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Used Japanese Low Mileage Rotary

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Old 05-16-07, 06:28 PM
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Used Japanese Low Mileage Rotary

I am just looking for some input, and before I go any further I would appreciate if anyone had something negative to say, that they didnt post a reply, I already have enough of my own weariness about this.

I bought a used "low mileage" rotary. Reason being: I wanted to be able to get the car together quicker than I originally planned and pass emissions and not worry about too much during the build. Also the basic bolt ons I would want in my final build are in this pre-build, only minus deeper thought requiring parts.

My question to everyone,

what are some things you would do to ensure that the motor is in acceptable condition before getting to far into it, and what are some things you would do after that point to ensure an easy start up and first running experience for a motor that has probably sat for a while and a chassis that has sat for 6 years.

Anyone that puts in a few cents is most appreciated. and Thank you to anyone who was planning on calling bad names for doing this, for not posting. LoL
Old 05-16-07, 09:24 PM
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You can test the compression using a starter and bellhousing. You can test the coolant seals possibly by blocking off the coolant passages and using a pressure tester, although that would take a little creativity.

If you want to be sure, you tear down the engine and rebuild it. Used engines, whether they are "low mileage" or not can be anything.

Dave
Old 05-16-07, 10:23 PM
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Have your injectors serviced, just because you have low miles doesn't mean that engine hasnt been sitting in the yard since 1993. In fact the lower the miles, the more likely I'd say your engines been sitting since 1993 =]

Oh yeah since the engine is out, I would replace the rats nest hoses, put in a nice flywheel and clutch package and checkout the turbos.
Old 05-17-07, 11:51 AM
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I have the hose techniques silicon hose kit, and ACT street/Strip clutch and ACT light weight flywheel sitting at my house, along with a greddy intercooler kit and a koyo radiator and samco hoses.

Only way I know of doing injector flush is with the vehicle running, once its running I plan on injector flushing, and after 500 miles oil change and radiator flush. I am gonna put a bottle or two of injector cleaner in the gastank with a fresh tank of the 92 octane or is it 91 now... that should get it nice and cleaned up.

so compression test and cooling system pressure test. are the coolant o-rings internal? or will i see some coolant leaking out onto the ground?

Thanks
Old 05-17-07, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by paulagre
I have the hose techniques silicon hose kit, and ACT street/Strip clutch and ACT light weight flywheel sitting at my house, along with a greddy intercooler kit and a koyo radiator and samco hoses.
Samco I believe does not supply ALL of the coolant hoses in the engine bay. I recommend you call Ray at Malloy and buy new OEM hoses for anything you're not replacing with Samco. You might want to add oil metering lines to the list too, and carefull inspect your wiring harness. Crispy wiring harnesses often don't survive major work and can be a bear to properly diagnose once everything is put back together.

Only way I know of doing injector flush is with the vehicle running, once its running I plan on injector flushing, and after 500 miles oil change and radiator flush. I am gonna put a bottle or two of injector cleaner in the gastank with a fresh tank of the 92 octane or is it 91 now... that should get it nice and cleaned up.
Actually, those in-tank injector cleaners are weak at best. The closed-loop cleaners a lot better, but the best answer is to remove the injectors and have them ultrasonically cleaned. If you run a search on injector cleaning you'll find places to send them and the benefits.

so compression test and cooling system pressure test. are the coolant o-rings internal? or will i see some coolant leaking out onto the ground?

Thanks
I suggest you read through the FAQ and the big sites that are linked from it. Coolant seal failure is covered there.

Dave
Old 05-17-07, 12:13 PM
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I plan on a closed loop flush as well, I am mainly using the in tank crap to help emmissions a little. every little bit helps. I emailed Ray about a wealth of oem hoses and filters and nonsense and never got a response. Happen to have the number? Which faq covers coolant seal failure? if you have the link nearby toss it in please otherwise I can pribably find it when I have time. thanks for your input.
Old 05-17-07, 12:31 PM
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I don't think JDM engine have all of the smog equipment necessary to pass emissions in the states. Well at least not in California
Old 05-17-07, 02:11 PM
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thats correct, no air pump, no pre-cat, and probably no o2 sensors, at least that is how the mitsubishi motors are. they run on maf and map though.
Old 05-17-07, 02:20 PM
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I'm not sure about the 3rd gens, but my j-spec 2nd gen motors could never pass Cali emmissions because it doesn't have anywhere to put an EGR valve 3rd gens might have similar problems. Cali says, NO EGR=NO PASS=Find a crooked smog shop
Old 05-17-07, 02:36 PM
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I got a jdm fd they have air pump. egr.cat etc. Cheers Phil
Old 05-17-07, 02:41 PM
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Sorry o2 as well
Old 05-17-07, 02:50 PM
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well thats cool, I didn't know that. I assumed it would be like the mits I had. That makes life a bit easier. Thanks for that Phil. Did you get a used JDM or a new one?
Old 05-17-07, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by paulagre
I plan on a closed loop flush as well
They should be cleaned and balanced. A popular place to send them to:

http://www.witchhunter.com/
Old 05-17-07, 03:39 PM
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Mines a 94 imported into UK 2 years ago. most fd's are jdm imports over here. steering wheels on the right side lol. Phil
Old 05-17-07, 03:56 PM
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send them to witchhunter like majik said or send them to linder technical services (google them) but either way, get it professionally serviced. its quite different




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