immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

i just built and broke in my engine, im running stock injectors, aeromotive fuel pump, garret .60 trim cold and stock s5 hot, street ported,
car runs fine im doing some pulls in boost but finding it hard to tune by my self now. aside from doing data logs and manually tuning i figured i could use aft tables with tuner studio and run ve analysis and correct my aft this way what do you guys think? see table please feel free to edit mine, (i up loaded some one elses and adjusted some thats y rpm numbers are allover the place not sure how to fix this ) thanks

dillrx7

iTrader: (3)

The auto tune feature isnt awesome for boost, i have my roomate in the passenger seat after one pull he will rich or lean the values needed, the auto tune relies on too many things to work properly, id suggest biting the bullet and getting it tuned on the dyno.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

ya i was thinking i could find and old etest dyno and rent the bay out for a sat after noon, ok cool thanks

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If you are going to autotune in boost, then the safest strategy is to use autotune to generate a smooth table which is safely rich. Then once you have as smooth table that the car can drive through, though not necessarily the most idea AFRs, manually scale that portion of the table to your desired AFR.

I've attached a modified version of your table that is a good start for autotune targets both in and out of boost. It's a good place to start which should result in a drivable car. I'd suggest going at it in stages. Setting autotune to work with the table from 40 - 90 KPA from 2000 - 8000 RPM. Then drive as much as possible within that region while the table is correct. Hit every cell.

Then once you have a drivable vehicle in light load, then set autotune to 100 KPA - 200 KPA (or whatever) with a far less aggressive correction. You can also set safeguards for each autotune session to limit the amount of correction done. That's the best way do approach autotune in boost.

Once you have a drivable boost tune, highlight that area of the map and scale it down 5% or so, then datalog another careful run. You should be able to see how much scaling is necessary to bring the AFR targets down to your goal. Be mindful of the area around 100KPA. Very easy to make that lean.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

thanks Aaron il have a look at advise on progress as of now, car is pulling hard ive hit 130kpa ish(4-5 psig) and drives great, i did not think of hitting each cell.. thats a good point.
not sure il tune to the 20psi i want car seems fast as is.... could be the second kid making me thing about things lol

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

20 PSI is well past the point of sanity and reliability on the street anyway, so you'd only be tuning the map in the parts your setup will actually use.

That turbo doesn't really come on song until about 15 PSI.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

even as a hybrid with gm boost controller? eh. interesting, i have the boost controller disabled atm, tuning is going great with this setup hitting 5+psi with no problems now added ppl in the car to find un tuned bins lol

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

With any sort of hybrid the turbine housing becomes the limitation. The compressor might be capable of moving 20 PSI (though not into a 13B) but the pre-turbine back pressure will skyrocket.

Personally I'm not a fan of hybrids. Boost control and regulation on them is always difficult.

Though you'll be pleasantly surprised around 15 PSI.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

so thats Y im seeing such high intake temp? i think i used to get ambiant temps with the stock turbo using volvo 3" FMIC?
seams like i might be the few times ive hit any thing close to that i was loving it!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What's your intecooler setup?

Where is your IAT?

What's "high"?

Pre-turbine means between the engine and turbine. At higher airflows from a larger compressor the stock turbine starts to be a cork.