How to install keyless entry in an FD guide
#1
Money Pit
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How to install keyless entry in an FD guide
After reading other threads I decided to write up a comprehensive how-to on installing keyless entry into an FD.
Reference Threads
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...ght=FD+keyless
Most of the information came from DCrosby and other posts by Katit thus I felt it was useful to compile all of this information into a comprehensive guide.
The overall task is relatively simple but I think for the people out there are not sure about doing it themselves below is a comprehensive guide on how to get it done quicky and inexpensively.
It should not take more than 4 hours and if you know what your doing it should take less than 2 hours including testing etc.
First step - order the parts you need (see the thread above)
Part List
1x Actuator
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-010
Courtesy of DCrosby
2x Relays (www.partsexpress.com)
1x Viper-571XV Keyless entry and remote start system
http://www.amazon.com/VIPER-571XV-Re...68359&sr =8-1
Courtesy of Katit
Tools List
1x Digital Multimeter (DMM)
3x 45ft reels of 18 gauge automotive wire (each reel should be a different color for reference)
1x Wire stripper/cutter
1x Phillips head screwdriver
1x Flat head screwdriver
1x roll black electrical tap
1x box of relay connectors (male-female)
1x box of cable connectors (male-female)
Instructions
1. Remove driver's side passenger door
2. Identify a good ground wire location (I picked a bolt directly above the bose speaker and simply screwed ground calbe into it)
3. Cut the ground wire to approximately 6-12inchs depending on where you want to run your relay(s).
4. Remove driver side kick panel
5. Run power line from the door lock fuse (15A) and the green and blue cable from the Viper (+- door unlock) through hinge and out to the door. If you can use the door grommet then use that as it makes the job look tidy but the door groomet is a nightmare to work with so be warned.
6. Option - disarm wire (light green and black from Viper) (you can either wire this directly to CPU2 light green/black cable in the drivers kick panel OR you can wire it through the door - see picture at the bottom of this thread for location details)
7. All wires should be wrapped together in black electrical tape for protection and it also keeps everything nice and tidy.
8. Split power wire coming from the door lock fuse so that the Viper can be driven from it as well (it may be possible to get power from the door but I did not find anything reliable)
9. The viper can live in several different locations, the two locations I felt were the most versatile were under the drivers seat which is a tight squeeze OR in the storage bin which will require some engineering but is a much more elegant solution.
10. Wire up the two relays to the actuator by following these instructions:
11. Green wire should drive one relay and blue the other. The viper does not generate more than 400ma from the green and blue lock/unlock wires. This is not enough to drive the actuator properly thus the reason why you need two relays.
12. See the relay photo for pin out instructions.
Purple crosses = ground wire to the door (I looped them together and then ran one wire to the door and the other relay)
Red Cross = 12V DC wire running from fuse inside car
Blue Cross = output from Viper so the green wire for one relay and the blue from the other.
White Cross = output wire to the actuator.
Relay pinout
30 = Actuator
87a = ground
86 = ground
87 = 12V DC
85 = Green/Blue wire from Viper
One relay will have green for pin 85 and the other will have blue for pin 85
87a and 30 are naturally closed so when the relay is activated by running a current across the coil (85->86) then the circuit closes between 30 and 87 which is naturally open.
The relay will switch on and effectively create a momentary circuit with the 12VDC when either the lock or unlock button is pressed on the viper. This will then drive the actuator open or closed.
13. Once you have wired up both relays test the output using the lock/unlock function
14. Next wire up the disarm wire if you haven't already.
15. The attached photo shows the 'physical key' lock function cable. By sending a 12V pulse the alarm will be disarmed effectively. I think I have high-lighted the correct cable - double check the color - it should be light green and black. To test simply connect the disarm wire from the viper and piggy back it onto the socket and press the unlock function. The security light in the console should light up if you have plugged it into the correct wire.
16. Splice out the wire accordingly.
17. Once you have everything tested and working it's time to hook up the actuator.
There are several threads with photos on different ways to mount the actuator.
I would recommend mounting the actuator beneath the door lock so that you have plenty of play else you may run into issues with the power window switches etc.
18. Mount relays accordingly (make sure you use the proper relay connection plugs)
19. Once everything is connected up, test to make sure you have the actuator wires around the correct way by testing the lock/unlock function.
20. Put everything back together
21. Test lock once everything is done.
22. Troubleshooting - if you run into any problems at all, use your DMM to verify voltages and current. If the actuator is not being driven properly then you may have a poor ground or power connection (when driven properly it should see over 4amps from the battery).
Relays will also make a diffinitive snap when activated properly through the coil.
PM if you have any questions at all.
Reference Threads
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...ght=FD+keyless
Most of the information came from DCrosby and other posts by Katit thus I felt it was useful to compile all of this information into a comprehensive guide.
The overall task is relatively simple but I think for the people out there are not sure about doing it themselves below is a comprehensive guide on how to get it done quicky and inexpensively.
It should not take more than 4 hours and if you know what your doing it should take less than 2 hours including testing etc.
First step - order the parts you need (see the thread above)
Part List
1x Actuator
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-010
Courtesy of DCrosby
2x Relays (www.partsexpress.com)
1x Viper-571XV Keyless entry and remote start system
http://www.amazon.com/VIPER-571XV-Re...68359&sr =8-1
Courtesy of Katit
Tools List
1x Digital Multimeter (DMM)
3x 45ft reels of 18 gauge automotive wire (each reel should be a different color for reference)
1x Wire stripper/cutter
1x Phillips head screwdriver
1x Flat head screwdriver
1x roll black electrical tap
1x box of relay connectors (male-female)
1x box of cable connectors (male-female)
Instructions
1. Remove driver's side passenger door
2. Identify a good ground wire location (I picked a bolt directly above the bose speaker and simply screwed ground calbe into it)
3. Cut the ground wire to approximately 6-12inchs depending on where you want to run your relay(s).
4. Remove driver side kick panel
5. Run power line from the door lock fuse (15A) and the green and blue cable from the Viper (+- door unlock) through hinge and out to the door. If you can use the door grommet then use that as it makes the job look tidy but the door groomet is a nightmare to work with so be warned.
6. Option - disarm wire (light green and black from Viper) (you can either wire this directly to CPU2 light green/black cable in the drivers kick panel OR you can wire it through the door - see picture at the bottom of this thread for location details)
7. All wires should be wrapped together in black electrical tape for protection and it also keeps everything nice and tidy.
8. Split power wire coming from the door lock fuse so that the Viper can be driven from it as well (it may be possible to get power from the door but I did not find anything reliable)
9. The viper can live in several different locations, the two locations I felt were the most versatile were under the drivers seat which is a tight squeeze OR in the storage bin which will require some engineering but is a much more elegant solution.
10. Wire up the two relays to the actuator by following these instructions:
11. Green wire should drive one relay and blue the other. The viper does not generate more than 400ma from the green and blue lock/unlock wires. This is not enough to drive the actuator properly thus the reason why you need two relays.
12. See the relay photo for pin out instructions.
Purple crosses = ground wire to the door (I looped them together and then ran one wire to the door and the other relay)
Red Cross = 12V DC wire running from fuse inside car
Blue Cross = output from Viper so the green wire for one relay and the blue from the other.
White Cross = output wire to the actuator.
Relay pinout
30 = Actuator
87a = ground
86 = ground
87 = 12V DC
85 = Green/Blue wire from Viper
One relay will have green for pin 85 and the other will have blue for pin 85
87a and 30 are naturally closed so when the relay is activated by running a current across the coil (85->86) then the circuit closes between 30 and 87 which is naturally open.
The relay will switch on and effectively create a momentary circuit with the 12VDC when either the lock or unlock button is pressed on the viper. This will then drive the actuator open or closed.
13. Once you have wired up both relays test the output using the lock/unlock function
14. Next wire up the disarm wire if you haven't already.
15. The attached photo shows the 'physical key' lock function cable. By sending a 12V pulse the alarm will be disarmed effectively. I think I have high-lighted the correct cable - double check the color - it should be light green and black. To test simply connect the disarm wire from the viper and piggy back it onto the socket and press the unlock function. The security light in the console should light up if you have plugged it into the correct wire.
16. Splice out the wire accordingly.
17. Once you have everything tested and working it's time to hook up the actuator.
There are several threads with photos on different ways to mount the actuator.
I would recommend mounting the actuator beneath the door lock so that you have plenty of play else you may run into issues with the power window switches etc.
18. Mount relays accordingly (make sure you use the proper relay connection plugs)
19. Once everything is connected up, test to make sure you have the actuator wires around the correct way by testing the lock/unlock function.
20. Put everything back together
21. Test lock once everything is done.
22. Troubleshooting - if you run into any problems at all, use your DMM to verify voltages and current. If the actuator is not being driven properly then you may have a poor ground or power connection (when driven properly it should see over 4amps from the battery).
Relays will also make a diffinitive snap when activated properly through the coil.
PM if you have any questions at all.
#3
LS Powered
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http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-075
^Part Number: 330-075 for the relays.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=32430434
^Part Number: 330-010 for the actuator.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...5653101&sr=8-1
^The Viper setup from toolguru52 -- ships fast and all new in box..
^Part Number: 330-075 for the relays.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=32430434
^Part Number: 330-010 for the actuator.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...5653101&sr=8-1
^The Viper setup from toolguru52 -- ships fast and all new in box..
#6
Money Pit
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I just checked the thread to see if anybody had questions and I saw MyRedFD's post and pissed myself laughing.
Good catch mate! Also thanks Neoamd for stepping in posting the fixed links.
Thanks,
Good catch mate! Also thanks Neoamd for stepping in posting the fixed links.
Thanks,
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#8
Fear the 7
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would have been nice to let the installers at best buy know that here in va, my previous fd was taken there to get keyless entry and they broke the lock assembly twice and had to replace it twice also and best buy had to give me money for all of it so that i wouldnt sue
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