bnr stage 4 and sport 2000 install.
03-15-12, 06:46 PM
#1
bnr stage 4 and sport 2000 install.
so i had a stock turboes haltech e6x. i decided to scrap both and go for the gusto. instead of pictures and whatnot, i decided to just film it all.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XLj-t1DH9Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIZSVfeQqfM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igAcl461CNE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XLj-t1DH9Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIZSVfeQqfM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igAcl461CNE
03-15-12, 07:19 PM
#2
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you can just use electrical tape to keep the majority of wires together..Use the split loom to cover it up to prevent anything from hitting the run of wire.
I used Copper crush washers and thread locker on my Injector delete bolts.
The injector diffuser?..same as you on that.IF they are real Old,then Ya,I would get rid of that diffuser portion,But if they are new,then use the whole injector diffuser.The newer type injectors atomize fuel pretty good as it is,so the plastic mesh thingie is not real useful when it comes down to it.
I used Copper crush washers and thread locker on my Injector delete bolts.
The injector diffuser?..same as you on that.IF they are real Old,then Ya,I would get rid of that diffuser portion,But if they are new,then use the whole injector diffuser.The newer type injectors atomize fuel pretty good as it is,so the plastic mesh thingie is not real useful when it comes down to it.
03-27-12, 12:22 PM
#5
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looks good! i usually only wrap the harness with a piece of tape every 6" or so at first, and then i'll run the car and make sure everything works, and i don't need to add/remove anything.
once the harness is running problem free, i'll pull it back out, and i have this silicon wrap stuff i use on the high heat areas (you can literally put the harness on the turbo and it won't melt) and sharp corners, places where you have it clamped down, and then i'll usually use the split loom stuff for the rest. using electrical tape for the whole thing ends up being a HUGE mess if you ever have to fix anything.
one thing i've learned from doing a couple honda's is that you could build a bridge out of a mazda harness, they use a TON of clamps and wire ties and stuff to secure the harness. honda doesn't...
once the harness is running problem free, i'll pull it back out, and i have this silicon wrap stuff i use on the high heat areas (you can literally put the harness on the turbo and it won't melt) and sharp corners, places where you have it clamped down, and then i'll usually use the split loom stuff for the rest. using electrical tape for the whole thing ends up being a HUGE mess if you ever have to fix anything.
one thing i've learned from doing a couple honda's is that you could build a bridge out of a mazda harness, they use a TON of clamps and wire ties and stuff to secure the harness. honda doesn't...
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04-01-12, 07:18 PM
#13
i watched the vids... he ditched the E6X. You should also use something else.
The E6 series are simple, but they aren't the best for these cars, and they are pretty dated. I only run my dinosaur E6k because I bought the car that way and everything works for me. I would love to get something more modern, but not worth all that money on such an old car IMO.
The E6 series are simple, but they aren't the best for these cars, and they are pretty dated. I only run my dinosaur E6k because I bought the car that way and everything works for me. I would love to get something more modern, but not worth all that money on such an old car IMO.
04-01-12, 08:12 PM
#15
I have never used it! It is new though. Look on haltechs website. Look at the features and options it has. Does it do what you need? As long as the computer is tuned properly, it will certainly get you your goals.
http://www.haltech.com/index.php/pro...-sprint-500-re
For me personally, I think it needs more. I like idle control, it has none. Many people don't care about that though... However, it only has 2 programmable outputs, which for lack of a better word, sucks! All those fun outputs and you are limited to 2.
http://www.haltech.com/index.php/pro...-sprint-500-re
For me personally, I think it needs more. I like idle control, it has none. Many people don't care about that though... However, it only has 2 programmable outputs, which for lack of a better word, sucks! All those fun outputs and you are limited to 2.
04-01-12, 08:12 PM
#16
sprint RE is amazing. the old e series haltechs arent supported any more and even finding **** for them is damn near impossible, so if you have a hacked up or even an iffy harness, then go for it.
also, YOU CAN NOT USE THE STOCK COILS WITH THIS trigger wheel. im finding this out the hard way. will i go with GM coils? who knows. they seem to be the best alternative to what im trying to do. hm....
also, YOU CAN NOT USE THE STOCK COILS WITH THIS trigger wheel. im finding this out the hard way. will i go with GM coils? who knows. they seem to be the best alternative to what im trying to do. hm....
04-02-12, 10:58 AM
#19
Well, i have formulated a way to get this thing going and i hope i know what im doing with this. heh.
with the FFE kit you need to use direct fire to fire the trailing coils as the fc's dont use that. like i said, some weird togle ****.
im going to modify two ignitors and two rear coils for some hack job wizardry.
with the FFE kit you need to use direct fire to fire the trailing coils as the fc's dont use that. like i said, some weird togle ****.
im going to modify two ignitors and two rear coils for some hack job wizardry.
04-02-12, 11:04 AM
#20
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do the Banzai mod for the trailing coils(you need 2 trailing coils) http://www.banzai-racing.com/FC_coil_install_how-to.htm .That is what I did for the PS1000
04-02-12, 11:42 AM
#21
but how do you wire it up when it comes to the stock harness? i have my ignition patched into the harness where the ecu plugs in. its three wires. do i switch them out or what? ive been told i need to use ignition 3 and 4 instead of ignition 2 and 3. that makes sense
04-02-12, 08:48 PM
#22
well ive figured out this puppy with the help of the FD schematic, FC schematic, and "thewird"'s advice and this page
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...zda_fc_rx7.htm
after following the bonzai instructions to modify the trailing coils, it seems that ign 1 can stay right the hell where it is.
since the FFE is an rx8 trigger wheel, it wants to run in rx8 mode. ign 2 will also want to run a primary coil, but we wont use that as the primaries fire the same time ( unless im wrong? im 100% sure they do) and the rear coils on ign 3 and 4.
well, i just need to hook up ign3 and ign 4 and remove ign2. put ign 3 where ign 2 used to be on the harness of the fc, and then ign 4 where ign3 used to be on the fc harness.
woot. i think i see the light.
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...zda_fc_rx7.htm
after following the bonzai instructions to modify the trailing coils, it seems that ign 1 can stay right the hell where it is.
since the FFE is an rx8 trigger wheel, it wants to run in rx8 mode. ign 2 will also want to run a primary coil, but we wont use that as the primaries fire the same time ( unless im wrong? im 100% sure they do) and the rear coils on ign 3 and 4.
well, i just need to hook up ign3 and ign 4 and remove ign2. put ign 3 where ign 2 used to be on the harness of the fc, and then ign 4 where ign3 used to be on the fc harness.
woot. i think i see the light.
04-02-12, 10:00 PM
#23
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Ya,Thewird had to repin the coil harness on the Trailing side.
Instead of using another pin he just moved it to where it should be.Easier.
(you'd just have to remember what you did and watch out down the line and follow wires if you decided to run the stock fc trailing coil again!)
Instead of using another pin he just moved it to where it should be.Easier.
(you'd just have to remember what you did and watch out down the line and follow wires if you decided to run the stock fc trailing coil again!)