cblake3

iTrader: (2)

I installed the SMIC XS Power intercooler over the winter and took it out for a ride the other day. The intercooler sits on the rail just above the radiator on an angle against a duct that a forum member fabricated.

My question is this: Has anyone had any problems with the intercooler shifting around while you drive. Mine is shifting (up and forward) and causing one of the couplers to pop off.

I have the couplers on as tight as possible with T clamps and the one coupler (drivers side between the intercooler and pipe) is still popping off when the intercooler shifts.

I think part of the problem is that the intercooler is sitting on top of a bracket that holds one of the AC lines against the rail I described above. It looks as though if i take the bracket off, the AC line will get chewed up by the bolts on the main pulley, so I don't think I should remove it.

Has anyone done anything additional to secure this or any other stock mount intercooler? Anyone else having this problem?

dradon03

iTrader: (2)

The Ebay IC doesn't exactly come with the highest quality T-Clamps, I am sure they could be a part of the problem as they are not applying constant pressure. The engine torques and the intercooler moves this is normal but having a coupler come off isn't.

If you are using the Ebay couplers I would also upgrade them to good coupler from Baker Precision, HTS, Hose Techniques or another reliable source as I have seen one of the Ebay coupler literally explode during a pull.

NissanConvert

iTrader: (1)

Do you have the hump couplers? they're recommended, although no one ever says by who... I would mount the intercooler more solidly and design the pipes to be a little more accepting of engine torque.

If you want pictures of blown ebay couplers:





I was 8lbs into an 11lb pull when it went pop -loud. Save yourself the stress of a coronary and a colon cleanse and get proper couplers & clamps.

cblake3

iTrader: (2)

I have good couplers that I am using (not the ones that came with the intercooler kit). I am however using the t clamps that came with the kit. They seem like a good upgrade to the standard "worm style" hose clamps that i was using previously.

Maybe I will try a hump coupler and see if it works.

Anyone else's suggestions are welcome.

sereneseven

GET RID OF THE EBAY T_CLAMPS THEY SUCK!!!!!!! ok seriously they suck they end up binding on themselves before they actually tighten on the hose so they are a bit of a down-grade from standard worm drive clamps...also if your pipes don't have a bead in the end then you need to make one, the half assed groove on the intercooler isn't really sufficient either.

tragic00

i've had a lot of problems with this intercooler, the piping poping off at the track, the little flange that comes out and holds the ast snapped off a week after i got it, since the intercooler doesn't really sit on a solid support it somewhat sinks down and its almost free-floating, like the passenger side intercooler piping isn't bent at enough of an angle, and i bought the intercooler duct for it from another rx7club member, but for the life of me i cant get it to fit in there its just killing me.

cblake3

iTrader: (2)

How do the other SMICs mount? I have heard that they all just sit in place and are held in place by the intercooler piping. Is this correct?

rynberg

The PFC SMIC has a bracket on the bottom to fit around the cross-brace. Of course, by the time you get the IC lined up with the duct and piping, I don't think mine is actually RESTING on the cross-brace anyway. Mine does not move about or lose couplers at 15 psi.

NeoTuri

iTrader: (2)

My XS SMIC doesn't move, or so much I can tell.

I did have a coupler come off when I first tried it out, but I think it was a matter of me not tightening it correctly.

I plan to install a bracket to hold the IC to the cross-brace soon, it's just a matter taking some measurements. In the meantime, I going to place some rubber blocks underneath the IC to keep it from moving up and down.

cblake3

iTrader: (2)

Do you still have the bracket that holds the AC line to the cross-brace. It is bolted to the cross-brace by a bolt that has a hexagonal rubber piece surrounding it. My IC is resting on that particular bracket instead of the cross-brace.

It seems like I would be better off if I could remove that bracket and fastener so that the IC could rest flat on the cross brace.

As I noted above, I am afraid to remove that bracket for fear that the AC line will hit the main pulley. Although maybe I could just zip tie the line to the bracket so it doesn't move.

I really think my main problem is the pipe I have running from the IC to the Greddy Elbow. I ended up using a straight piece of IC pipe to connect the 2 pieces and there is a wierd angle where the IC and this pipe meet. I am currently trying to get a pipe that has a 45 degree bend to see if that helps.

I wish I knew someone in the Chicago area that could fabricate a pipe for me.

NeoTuri

iTrader: (2)

I have since removed my AC and that rubber piece, but I can't imagine the piping moving very much if you tie it down. It will look tacky but should be okay. Anyone is free to disagree with me on that one.

CantGoStraight

Just curious if your drivers side motor mount is in good condition ? The motor will move slightly but should move enough to cause the problems you are having. Get good hose clamps then rev your engine while watching to see how much it moves when you do this (can be done from under the hood with the throttle) you can both feel and see how much it shifts under throttle. Of course it will move further with a load on it but you'll get an idea of the condition of your mounts. It's typical for the drivers side mount to fail.

cblake3

iTrader: (2)

Good question. Last time I checked, both mounts appeared to be in good condition. I will have to check and see.

Smitter

i got the pettit cool charge III smic......it doesnt move at all other then the weatherstripping on the top of the duct

VegasFD

My ASP medium rests on the crossmember just as the Ebay core does, and it doesn't move enough to cause a problem. As others mentioned, if the engine is shifting that much, look into the cause of that.

Also, I'd recommed Breeze Constant-Torque clamps. They're a little pricey, but are very high quality parts.

seandizzie

iTrader: (1)

Lining the pipe up and not having a weird angle will help. the pipes should meet as flush as you can get but not touching . You can also flare the ends(with a wench) or roll a bead(perferred) on the pipe to help the give the couplers something to grab. Just make sure your couplers are long or the hose claps will try to slide off from the flare. good luck

Do make some sort of a brace to hold the intercooler on the cross member as others have stated. Enjoy your new intercooler.