1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

2nd fiberglass hood

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Old 08-22-02, 09:37 AM
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2nd fiberglass hood

Ok, here is the second hood out of the mold. everything came out great!!! I am using metric weld in nuts on the brackets so the stock bolts work in my hoods. The final weight is 13.5 lbs.

Again, these are not ready to bolt on as far as being finished. These are gray gelcoat in color, they will need to be primed and painted. In some cases there may be a small air bubble that might need filled with bondo and when I mean small I mean about half the size of an eraser or so.

Anyway, here are a couple pics.
Old 08-22-02, 09:39 AM
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Old 08-22-02, 09:40 AM
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And another.....someone tell me how to actually post the pics. so all 3 are on one post?????
Old 08-22-02, 09:44 AM
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Originally posted by 1st7heaven
And another.....someone tell me how to actually post the pics. so all 3 are on one post?????
You have to link the pics to a picture server.. Use the IMG format..

Hood looks pretty good, and at 13 pounds thats a shitload lighter!
Old 08-22-02, 09:45 AM
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Price you will be asking like it is?

Price you will be asking with reverse scoop? :-)

Last edited by David88vert; 08-22-02 at 09:47 AM.
Old 08-22-02, 09:46 AM
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there ya go!! They look sweet!!!! How much does the stock hood weigh in at?
Old 08-22-02, 09:49 AM
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Theres a pic. of the back side. Right now you have to use hood pins...no latch. I will be working on the scoop. $250 as it is, probably add $50-$75 for a scoop, not sure about the latch yet...I havent thought about how to do it yet? It will cost somewhere around $30 to crate it and not sure about shipping yet. I will have to get the 1st one crated and get a quote on shipping.

Not sure what the stock hood is...anyone know? I am guessing around 20-25lbs. One of the RX7.COM cars(all motor, 1st gen, yellow jobby) has an aftermarket steel one on it and it weight 45lbs.!!!
Old 08-22-02, 09:55 AM
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Originally posted by 1st7heaven
Theres a pic. of the back side. Right now you have to use hood pins...no latch. I will be working on the scoop. $250 as it is, probably add $50-$75 for a scoop, not sure about the latch yet...I havent thought about how to do it yet? It will cost somewhere around $30 to crate it and not sure about shipping yet. I will have to get the 1st one crated and get a quote on shipping.

Not sure what the stock hood is...anyone know? I am guessing around 20-25lbs. One of the RX7.COM cars(all motor, 1st gen, yellow jobby) has an aftermarket steel one on it and it weight 45lbs.!!!
$250 is bolt-on, right? Working with stock hood latch and stock brackets, right? Otherwise, you will be way too expensive. The Japco fiberglass hood is almost identical and runs $130. For shipping, he airmails most of the hoods. Flying it into ATL was $40. Air ships by weight, trucks ship by size (generally).

Bolt-in and scooped will set you up different than Japco's hoodpinned hood, however. That would definately be worth it. :-)
Old 08-22-02, 10:02 AM
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I have seen Japcos and I am definatly not way too high. I have been in a fb with a Japco hood and thought the hood was going to cave in in the middle while going down the highway!! Also, the thing was just flapping all over the place....I think it was too thin for the street! I think Japcos are great for racing! If it is too expensive...dont buy it...those that want it, I welcome you.

Mine uses the factory hing mounts, may need to be shimmed on diff. cars, and does not have a latch for the factory latch.....you have to use pins.
Old 08-22-02, 10:15 AM
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What sort of reinforcement material is that? The underhood bracing, I mean.
Old 08-22-02, 10:18 AM
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Way too thin? I have to disagree with you on that. I've had one. It weighs 12 lbs - about the same as yours. Since you are using bolts, my guess is that both are about the same standard thickness. It's braced on the underside like yours is and the finish on the top was excellent.
Pic of underside (poor quality) - http://63.77.158.90/bodykit/Image85.jpg

All I'm saying is don't bother making something that people already have access to. Make it way better - like a bolt-in. :-) The stock aluminum TII hoods rivit in a metal latch, could you fiberglass in a front loop possibly?
Also, don't worry about the weight too much - who cares if it weighs a little more, but has a scoop and is a stock replacement - that would kick any companies ***.

Next, we'll have to convince you to make front airdams .....

In short, I would be love to see you make full latching hood, but I could live with front hoodpins. Just do something that will set the hood off from a stock hood. I'd buy it. :-) I'm sure others will also.
Old 08-22-02, 10:21 AM
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Well, I first used structural foam ribs on the first one but the foam soaked up too much resin and added weight. This one we used PVC and it worked great...light weight, easy to work with, and strong once it is laminated with glass and resin.
Old 08-22-02, 10:25 AM
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Originally posted by 1st7heaven
Well, I first used structural foam ribs on the first one but the foam soaked up too much resin and added weight. This one we used PVC and it worked great...light weight, easy to work with, and strong once it is laminated with glass and resin.
What about thin pieces of aluminum? 1"x36"x1/8"? I did that with some fiberglass fenders once. Gave it a little more rigidity, for very little weight of cost. Take a look at Home Depot or Lowes in their raw metal section.
Just a suggestion.
Old 08-22-02, 10:37 AM
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I started making this hood for my purposes only....racing...so weight is a huge deal for me.

I decided to make them for others and figured If I could make cf units that would go well. I will hold to my prices just because I know the hours it takes to make them.

I will work on trying to put a latch on it. If I could get the latches somehow it would make it easier. Can someone send me that latch???


Thanks for the input....this is really helping me out!!! Sorry if I sound grumpy....rough end of the week

Last edited by 1st7heaven; 08-22-02 at 10:41 AM.
Old 08-22-02, 10:43 AM
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Go to your local Pick-And-Pull and drill out just the loop from the hood.

Unless there is someone near Plano that would help out here a little...
Old 08-22-02, 10:47 AM
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I will run over to Rotary Performance(RX7.COM) and see if they can get me one!! Thanks again.
Old 08-22-02, 10:50 AM
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tough to align something as seemingly simple as a latch. DeLorean Motor Cars had a heck of a time getting the door latches of their prototype to close properly - a few millimeters misaligned and a latch won't close, or will close then jam shut.
Old 08-22-02, 10:57 AM
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the other problem is the latch area will need to be pretty strong also...

Hoodpins in the back work for me... I'm going to have to start carrying around a board to hold this open though, aren't I...
Old 08-22-02, 10:58 AM
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Thats why I really didnt want to do it. I would spend an hour or 2 trying to line it up then it wont line up on the customers cars.
Old 08-22-02, 11:24 AM
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rx7gsl-se, I can't believe I overlooked that! yeah, there'd hafta be a mounting point for the hood proprod or the new shock method of propping open a hood, similar to the rear hatch.
Old 08-22-02, 11:27 AM
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Anyone know for sure what the stock hood weight is? Anyone?
Old 08-22-02, 11:33 AM
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actually these hoods aren't very hard to line up. i'm not sure if its the reverse close or simple lines.
Old 08-22-02, 12:50 PM
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I may.....no I will work something out for the prop rod. time....time....time..... I never worried about the rod for my own use. Sorry.
Old 08-22-02, 01:04 PM
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I didn't think of a prop rod either, But that could be simple .... Maybe you could just fiberglass on a little clip .... maybe a rubber spacer?
Old 08-22-02, 01:22 PM
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Your on it!!! I will see what I can do. Anyone interested the way it is???? I need to generate some cashola to help off set materials and labor. $900 for a 55gal drum of resin!!! I am broke almost If not, I will get these out, it will just take a little time.


I am out for the day see yall! Have a good one!



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