2nd fiberglass hood
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2nd fiberglass hood
Ok, here is the second hood out of the mold. everything came out great!!! I am using metric weld in nuts on the brackets so the stock bolts work in my hoods. The final weight is 13.5 lbs.
Again, these are not ready to bolt on as far as being finished. These are gray gelcoat in color, they will need to be primed and painted. In some cases there may be a small air bubble that might need filled with bondo and when I mean small I mean about half the size of an eraser or so.
Anyway, here are a couple pics.
Again, these are not ready to bolt on as far as being finished. These are gray gelcoat in color, they will need to be primed and painted. In some cases there may be a small air bubble that might need filled with bondo and when I mean small I mean about half the size of an eraser or so.
Anyway, here are a couple pics.
#4
Driven a turbo FB lately?
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Originally posted by 1st7heaven
And another.....someone tell me how to actually post the pics. so all 3 are on one post?????
And another.....someone tell me how to actually post the pics. so all 3 are on one post?????
Hood looks pretty good, and at 13 pounds thats a shitload lighter!
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Theres a pic. of the back side. Right now you have to use hood pins...no latch. I will be working on the scoop. $250 as it is, probably add $50-$75 for a scoop, not sure about the latch yet...I havent thought about how to do it yet? It will cost somewhere around $30 to crate it and not sure about shipping yet. I will have to get the 1st one crated and get a quote on shipping.
Not sure what the stock hood is...anyone know? I am guessing around 20-25lbs. One of the RX7.COM cars(all motor, 1st gen, yellow jobby) has an aftermarket steel one on it and it weight 45lbs.!!!
Not sure what the stock hood is...anyone know? I am guessing around 20-25lbs. One of the RX7.COM cars(all motor, 1st gen, yellow jobby) has an aftermarket steel one on it and it weight 45lbs.!!!
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Originally posted by 1st7heaven
Theres a pic. of the back side. Right now you have to use hood pins...no latch. I will be working on the scoop. $250 as it is, probably add $50-$75 for a scoop, not sure about the latch yet...I havent thought about how to do it yet? It will cost somewhere around $30 to crate it and not sure about shipping yet. I will have to get the 1st one crated and get a quote on shipping.
Not sure what the stock hood is...anyone know? I am guessing around 20-25lbs. One of the RX7.COM cars(all motor, 1st gen, yellow jobby) has an aftermarket steel one on it and it weight 45lbs.!!!
Theres a pic. of the back side. Right now you have to use hood pins...no latch. I will be working on the scoop. $250 as it is, probably add $50-$75 for a scoop, not sure about the latch yet...I havent thought about how to do it yet? It will cost somewhere around $30 to crate it and not sure about shipping yet. I will have to get the 1st one crated and get a quote on shipping.
Not sure what the stock hood is...anyone know? I am guessing around 20-25lbs. One of the RX7.COM cars(all motor, 1st gen, yellow jobby) has an aftermarket steel one on it and it weight 45lbs.!!!
Bolt-in and scooped will set you up different than Japco's hoodpinned hood, however. That would definately be worth it. :-)
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I have seen Japcos and I am definatly not way too high. I have been in a fb with a Japco hood and thought the hood was going to cave in in the middle while going down the highway!! Also, the thing was just flapping all over the place....I think it was too thin for the street! I think Japcos are great for racing! If it is too expensive...dont buy it...those that want it, I welcome you.
Mine uses the factory hing mounts, may need to be shimmed on diff. cars, and does not have a latch for the factory latch.....you have to use pins.
Mine uses the factory hing mounts, may need to be shimmed on diff. cars, and does not have a latch for the factory latch.....you have to use pins.
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Way too thin? I have to disagree with you on that. I've had one. It weighs 12 lbs - about the same as yours. Since you are using bolts, my guess is that both are about the same standard thickness. It's braced on the underside like yours is and the finish on the top was excellent.
Pic of underside (poor quality) - http://63.77.158.90/bodykit/Image85.jpg
All I'm saying is don't bother making something that people already have access to. Make it way better - like a bolt-in. :-) The stock aluminum TII hoods rivit in a metal latch, could you fiberglass in a front loop possibly?
Also, don't worry about the weight too much - who cares if it weighs a little more, but has a scoop and is a stock replacement - that would kick any companies ***.
Next, we'll have to convince you to make front airdams .....
In short, I would be love to see you make full latching hood, but I could live with front hoodpins. Just do something that will set the hood off from a stock hood. I'd buy it. :-) I'm sure others will also.
Pic of underside (poor quality) - http://63.77.158.90/bodykit/Image85.jpg
All I'm saying is don't bother making something that people already have access to. Make it way better - like a bolt-in. :-) The stock aluminum TII hoods rivit in a metal latch, could you fiberglass in a front loop possibly?
Also, don't worry about the weight too much - who cares if it weighs a little more, but has a scoop and is a stock replacement - that would kick any companies ***.
Next, we'll have to convince you to make front airdams .....
In short, I would be love to see you make full latching hood, but I could live with front hoodpins. Just do something that will set the hood off from a stock hood. I'd buy it. :-) I'm sure others will also.
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Well, I first used structural foam ribs on the first one but the foam soaked up too much resin and added weight. This one we used PVC and it worked great...light weight, easy to work with, and strong once it is laminated with glass and resin.
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Originally posted by 1st7heaven
Well, I first used structural foam ribs on the first one but the foam soaked up too much resin and added weight. This one we used PVC and it worked great...light weight, easy to work with, and strong once it is laminated with glass and resin.
Well, I first used structural foam ribs on the first one but the foam soaked up too much resin and added weight. This one we used PVC and it worked great...light weight, easy to work with, and strong once it is laminated with glass and resin.
Just a suggestion.
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I started making this hood for my purposes only....racing...so weight is a huge deal for me.
I decided to make them for others and figured If I could make cf units that would go well. I will hold to my prices just because I know the hours it takes to make them.
I will work on trying to put a latch on it. If I could get the latches somehow it would make it easier. Can someone send me that latch???
Thanks for the input....this is really helping me out!!! Sorry if I sound grumpy....rough end of the week
I decided to make them for others and figured If I could make cf units that would go well. I will hold to my prices just because I know the hours it takes to make them.
I will work on trying to put a latch on it. If I could get the latches somehow it would make it easier. Can someone send me that latch???
Thanks for the input....this is really helping me out!!! Sorry if I sound grumpy....rough end of the week
Last edited by 1st7heaven; 08-22-02 at 10:41 AM.
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tough to align something as seemingly simple as a latch. DeLorean Motor Cars had a heck of a time getting the door latches of their prototype to close properly - a few millimeters misaligned and a latch won't close, or will close then jam shut.
#18
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the other problem is the latch area will need to be pretty strong also...
Hoodpins in the back work for me... I'm going to have to start carrying around a board to hold this open though, aren't I...
Hoodpins in the back work for me... I'm going to have to start carrying around a board to hold this open though, aren't I...
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rx7gsl-se, I can't believe I overlooked that! yeah, there'd hafta be a mounting point for the hood proprod or the new shock method of propping open a hood, similar to the rear hatch.
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Your on it!!! I will see what I can do. Anyone interested the way it is???? I need to generate some cashola to help off set materials and labor. $900 for a 55gal drum of resin!!! I am broke almost If not, I will get these out, it will just take a little time.
I am out for the day see yall! Have a good one!
I am out for the day see yall! Have a good one!