want suggestions; removed intake manifold and TB
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want suggestions; removed intake manifold and TB
ok, so in an attempt to figure out why my car is leaking oil I removed the intake box and all the pipping to the turbos on that side. and the elbow on the (I think primary one; closest to the front of the car) front turbo was leaking, you can see the build up on it. No big, So I checked the shaft play; I wouldn't say it's a lot, but it's not a tiny amount of shaft play either.... moved up and down but not in and out. Spinning it would result in about 1/2 to 3/4 free rotation. And it does not scratch the side wall.
So thats where my at least one turbo sits. Not sure whether it's good or bad
So after taking the pipping apart I can tell a couple of the couplers are leaking, oil around where it should be sealing. So the next step for me was to check the check valve coming off the fill neck.... Not easy to get to.... so i took the intake manifold off.... HAHAHAH at this point I said screw it and keep going. So I got the IM off, and one of the green/white check valves is busted in half....and one other that is just broken and the other three of so the attach to the IM all are working correctly, hit them with some cleaner to free them up.
So now with all that off I'm going to replace;
- all the gaskets that got removed,
- replace longer vacuum lines that are hard,
- find replacement couplers for the intake tubing.
- replace my spark plug wires
- run new grounds
So my questions are:
- What should I replace the check valves with? OE or generic Autozone ones.
- The couples and plastic pipping, is there a cost effective replacement for these. I know there is the Samco hoses, but thoughs don't include the couples correct?
- While the intake MI is off, I have time before replacement parts come in, should there be anything else i should check or replace?
- What about the shaft play? what do you think? I realize you can't actually see of feel it in the internet, but best guess
Thanks
So thats where my at least one turbo sits. Not sure whether it's good or bad
So after taking the pipping apart I can tell a couple of the couplers are leaking, oil around where it should be sealing. So the next step for me was to check the check valve coming off the fill neck.... Not easy to get to.... so i took the intake manifold off.... HAHAHAH at this point I said screw it and keep going. So I got the IM off, and one of the green/white check valves is busted in half....and one other that is just broken and the other three of so the attach to the IM all are working correctly, hit them with some cleaner to free them up.
So now with all that off I'm going to replace;
- all the gaskets that got removed,
- replace longer vacuum lines that are hard,
- find replacement couplers for the intake tubing.
- replace my spark plug wires
- run new grounds
So my questions are:
- What should I replace the check valves with? OE or generic Autozone ones.
- The couples and plastic pipping, is there a cost effective replacement for these. I know there is the Samco hoses, but thoughs don't include the couples correct?
- While the intake MI is off, I have time before replacement parts come in, should there be anything else i should check or replace?
- What about the shaft play? what do you think? I realize you can't actually see of feel it in the internet, but best guess
Thanks
#2
needs more track time
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replace with OE check valves or the upgraded ones that Dale Clark sells
For couplers try HoseTechniques.com. Spring for some high quality T-bolt clamps while you're at it. They are totally worth it to decrease the risk of crappy clamps not working.
Careful replacing vac lines. You don't want to crack the solenoids. Slice the end of the vac lines lengthwise on the solenoids with a sharp razor and peel them off.
No idea on the other stuff.
For couplers try HoseTechniques.com. Spring for some high quality T-bolt clamps while you're at it. They are totally worth it to decrease the risk of crappy clamps not working.
Careful replacing vac lines. You don't want to crack the solenoids. Slice the end of the vac lines lengthwise on the solenoids with a sharp razor and peel them off.
No idea on the other stuff.
#5
90s riceboy
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You could eliminate the AWS and double throttle if you have the time. You would need to order block off plates from:
http://www.2751engineering.com/2751parts.html
http://www.2751engineering.com/2751parts.html
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what about the shaft play? what do you think. I've never really worked with really worn out turbos unless they were REALLY gone, so I can't tell. my mazda gtx turbo didn't move at all.
#7
Goodfalla Engine Complete
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Originally Posted by Hashiriya
You could eliminate the AWS and double throttle if you have the time. You would need to order block off plates from:
http://www.2751engineering.com/2751parts.html
http://www.2751engineering.com/2751parts.html
Just ordered some!
Last edited by Monkman33; 02-01-07 at 01:03 PM.
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#10
Please somebody help!!!
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aws is two plates at the above URL. Someone's going to have to fill me in on why you would eliminate the double throttle. But- they also have that plate at the above url.
EDIT: you may also want to port the wastegate while the turbo assy. is off.
EDIT: you may also want to port the wastegate while the turbo assy. is off.
Last edited by NissanConvert; 02-01-07 at 03:18 PM.
#11
90s riceboy
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Originally Posted by vtakk eg
how do you eliminate the double throttle and aws
http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/double_throttle.htm
http://www.fd3s.net/aws_mod.html
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ya, turbos aren't off, if they were I would have them sent off, rebuilt and ported, but lack of funds and NOT wanting to actually pull them off.
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generally speaking how much does it cost to get the turbo's rebuilt, if I sent it to a place that can rebuild them, in what ever condition they want (stripped and cleaned whatever)??? I'm considering the fact that I've already gone this far into removing parts, might be in my best interest. But I don't know. Think it would come down to cost.
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Please somebody help!!!
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One guy had them done for $1000ish. If that's out of your price range just port them and be done with it. If they don't have a lot of shaft play it's a waste of money anyway.
#18
Please somebody help!!!
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Originally Posted by joeydinc
rebuild cost anybody?
Originally Posted by nissanconvert
One guy had them done for $1000ish. If that's out of your price range just port them and be done with it. If they don't have a lot of shaft play it's a waste of money anyway.
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