sideways-FC

what map was that you were playing with when you were trying to crank the car over? and I have some bac valves if you need one!

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

The ECU he's using won't run the BAC valve (or any idle valve for that matter). Those things help though IMMENSELY.

sideways-FC

o

sideways-FC

to get your tac back working again you need to reconnect the yellow wire coming from your trailing coils back in to the body harness.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

lol troll.



im planning on using this piece to get my idle back together. hopefully i can save up enough money for that. we shall see. who knows.

the map im using is a base map. the thing is, the old e6x map worked really well and i could start the car hot or cold, but this ecu has a bit of things different so i need to get it to the point where i can ******* feel comfortable driving it on the street.

oh i know this, dont you worry. i dont feel its a priority at this point in time. plus, id rather tap into where the ecu sees the tach signal. i mean, the harness connector is right there anyways. o well. well see how that goes.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

^ You're right... I kept thinking you had the sprint RE in there, not the sport2000... And I have that piece.

It worked PERFECT until recently one day it crapped out on me! I don't know if the valve failed, or the computer failed, but I finally have given up on an idle control valve. It was great while it lasted. 1600RPM idle for cold starts (first 17 seconds), then would drop and hold 1300RPM until the coolant temps hit 140. 1000RPM idle fully warmed up no matter the weather or any loads on the engine.

So now it's back to a little footwork in the regular weather. However the thermowax is still in place, so in the real cold weather my car is OK. I drove it all winter it gave me no issues.

PS
I can sell it to you

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

oh word? why not get a new valve and see if it works?

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

so less timing means bump it up or bump it down?
i took out some fuel in some of he maps, added fuel, yet to no avail would the car start when hot. i have to wait for it to get cold.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Less timing means smaller number Do this in the ignition cranking map.

Try adding a bunch of fuel to the primer map in the hotter, heat soaked temp areas.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

damn son, thanks a ton. i got it started again in the cold. turns out, the map was crazy lean in the primer map through and through. i wish base map builders would at least put it in the ball park, no some 80 MS off the mark. cheepers. i just referenced my old haltech map and was like... HOLY *****!

JOLLY GOOD SHOW!!!, now i can start it.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Yey! Mine is worse... All the "base maps" never worked for me, but I guess each engine is different. My primer map is about 4x the amount of any other primer map, but my car has no trouble starting!

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

whats your transient throttle enrichment settings look like?

reason why i ask is because i have nothing to reference to, so when i see what they gave me with the base map, i dont understand much about adding or removing values.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

You have a newer/much more advanced computer than my old dinosaur and have better features, so mine won't look anything like yours. I think this is what you need to read:
http://files.haltech.com/downloads/p..._throttle.html

Just touch the gas pedal quick; you don't have to stomp it. What happens? Hesitation or bog? Better yet it revs up smooth? If it hesitates, add some fuel. If it bogs, take some out.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

Damn, i didnt realise you have an older haltech. man, the upgrade is soo much more worth it to just be able to have usb right from the get go, and no software crashes or com issues.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

My car has it, so I use it. I bought it 5 years ago (my 23 year old dumb self).
With a PCI to serial adapter, shitty windows vista laptop I never use, and dosbox, I got the old dinosaur working on more modern tech with no issues.

I'm can't justify spending $1,800 on a new ECU for my 1987 Mazda

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

if thats the case, no one would be getting breast implants.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Eh... I'd love to play with a more modern ECU, but I'm not planning on keeping the car forever.
I paid 4300 for the car 5 years ago which is was about 1000 too much.
Then I blew it up after only 4 months and learned it all the hard way since, and spent plenty.
I still need to send my S4 turbo out to BNR, then I'll need an exhaust, and water injection.
And then... AND THEN!!!!

Next car I'm looking for is an M3

damic

M3 is pricey, if you see the price list. Buy a Golf/Civic or something that they tune a lot.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Already have a Civic Si that I track. M3 is the goal AFTER I track the FC.

sideways-FC

a BMW what are you some sort of richard.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

sorry to disappoint... perhaps my FC will go to the next great appreciative owner who is gonna get MAD tyte dorifto son!!! hella flush and ******* stance BROSEPH!!! 205's on 10 inch wheels. **** SON YOU KNOW IT. slammed all day. e-braking that **** ******* weld that diff.

OK I'm done.

sideways-FC

HAHAHA yea that would be me your selling your car to then lol . but 205's on 10 inch rims god no? 17inch xxr 522's stretch them tires on there o yea thats what im talking about!

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

guys guys guys, shut up. no drifting homo talk in my thread.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

hm... found this...

http://www.rotaryonline.com.au/produ...r-primary-s4-5

wonder if it will do me any good to go ahead a purchase something like this? who knows.

REAmemiya_fan

In seriousness, what might your plans for that 14mm adaptor be for?