I noticed that the oil was also black and possibly some fuel mixed in but deffiently DARK. I can upload pictures later after work. Did I blow some type of seal? My plan of action today will to be re-drain the oil and put in 4 quarts and then empty it again after a test drive to see what it looks like when I re drain it to confirm. I don't care about the money spent on oil to be wasted, it's worth the peace of mind. And help would be amazing and if you need any additional info to help me out just ask!!!! Also I'm sure it makes some difference but I have a larger oil cooler so maybe that didn't drain entirely mixing the old dark oil contaminate my new making it look bad? Would love some feed back! Also on a side note I know I need a new battery will buy one today. Had to crank it for about 8 seconds for 4 try's, not sure if that's enough to turn the oil as dark as it was lol -Tyler
Just a guess but I would think a large capacity oil cooler is the culprit for the dark oil unless you were able to drain the oil cooler it would be hard to get all of it out of the lines and cooler, nice looking engine bay btw
thats what I was considering to be the issue. I just drained from the pan and I kinda figured that gravity would get a large majority of it out from the oil cooler. When I took it for a spin around the block to warm it up it had no power loss of the sort so I'm guessing the motor is fine, well I hope so lol right after work I'm swapping the battery then draining oil, put new oil in, then drive it for a hour and re drain it. If it's still as dark as previous removed oil then I know I have some type of problem. I get the feeling the motor is just fine though because I have zero power loss that I know of. Will confirm after test drive today after oil swap 👍🏽
Were you told any history on the car? If the engine has been cracked open its possible the oil.......thing has been shimmed inside the block (hell if i can remember what its called) and that will make your oil pressure shoot up
Were you told any history on the car? If the engine has been cracked open its possible the oil.......thing has been shimmed inside the block (hell if i can remember what its called) and that will make your oil pressure shoot up
Hehe, oil pressure regulator. Yeah if it's been shimmed pressure would be higher.....common mod but usually on higher horsepower vehicles usually coupled with larger oil jets fitted to the eccentric shaft. What was your oil pressure reading before the change?
Ps. Definitely drain the cooler too as you'll be surprised how much oil actually stays in there. I don't think you've blown a seal. If you did your oil level would drop or you'll blow out smoke or both.
I was told it was never opened,its an upgraded 13b that Mazda made for Mercury boats in Japan (what I was told) but It came with all the water cooling tubes, dyno sheets, brochure, and original paperwork from early 90's lol. seals on the housing looks to be a factory seal.I pulled it out of the storage unit I bought it from, it sat in it for 15 months not a single drop of any type of fluid was on the ground. When I emptied the last oil that was dark and in the car already I only pulled out 3.5 quarts so I'm thinking the extra .5-.8 quarts mixed in with the new oil I put in and that's what made it so dark. Can't wait to get off work to figure this out its killing me Lol
Hehe, oil pressure regulator. Yeah if it's been shimmed pressure would be higher.....common mod but usually on higher horsepower vehicles usually coupled with larger oil jets fitted to the eccentric shaft. What was your oil pressure reading before the change?
Ps. Definitely drain the cooler too as you'll be surprised how much oil actually stays in there. I don't think you've blown a seal. If you did your oil level would drop or you'll blow out smoke or both.
No smoke or low pressure it idles around 60 then right on 110 in high rpms normally. After I did the oil change that's when it spiked. Also I will definitely drain it today, not familiar with how much my oil cooler capacity is, I think that's what's throwing me off.
Hey guys I'd love some advice but first I'll give you some back story. On my N/a I did an oil change (previous oil only had like 700 miles on it but sat for probably 15 months from previous owner 20/50 valvoline) when I drained old oil, it was definitely darker in than preferred so I let it drain for a half hour then put in castrol gtx 20/50 4.5 quarts. It set me just over the F on the dipstick, I though that letting it warm up would drop it down to the sweet spot. When I took it for a short spin around the block I noticed my oil pressure guage go over 110 (dummies guage so not sure of accurate number). Which my pump is 110. Seeing this I slowly brought it home to check oil level. Still over the F so I drained some oil out about a half quart and I noticed that the oil was also black and possibly some fuel mixed in but deffiently DARK. I can upload pictures later after work. Did I blow some type of seal? My plan of action today will to be re-drain the oil and put in 4 quarts and then empty it again after a test drive to see what it looks like when I re drain it to confirm. I don't care about the money spent on oil to be wasted, it's worth the peace of mind. And help would be amazing and if you need any additional info to help me out just ask!!!! Also I'm sure it makes some difference but I have a larger oil cooler so maybe that didn't drain entirely mixing the old dark oil contaminate my new making it look bad? Would love some feed back! Also on a side note I know I need a new battery will buy one today. Had to crank it for about 8 seconds for 4 try's, not sure if that's enough to turn the oil as dark as it was lol -Tyler
This is entirely normal IMO.
* Dirty (looking) oil right after a change. Typical because a small amount of old oil is always stranded in the eshaft, rotors, oil cooler(s) and associated lines.
* Fuel smell in oil (fuel dilution) is common to some extent but can be aggravated by hard seal wear, weak seal springs, side plate wear, or by porting. If the engine has sat it may improve a little as you drive it, but it's a reason oil change intervals should be a little shorter on a rotary.
* High indicated oil pressure... 20w 50 is pretty stiff. Do you know what viscosity rating was of the old oil? The contrast of the two, combined with the fact that the new oil was fresh and not yet hot may explain what seems to be high pressure. Regardless... Not sure on the earlier models but 110 is high normal on a 3rd gen with fresh, cold 15w 50 at a ything above idle rpm.
This is entirely normal IMO.
* Dirty (looking) oil right after a change. Typical because a small amount of old oil is always stranded in the eshaft, rotors, oil cooler(s) and associated lines.
* Fuel smell in oil (fuel dilution) is common to some extent but can be aggravated by hard seal wear or by porting. If the engine has sat it may improve a little as you drive it, but it's a reason oil change intervals should be a little shorter on a rotary.
* High indicated oil pressure...what viscosity was the oil you put in? Do you know what viscosity rating was of the old oil? The contrast of the two, combined with the fact that the new oil was fresh and not yet hot may explain what seems to be high pressure. Regardless... Not sure on the earlier models but 110 is high normal on a 3rd gen with fresh, cold 15w 50.
Glad to hear about the oil looking dirty is somewhat normal, at first glance it really concerned me. And the high oil pressure is due to me putting in a little to much oil I believe because it started when I did the oil change I put in 4.5q thinking I had let it drain enough to put as much as I did in but if the old oil was in the oil cooler that makes sense. Previous owner used valvoline racing oil 20/50 so I put in castrol gtx 20/50 I live in northern Illinois and only drive in the summer temps ranging from 70-90's depending, other than that it will be garage kept when cold. I think I will still drain this oil currently in it and do 1 more change of oil and only put in 4q to start and make sure not to exceed the F on the dipstick like I previously did by a half quart. I hope the oil pressure was high due to the extra half quart I put in.
Don't think oil pressure is affected if it's overfilled. The pickup and pump will only move so much at a given rpm. Viscosity rating, temp, state of dilution...if any, and rpm are the major variables.
so I didn't change the oil I left what was in there I put a new 770 battery and it still took 2 try's 5-8 seconds each to start and it's been in the low 90's today so I'm going to process of elimination it and get a new starter before I get technical. When I opened the oil cap stuck my noise in it and definelty smells of fuel, stronger then I would even consider close to normal. Still a little high on oil pressure too, again going off the stock guage so can't get an accurate number. I really need accurate guages to see where I'm at. Is it almost time to consider seal failure? Literally had ZERO issues until I changed the oil, that I know of, and yes I do know how to do oil changes and have a very solid foundation for auto mechanics, just always had 4g63's/6g72s, rotary is a new thought process for me.
Changed the oil seems nice and clean. Going to buy a guage for oil pressure before I drive it for safety but all of them top out at 100 psi lol mine is set for 110 and I'm dyno set at 198hp and its conservative so should I get a less psi pump or just stick with what I have? The previous owner wanted my car to be a "performance car" in his words I'm extend ported and high end spark plugs with a rigged 4 barrel Nikki carb ported. So is it necessary for me to have the 110 oil pump? Or is it overboard? Again thank you so much for the responses I'm really happy I am on this forum.
I would not be worried about the oil pressure exceeding 100 psi my 87 Sport operated at +90 psi for years, most conventional engines do not see oil pressure exceeding 80 psi under normal operating temperatures therefore most gauges stop at 100 psi but even Summit carries numerous gauges over 100 psi just have to search a little bit
07-06-16, 07:40 AM
