The saga continues. Oil leaking from bottom of bnr (pics)
#1
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
The saga continues. Oil leaking from bottom of bnr (pics)
Welp. Oil is coming from the bottom of the bnr turbos. What is this part? Can I drive the car to Daves or will I starve the turbos of oil?
There might be a gasket there that's faulty? Is something like this off the shelf or do I need to contact bnr?
There might be a gasket there that's faulty? Is something like this off the shelf or do I need to contact bnr?
#4
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
That's a stock part right. I.e. Not something unique to bnr? I got the car on jack stands now and typing this as I lay underneath it. How the hell are you suppose to get at it?
I imagine I need to replace the hose and a gasket?
#5
All out Track Freak!
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Hopefully it's as simple as tightening the two 10mm bolts if you not yes you need to put in a new gasket
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#10
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Seems to be pissing pretty quickly and I can't get at that one bolt. I need to make the trek to Daves which is a couple hundred miles. I need to show him some other things as well.
If I stay off boost does the oil go thru there the same? Just trying to conserve. I do t want to run it low.
If I stay off boost does the oil go thru there the same? Just trying to conserve. I do t want to run it low.
#13
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
I have been searching at nauseam. I assume that line that I posted a pic of is the primary turbo return. Many people talk about getting at that bolt. I just can't get a straight shot at it. It's driving me nuts. I tried a 3/8 drive universal joint with a 1/4 adapter but nothing. Can't get it. I guess I should be using a 1/4 drive universal joint. But even then seems so tuff. I need a lift. I am doing this with the car on jack stands while laying on the ground.
These turbos have been off and on the car a few times within 2k miles. Remember this engine has been rebuilt twice in 2k miles by very reputable shops. I am guessing the gasket is simply shot but I'd love to get at that damn nut. If the gasket was flawed one would think it would have been leaking from the get go. I been under this car for hours and it's been so clean under there.
#14
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Maybe the bnrs size is making it harder to get at. Rich are you around? U have had the bnrs for awhile. Is the size the issue or do I need to man up and get back under there?
Owning this thing makes me want to get a lift for the garage. It might happen
Owning this thing makes me want to get a lift for the garage. It might happen
Last edited by matty; 09-27-15 at 04:38 PM.
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
Sometimes you just need to bite the bullet and remove some stuff.
I have many times spent more time trying to make something work without removing parts, where I should have bitten the bullet, removed some parts and be done in less time with less head aches.
10mm stubby ratcheting spanner is really useful..i purchased that after removing my turbos for the first time, lol
I have many times spent more time trying to make something work without removing parts, where I should have bitten the bullet, removed some parts and be done in less time with less head aches.
10mm stubby ratcheting spanner is really useful..i purchased that after removing my turbos for the first time, lol
#16
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
I would try a 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket -
That and a good sized extension. 1/4" drive tools make a HUGE difference in working in tight spaces.
That fitting will only leak when the car is running. Car is running means pressurized oil is going into the turbo, lubricating the bearing, then draining out the drain line. When the car is off, all the oil flows back to the oil pan and sits there.
Dale
That and a good sized extension. 1/4" drive tools make a HUGE difference in working in tight spaces.
That fitting will only leak when the car is running. Car is running means pressurized oil is going into the turbo, lubricating the bearing, then draining out the drain line. When the car is off, all the oil flows back to the oil pan and sits there.
Dale
#17
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Thanks dale. I was hoping you'd chime in
I been googling for tools and was looking exactly at that. I guess I will get back under the car soon. Now that I think about it what I was using was never going to work.
hopefully torquing that down will fix the problem.
I been googling for tools and was looking exactly at that. I guess I will get back under the car soon. Now that I think about it what I was using was never going to work.
hopefully torquing that down will fix the problem.
I would try a 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket -
That and a good sized extension. 1/4" drive tools make a HUGE difference in working in tight spaces.
That fitting will only leak when the car is running. Car is running means pressurized oil is going into the turbo, lubricating the bearing, then draining out the drain line. When the car is off, all the oil flows back to the oil pan and sits there.
Dale
That and a good sized extension. 1/4" drive tools make a HUGE difference in working in tight spaces.
That fitting will only leak when the car is running. Car is running means pressurized oil is going into the turbo, lubricating the bearing, then draining out the drain line. When the car is off, all the oil flows back to the oil pan and sits there.
Dale
#18
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
The M6x1.0mm bolts you're about to ATTACK have less than 10ft-lbs of torque!!! Do not snap them or you will be removing your turbos for metal work. There are no nuts and studs where you are venturing, just small bolts. Clearance for a new stock pipe, 2 metal (rubber coated) gaskets, and 4 new M6x1.0mm bolts shouldn't be a problem with the turbos still on the manifold.
#19
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Thank you. I will order today. This is in fact the primary correct?
The M6x1.0mm bolts you're about to ATTACK have less than 10ft-lbs of torque!!! Do not snap them or you will be removing your turbos for metal work. There are no nuts and studs where you are venturing, just small bolts. Clearance for a new stock pipe, 2 metal (rubber coated) gaskets, and 4 new M6x1.0mm bolts shouldn't be a problem with the turbos still on the manifold.
#20
gross polluter
iTrader: (2)
That oil return is a bitch to get to. It shouldn't be under pressure though, it's just a drain from the turbo to the pan so it won't be spraying. Spray is from the drip being blown around by the air movement from driving. You shouldn't lose much volume.
To remove it you will have to remove the other end of the drain pipe at the pan, then you can remove the leaky side. Good excuse to invest in a swiveling 1/4" drive socket set.
To remove it you will have to remove the other end of the drain pipe at the pan, then you can remove the leaky side. Good excuse to invest in a swiveling 1/4" drive socket set.
#22
Rotary Enthusiast
^its just not. Pressurised oil is fed from the engine to the turbos. Then i spose you could say it has room to un-pressurize, is spun around the bearings a bit then drains back into the pan.
Think about a single turbo setup, its important that the feed & drain is as close to vertical as possible, because it gets pushed into the turbo under pressure, then has to drain back into the sump via gravity. If your drain is not close to vertical, then oil will back up and you will smoke and have problems.
Think about a single turbo setup, its important that the feed & drain is as close to vertical as possible, because it gets pushed into the turbo under pressure, then has to drain back into the sump via gravity. If your drain is not close to vertical, then oil will back up and you will smoke and have problems.
#23
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
#25
Im a tall midget.
iTrader: (28)
Are you 100% positive it's leaking from that return hose? It could very well be seeping from the oil feed line on top of the turbos then leaking down and accumulating on that hose. Check the banjo bolt on top of the turbo for any oil moisture around that bolt and crush washer. This banjo bolt is located on pipe "A" directly above the primary turbo in the diagram posted above. That metal pipe you pictured is a drain pipe that isn't under pressure.
Did you just install the turbos or did you have these installed for a while and the leak suddenly happened?
Did you just install the turbos or did you have these installed for a while and the leak suddenly happened?