MBRPRX7

I'm looking for some help on this one guys...I pulled my rear stationary gear to replace the o ring and rear main seal. Once I had it out, I realized that there is wear on the side opposite from the plugs. The manual says to repair it if the tollerances are out more than .13 on the ouside and I'm probably close to that.

I don't have a camera to post pictures tonight but my question is...if the rear is showing copper about 1/2 the way around, how bad is my front one going to be? I do not want to pull the front of the motor apart for something that started with a clutch replacement.

Do the front and rear bearings typically wear at the same rate? Will replacing only the rear bearing keep the engine running as well as it did before I pulled it apart or do you have to replace both at the same time?

I'll see if I can post some pictures to let you see the wear i'm talking about. You can't feel any scales, or anything...there is one very small groove that runs about 1/3 of the way around on the outer side of the bearing.

Thanks for any advice...

Can I take the whole stationary gear into my mazda dealer and just get them to press a new bearing in for me?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

How many miles are on the motor? Ever run it low on oil? I'm wondering if your endplay is out of spec.

I would NOT take the stat gear into your mazda dealer.

I'd recommend shipping the stat gear to the nearest rotary specialty shop (who does rebuilds) to have it properly replaced.

MBRPRX7

The car only has 75 000km on it which is about 50 000 miles. I think I am over paranoid about these things.

I understand what you are saying about not taking it to the dealer, they often do more harm than good. In all honesty, if the dealer can get it tomorrow, I'll take it to work and do it myself.

The copper is starting to show, but you can tell its got a layer of the outer material still covering it, the coper is just starting to show.

The part that worries me most, is you can see the slag looking stuff where the coating has actually started to build up along the edge of the bearing.

I have zero history on the car or motor. It runs very strong and has not been modified. The price was right and motors can be replaced/fixed but I was more interested in a clean body/title.

I am a firm believer of doing things right the first time. Had I not pulled the stationary gear to replace the o ring I would never have even seen the bearing.

Will I do more harm than good if I only replace the rear one? The motor does not shake, miss or anything like that. It has a smooth consistent idle, and starts easily.

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

Six Rotors

iTrader: (17)

Where are you in Ontario?

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

You should not see any copper. If you have the rear gear out I would replace the bearing. The other bearings way be worn as well but there is really no easy way to change the front one. If you can't get it done locally send it to me at the shop and I will do it for you.

MBRPRX7

North of Toronto about two hours...Where are you?

MBRPRX7

Hey,

Thanks for the offer. I will see what I can do locally but I just want to make sure it is in the best condition possible before I re assemble.

When I measure the diameter of the e-shaft can I just replace the bearing with the factory spec bearing or do I have to specify the "color" or bearing tolerance for sure? I'm going to post a picture of the wear today.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I'd replace it while you have it out. If you mail it to my shop I can take care of it for you, PM me if interested.

I also would pay special attention to oil change frequency and oil level.....installed correctly in a properly built motor bearings should last for up to 100,000 miles (160,000 km) in an FD application, sometimes longer.

MBRPRX7

djseven

iTrader: (56)

That bearing is done, however, the rears almost always show more wear than the fronts so that should give you some peace of mind. A new bearing from Atkins is around $55.00. Any machine shop should be able to press it in for you. Just make sure they remove the screw before pressing it in or out. Make sure to lubricate it with fresh oil before reinstalling. Its not a big deal and you will likely never see a problem from the front bearing before loosing a coolant/apex seal.

David

MBRPRX7

ahhh, relief. I didn't sleep last night ahahahah. How a simple clutch job turns into more. So for the final question. How do I determine what bearing I need. My local Mazda dealer told me to give him a color. They all have different tolerances. Is this where the micrometer comes into play? Or is there a specif bearing that I should order.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Best bet would likely be to call Atkins rotary and speak with them over the phone, ask for Dan and he will take care of you.

MBRPRX7

Thanks again.

I spoke with Dan a few hours ago and he recommended that I just reuse the bearing as it is...Worn or not, it has equal wear to the front main, and rotor bearings. I am going to start saving for a full rebuild and with any luck the royal purple will hold me over until not this winter, but next. We'll see. The car is NOT my DD and will hopefully see 10, 000 more km before I have everything rebuilt.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Hm, my experience has been different than yours David. I typically see more wear on the front main bearing, and in the few spun bearings i've seen that has always been the one to spin.

Also, the rotor bearings always show less wear (more surface area) than the main bearings. If it were my motor I would absolutely install a new bearing, that one looks like crap.

MBRPRX7

Is there any issue with only installing one bearing and not all of them?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Not that I'm aware of, but I always replace them in pairs.

If you plan to take the motor out in the near future, you might be fine putting it back in. It's a gamble in my opinion, and I wouldn't want to take that motor to redline all that often based on those pictures *shrug*

The previous owner (or the previous builder) did you no favors.

How many miles are on the chassis itself? If it received a rebuild by a lazy builder, it's possible those are the original bearings.

MBRPRX7

75 000 km on chassis and motor, factory bearing, original engine. Every component of the car is original. From what I can see the engine has never been cracked. The tranny bolts, exhaust nuts, only had marks on the nuts where they had been tightened from the factory. No loosening marks that would indicate the motor or tranny have ever come out over the car. It is completely untouched for all intensive purposes.

MBRPRX7

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

My bearing looks nearly the same. It all started with a oil soaked clutch! Can oil leak by this bearing too and onto the rear iron, clutch, etc? I'm thinking of leaving it in place and just replacing the o ring and rear main seal. I just need this engine for a little while while I rebuild my motor. Any thoughts?

7dust

iTrader: (14)

^^^ If its not worth the 60 bucks to you for the bearing - then roll with the old one.

On the other hand, since you're rebuilding another motor anyway, its a good opportunuty to buy the bearing tool!

CloudPump

iTrader: (2)

Three year old thread.

Let it die.

-Geoff

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

My offer from back in 2009 earlier in this thread still stands.

Send me your rear stat gear and I'll press a new bearing in for free, just pay for the bearing

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Cant beat that.

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

Well, I've talked to a few folks who rebuild a lot of these motors and the concensus is that there is no need for a new bearing despite the "copper" showing. Unless the bearing is scarred, or wiped, there is no need. The babbit on mine looks fine, so I will just replace the o-ring and put it back in.