single vs. twin
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single vs. twin
I was a little curious as to the prices of getting new twin turbos,such as the BNR stage 3's,or upgrading to a single turbo..From what i've seen,it seems a lot cheaper to go single than to upgrade your twins,..Is that really true?Or am I missing something?
#2
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The main difference is that the twin turbo upgrades can work with the stock or rechipped ECU's.
The reason is, that 10 PSI is 10 PSI. However, the CFM of a single turbo (depending on the turbo) is going to be a LOT different than a twin setup at 10 PSI. Therefore, you need ECU programming which forces an ECU upgrade/replacement with the single upgrade. That in itself increases the price.
However, if you already have the programmable ECU or you plan on using one with a twin turbo upgrade then the costs can be about the same.
The reason is, that 10 PSI is 10 PSI. However, the CFM of a single turbo (depending on the turbo) is going to be a LOT different than a twin setup at 10 PSI. Therefore, you need ECU programming which forces an ECU upgrade/replacement with the single upgrade. That in itself increases the price.
However, if you already have the programmable ECU or you plan on using one with a twin turbo upgrade then the costs can be about the same.
#4
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Originally Posted by Authentikdit
Do you need a different intercooler/fuel system to run a single turbo than the stock twins,or even aftermarket twins?
Need has to do with how much performance you want or need. For instance, you don't need a single turbo, aftermarket fuel system, or 4" exhaust piping if you want to run 300rwhp. That doesn't mean you couldn't get a single turbo, fuel system and large exhaust and run it 300rwhp.
First thing you need to do is decide what you want out of your car and how you plan to use it. When you have that part figured out, it will dictate what is needed to get you there (and how much its going to cost).
For instance, some people say "I want to be at 400rwho". Now does that mean they want to hit the dyno and just get there, or does that mean they want to run 400rwhp every day on the street?
#6
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Originally Posted by Authentikdit
I get what you mean..Would you say that a single is more reliable for street driving than the twins?
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I found that the single was alittle easier to understand under the hood in comparison to the non sequential setup of the twins. From my single turbo build I found that with the right bolt ons the stock twins running at 12psi non seq was a pretty sweet platform to stay at vs. going the single route. Mainly because the single turbo is very lures you into bumping the psi just alittle higher until the engine is the weak link.
Just my .02 worth.
good luck on the build.
Just my .02 worth.
good luck on the build.
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I appreciate all the responses..I only ask because I am looking to upgrade my twins soon,whether it be new twins or going single,and I found that a lot of the single turbos were in the low $1,000's vs. mid $2,000 twins that I saw..I'm not looking for insane power,as this is my dd,however it would be nice to go single if it was going to be a little less expensive + a little bit more reliable..
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It's actually more expensive to go single unless you already have some supporting mods. Otherwise you break about even.
With the twins (BNR's) you basically just bolt up and go if you are planing to boost as the same psi as you were before the upgrade. Keep in mind though that I haven't heard of anyone runing BNR's on a stock ECU so an ECU upgrade and a tune maybe needed as well. Unless you already have a wideband A/F gauge to monitor your new set up.
With a single you still need a DP, wastegate, BOV, a connecting pipe to the IC, also an IC upgrade is a good idea to get the most out that turbo. A stand alone ECU and a definite tune are also required. Depending on how your A/F ratios are during the tune, fuel rail, injectors, and a fuel pump may be required as well.
With the twins (BNR's) you basically just bolt up and go if you are planing to boost as the same psi as you were before the upgrade. Keep in mind though that I haven't heard of anyone runing BNR's on a stock ECU so an ECU upgrade and a tune maybe needed as well. Unless you already have a wideband A/F gauge to monitor your new set up.
With a single you still need a DP, wastegate, BOV, a connecting pipe to the IC, also an IC upgrade is a good idea to get the most out that turbo. A stand alone ECU and a definite tune are also required. Depending on how your A/F ratios are during the tune, fuel rail, injectors, and a fuel pump may be required as well.
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Originally Posted by montego
It's actually more expensive to go single unless you already have some supporting mods. Otherwise you break about even.
With the twins (BNR's) you basically just bolt up and go if you are planing to boost as the same psi as you were before the upgrade. Keep in mind though that I haven't heard of anyone runing BNR's on a stock ECU so an ECU upgrade and a tune maybe needed as well. Unless you already have a wideband A/F gauge to monitor your new set up.
With a single you still need a DP, wastegate, BOV, a connecting pipe to the IC, also an IC upgrade is a good idea to get the most out that turbo. A stand alone ECU and a definite tune are also required. Depending on how your A/F ratios are during the tune, fuel rail, injectors, and a fuel pump may be required as well.
With the twins (BNR's) you basically just bolt up and go if you are planing to boost as the same psi as you were before the upgrade. Keep in mind though that I haven't heard of anyone runing BNR's on a stock ECU so an ECU upgrade and a tune maybe needed as well. Unless you already have a wideband A/F gauge to monitor your new set up.
With a single you still need a DP, wastegate, BOV, a connecting pipe to the IC, also an IC upgrade is a good idea to get the most out that turbo. A stand alone ECU and a definite tune are also required. Depending on how your A/F ratios are during the tune, fuel rail, injectors, and a fuel pump may be required as well.
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Originally Posted by Authentikdit
So let's pretend,for argument's sake,that I was planning on upgrading my IC,ecu,and fuel system regardless of what turbos I run..Then would it be a good choice to go single?Or are the twins still my best bet?
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Originally Posted by Authentikdit
So let's pretend,for argument's sake,that I was planning on upgrading my IC,ecu,and fuel system regardless of what turbos I run..Then would it be a good choice to go single?Or are the twins still my best bet?
#14
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With that said I'd say go with go with a ball bearing single in order to get that fast spool time. Because lag really sucks.
I am non sequential and I don't get full boost till 3800 RPMs at first I didn't mind it but after a while it began to bug me a little.
I am non sequential and I don't get full boost till 3800 RPMs at first I didn't mind it but after a while it began to bug me a little.
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^That's why i've stayed sequential..I love the quick spool of my turbos,even though higher numbers are possible being non-sequential..I would love a single turbo that doesn't have much lag..
#17
I am surprised everyone has been so cordial with you. Usually this kind of question draws the “do a search” comment within the first 5 minutes of being posted. Single turbo is a huge commitment, and doesn’t seem totally necessary if you aren’t after the power or simplicity. Sure it runs a little cooler, but it doesn’t much matter is you aren’t pushing the car to the limits… Do you do much track driving (road course or drag race)? Go back to Mahjik’s response…Know what you want to do with the car and go from there. If you are just into performance around town, the twins are really nice, especially when functioning perfectly in full sequential. Do the reliability mods (Radiator, DP, high flow cat, intercooler and exhaust)…get a PowerFC and a tune. That would be my advice. Along with making sure all the maintenance is up to par on every system in the car (but that goes without saying )
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Originally Posted by cozmo kraemer
I am surprised everyone has been so cordial with you. Usually this kind of question draws the “do a search” comment within the first 5 minutes of being posted. Single turbo is a huge commitment, and doesn’t seem totally necessary if you aren’t after the power or simplicity. Sure it runs a little cooler, but it doesn’t much matter is you aren’t pushing the car to the limits… Do you do much track driving (road course or drag race)? Go back to Mahjik’s response…Know what you want to do with the car and go from there. If you are just into performance around town, the twins are really nice, especially when functioning perfectly in full sequential. Do the reliability mods (Radiator, DP, high flow cat, intercooler and exhaust)…get a PowerFC and a tune. That would be my advice. Along with making sure all the maintenance is up to par on every system in the car (but that goes without saying )
#19
Originally Posted by cozmo kraemer
I am surprised everyone has been so cordial with you. Usually this kind of question draws the “do a search” comment within the first 5 minutes of being posted. Single turbo is a huge commitment, and doesn’t seem totally necessary if you aren’t after the power or simplicity. Sure it runs a little cooler, but it doesn’t much matter is you aren’t pushing the car to the limits… Do you do much track driving (road course or drag race)? Go back to Mahjik’s response…Know what you want to do with the car and go from there. If you are just into performance around town, the twins are really nice, especially when functioning perfectly in full sequential. Do the reliability mods (Radiator, DP, high flow cat, intercooler and exhaust)…get a PowerFC and a tune. That would be my advice. Along with making sure all the maintenance is up to par on every system in the car (but that goes without saying )
Just get all the mods like fuel, ic, ems, exhaust, clutch, then see how you like it. If it's not enough, then you will just need a turbo kit and tuning. What you dont want to do is have to redo anything, like don't buy a clutch that only handles 350hp if you think you may go single and get to 450hp. Don't get 1300cc sec injectors if you think you'll need 1600s later, and don't buy a chipped ecu if you may go single.
Also, don't put a bunch of money into your car if you aren't going to keep it for a while, cuz single turbo can cost around 10,000 but it barely increases the value of your car.
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Originally Posted by pwwatkins
+1
Just get all the mods like fuel, ic, ems, exhaust, clutch, then see how you like it. If it's not enough, then you will just need a turbo kit and tuning. What you dont want to do is have to redo anything, like don't buy a clutch that only handles 350hp if you think you may go single and get to 450hp. Don't get 1300cc sec injectors if you think you'll need 1600s later, and don't buy a chipped ecu if you may go single.
Also, don't put a bunch of money into your car if you aren't going to keep it for a while, cuz single turbo can cost around 10,000 but it barely increases the value of your car.
Just get all the mods like fuel, ic, ems, exhaust, clutch, then see how you like it. If it's not enough, then you will just need a turbo kit and tuning. What you dont want to do is have to redo anything, like don't buy a clutch that only handles 350hp if you think you may go single and get to 450hp. Don't get 1300cc sec injectors if you think you'll need 1600s later, and don't buy a chipped ecu if you may go single.
Also, don't put a bunch of money into your car if you aren't going to keep it for a while, cuz single turbo can cost around 10,000 but it barely increases the value of your car.
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1. Your automatic can't handle a single turbo. It can't even handle full bolt-on twins.
2. You are comparing the prices of the turbo itself vs upgraded twins that require no other parts. You need to be looking at single turbo KITS. Guess, what? They START at about $3k for a decent setup. Significantly more time and money will be required above that. Going single PROPERLY will cost a minimum of twice as much as running BNR Stage 3s.
2. You are comparing the prices of the turbo itself vs upgraded twins that require no other parts. You need to be looking at single turbo KITS. Guess, what? They START at about $3k for a decent setup. Significantly more time and money will be required above that. Going single PROPERLY will cost a minimum of twice as much as running BNR Stage 3s.
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Originally Posted by rynberg
1. Your automatic can't handle a single turbo. It can't even handle full bolt-on twins.
2. You are comparing the prices of the turbo itself vs upgraded twins that require no other parts. You need to be looking at single turbo KITS. Guess, what? They START at about $3k for a decent setup. Significantly more time and money will be required above that. Going single PROPERLY will cost a minimum of twice as much as running BNR Stage 3s.
2. You are comparing the prices of the turbo itself vs upgraded twins that require no other parts. You need to be looking at single turbo KITS. Guess, what? They START at about $3k for a decent setup. Significantly more time and money will be required above that. Going single PROPERLY will cost a minimum of twice as much as running BNR Stage 3s.
#23
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Originally Posted by pwwatkins
Also, don't put a bunch of money into your car if you aren't going to keep it for a while, cuz single turbo can cost around 10,000 but it barely increases the value of your car.
I've heard that many times. But it does not add up to me:
Let's say we start from scratch
a-spec kit that contains turbo package: $3200 (I know rx7 store has them for $2600)
IC $1000
Intake: $300 (it's just a cone)
BOV $300 bucks
injectors and fuel rail $300
Fuel pump $150
Map sensor $200 for past 17 psi.
ECU $ 750 (japan parts
Tuning $300-$500
Twin power most likely $400
MP $150
Exhaust $500
roughly $7750 and that's starting from scratch.
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Yeah, but your $7750 does not include things like fabbing up intercooler piping, miscellaneous items needed for install (like a $150 FPR for example). It also does not include tax or shipping on all of the above. Most importantly it includes no labor, so DIY.
You also left out a clutch to handle the power, and other incidentals. That $10k figure isn't so out of reach now, is it?
You also left out a clutch to handle the power, and other incidentals. That $10k figure isn't so out of reach now, is it?