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I just bought/ am buying a 93fd. I have already got a profec b, apex s-afc, greddy boost, a/f and egt warning gauges. (none of which is installed). I am looking into the M2 tt upgrade, what would i need on top of what i have? Thanks to anyone who can give me direction.
Get rid of the S-AFC and get the PFC which replaces the stock ecu and allows total fuel and timing control.
f you get the M2 twins then you need a DP, hiflow cat, cat-back, and better IC to take advantage of it. You can't stuff in more air to make more power if you can't get it to flow due to restrictive intake and exhaust!!!!!
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Have owned my FD since June 1992.
you want to upgrade the injectors and also get a fuel pump while you are at it. You also want to upgrade your ignition as well
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1994 FD <---1fookntiteFD
Apex'i RX6 Single
Apex'i N1 pro damper
FEED Type 2 front end (real one not a replica)
FEED Hood
FEED GT Wing
18' Volk CE28N Gunmetal
etc, etc....
glass man is right....if you want to run high boost.
1300s are good for close to or right around 400 hp.
I have enough fuel right now to run 19lbs of boost...possibly 20. I wont know for sure until i get my 3bar mapsensor next week. supposedly the m2 set is good for up to twenty lbs....the question is "is your motor built for that?". tis why i went with the ianetti ceramic 3mm one piece set...to handle high rpm high boost abuse. we shall see....
i finished tuning for fuel for up to 16lbs of boost. once i get the 3bar on I will take it in and get it on the dyno for you all to see the charts.
its in the shop getting break upgrades...some new sensors and solonoids and other goodies til later today or monday. if all goes as planned i can get dyno numbers within two weeks.
I'm very interested in these... a couple more questions if you don't mind:
1. Its said that they are not efficient until about 15 psi... does this mean they would make LESS power than the stockers at 10-13 psi?
2. 15-17 lbs is probably all i'd want to run anyway (just for quick "road kill" bursts)... would these still be a good choice in this range, and safe w/ 1300s (which are a MUCH easier install)
at 16lbs i cant keep the tires from breaking loose during hard accellerations in second gear....granted i was trying them out non seq at the time. i turned the boost back down to 15lbs at that point. I need more rubber.
they make plenty of power at 13-14lbs....no way they make less....but the difference between that and 16lbs is HUGE as they really come on strong at 16lbs. at least mine do.
another oc guy dynoed 351 hp at 14lbs of boost in a sequential setup. that would put him right at about 400-405 at 19lbs of boost...he doesnt have the map sensor to my knowledge so he cant boost more than 16lbs.
I will see if i can get his charts...
you will be happy at 15-17lbs....trust me on that. hahaha...well at least i am...but then i still want to see how 20lbs feels...at least once....no point though until i get more rubber.
i run yokohama intermediates on stock rims and that still is not enough.
When talking about the turbo's effiency, your talking about its effiency at a certain psi compared to another psi on the same turbo. In fact, they should make more power at the same psi as the stockers, because they are larger, and thus flow more air.
Linear Mode
