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My biggest grip with my FD are the door interiors. They feel very cheap to me compared to....well just about every other door interior. They look GREAT, but when you grab the door to close it you can hear the plastic creaking and see it moving, accompanied by when the door actually shuts a hollow sound.
Is there a fix for this? I ran across the insulating the doors thing, but that wouldnt cure the plastic creaking when you grab it.
I have put 2 layers of fatmat on my door, the "tin" sounding you hear when you shut it, is completely gone. I havent expirenced any of the plastic creaking though?
Do a search, someone fixed this last summer I believe, I cant remember who but check it out. You probably have some loose interior screws if you hear a creaking from the plastic because mine doesnt do that. I do get the tin sound from my passenger side door but not the drivers side.
Yes, I asked about tinny sounding doors not too long ago. It comes from the doorskin seperating from the structural bracing.. If you fill in the gap with Goop or metal glue or even caulk, your doors will sound solid again.
Here's the link they gave me on fixing it.
Use a dynamat type material for covering metal interior door surfaces completely. Disassemble all parts off of door and reassemble using adhesive backed foam, silicone, and hot glue where applicable. Epoxy repair broken or worn plastic mounting points. On plastic components and door panels I used 3m super 77 spray adhesive and attached a light weight closed cell .125 thick foam (like a thin liteweight wetsuit material). Doors close now with a solid sound like a Mercedes, speakers sound better, there are no rattles or squeaks and road and exterior noises have been reduced substantially. I did this process to most of the interior of the car. Huge difference. There are dynamat comparable materials for a lot less money. Search the web.
chuck
guys i have pics of 97+FD doors fitted with mazda factory sound dam[ening foams. if you want more info let me know. i'd like to post up some pics but how do i resize pictures? thanks.
guys i have pics of 97+FD doors fitted with mazda factory sound dam[ening foams. if you want more info let me know. i'd like to post up some pics but how do i resize pictures? thanks.
Silcone adhesive caulk between the door reinforcement and the sheet metal. I also put a small amount of "Road Kill" I had left over behind the door speakers and then shot in some rubberized undercoating. Cheap and effective.
The creaking sounds you mentioned might be coming from the plastic flexing more than it was designed to. There are alot of little screws etc. Have you checked all the mounting points? Also, if it is plastic against plastic, or plastic against metal squeaking, that silicone adhesive caulk is also good for that. I use clear.
__________________
Jim
93 VR R1
To avoid long-term injury, seek immediate medical attention for a cigar lasting more than 4 hours.
guys i have pics of 97+FD doors fitted with mazda factory sound dam[ening foams. if you want more info let me know. i'd like to post up some pics but how do i resize pictures? thanks.
I Pm'ed you with my email. I'll resize and post up.
Silcone adhesive caulk between the door reinforcement and the sheet metal. I also put a small amount of "Road Kill" I had left over behind the door speakers and then shot in some rubberized undercoating. Cheap and effective.
The creaking sounds you mentioned might be coming from the plastic flexing more than it was designed to. There are alot of little screws etc. Have you checked all the mounting points? Also, if it is plastic against plastic, or plastic against metal squeaking, that silicone adhesive caulk is also good for that. I use clear.
Hey Jim,
What is this "road kill" material you mentioned.
The plastic rubbing against itself is attributable to most of the creaking and squeaking noises in the interior. Mazda did kind of make an effort to address this with strips of adhesive backed foam which deteriorated to ineffectiveness over the years. One advantage of the slightly thicker closed cell hi density stuff is that when you tighten the pieces together it acts like a spring washer. This results in tighter fitting parts / components and helps keep it that way regardless of temperature changes and constant jolting from rough roads and tight suspension.
Hey Jim,
What is this "road kill" material you mentioned.
The plastic rubbing against itself is attributable to most of the creaking and squeaking noises in the interior. Mazda did kind of make an effort to address this with strips of adhesive backed foam which deteriorated to ineffectiveness over the years. One advantage of the slightly thicker closed cell hi density stuff is that when you tighten the pieces together it acts like a spring washer. This results in tighter fitting parts / components and helps keep it that way regardless of temperature changes and constant jolting from rough roads and tight suspension.
chuck
"RoadKill" is the brand name of some sound insulation that one local sterio shops carried. Self adhesive high-density sheeting. IIRC, I bought the "Door Kit" which was suppose to include enough square footage to insulate the doors. I put it on the inside of the inner door panel, just beneath the trim panel, covering all those cut-outs in the sheet metal. I had just a bit left over and added some on the inside of the door skin sheetmetal, just behind the speaker assembly. Then added the spray-on rubberized undercoating.
The silicone adhesive caulk works well for those squeaks for the same reasons you've mentioned too. It's inexpensive and just a bit here and there has worked for me. As you said, mostly plastic-on-plastic, but some rattles from my divider and I remember a rattle from vibrating wire loom beneath the interior trim behind the driver's seat among others. Your foam though, has the advantage of being instant, where I had to let the caulk set up in most situations.
__________________
Jim
93 VR R1
To avoid long-term injury, seek immediate medical attention for a cigar lasting more than 4 hours.
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