HDP

iTrader: (2)

I have read a lot of threads on installing the oil pan, but there's no info on actually laying down the bead of sealant. The FSM says to lay a continuous bead on the inner edge of the block and then install the pan but I was considering a double bead (inner and outer edge) but wanted to get a few opinions before hand. I'm also install the Gotham Racing oil pan brace with studs rather than bolts. FYI, the engine is on a stand.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

It does not matter if you use one bead in the middle or two smaller beads. We use one bead and prefer the gray silicone sealant.

What matters is:
(1) that you do not use so much that it squirts into the pan when tightening. This can end up clogging the oil pump strainer if it comes loose.
(2) place a small bead around each bolt oil for the pan and the engine mounts.

GARCO MOTORWORKS

Spread the bead out to an even thickness and leave a small space around the bolt holes so the sealer will not go into the hole.If the hole has sealer in it and the bolt packs it in the alum can crack .Let the sealer set up as per instructions on the tube or can,and do not put in the oil untill the dry time has passed,also noted on the product . Your fuel rail came Friday ,I will mill it Monday .

HDP

iTrader: (2)

Thanks David. I paid Shannon the amount we agreed on yesterday also. We tried to call you last night but got a busy signal.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

To add to the above:

if possible use 'the right stuff for imports.' It's amazing, much better than run of the mill silicone. I've found it at pep boys and advance auto.

Also it can't hurt to dimple the oil pan and the underside of the motor to increase the surface area, and make sure your oil pan edges are nice and straight---I use a brass hammer and block of wood. Last thing, if the nuts aren't flanged make sure you use some beefy washers.

HDP

iTrader: (2)

The only thing I found was the regular "the right stuff". They didn't carry the kind for imports. Will it make a big difference?

Would using a rough grit sand paper create the same effect as dimpling? Also, 5/8" washers are probably the largest that will fit inside the pan lip.

KINETIK_FD3S

GoodfellaFD3S - do you have a pic of a dimpled pan?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...oil+pan+dimple

KINETIK_FD3S

^ thanks.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Man, you guys are up early, lol.

The right stuff is probably fine. I've used both.

I would go ahead and use a punch and hammer to dimple everything, I don't think sanding it will create as dramatic an effect.

Are you using the moroso stud kit?

HDP

iTrader: (2)

"Early to bed, early to rise, makes a man healthy, wealthy, and wise"...
I've got the healthy part, working on the wealthy part, and haven't figured out the wise part (I still own an RX7)


https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=283

GARCO MOTORWORKS

I may make some oil pan reinforce braces to sell if there is enought interest .They will be mild steel .Mine is SS but that cost to much and is harder to cut .

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

"The Right Stuff" is what I'm going to use next. That regular super high temp silicone wasn't cutting it. Oil pan install while the motor is in the car is a pain in the ***.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

How will yours be different than the ones Gotham Racing is already selling?

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Oil Pan Brace, Stud Kit and or Washers and The Right Stuff for Imports FTW!!!

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

Aye whats the difference between the regular "The Right Stuff" and the one for imports?

GARCO MOTORWORKS

Goodfella , I did not know Steve has oil pan rings so I can not answer your guestion .My ring will be made from the patterm that I made to cut the part on my car .The ones I will sell will be made from mild steel 3/16 inch thick .The price will be below $ 100 if all goes as planned and there is an interest .Mine is SS and has been on the car for several years now .Sence I have hard pipes ,To keep the motor at the same level as before the brace ,I milled the motor mounts down the thickness of the ring .

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

The right stuff for imports is grey in color and they claim 'high vibration, high torque load' on the can.

the regular right stuff is black in color and they dont make the above claim.

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

A mechanic I go to says he uses the regular The Right Stuff and has never had a leak.

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

The mechanic I'm talking about in the above statements name is Seth, the former owner of Puresports. All he works on is Rotary.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

That guy has zero credibility in my book :

https://www.rx7club.com/bad-fugly-members-185/horrible-experience-seth-scally-formerly-puresports-608852/

White94RX

I've been hearing when sealing the pan, you should reinstall the motor mounts because I think the driver side mount presses on the pan in one spot. This was discussed in the thread about motor mounts.

HDP

iTrader: (2)

That only applies to the aluminum driver's side mount.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I would put them both on if not just for piece of mind. I would also recommend you chase the threads on the motor mount holes before getting them bolted up. If you get some sealant in there, it will end up tearing up the threads (don't ask how I know).

HDP

iTrader: (2)

Did a little research...
the right stuff for imports is a silicone base material, which is a known fact, will degrade over time when in contact with oil. http://www.permatex.com/documents/ms...lish/34311.pdf


The regular right stuff is a elastomeric rubber type material which probably will be less likely to degrade when in contact with oil. http://www.permatex.com/documents/ms...lish/25223.pdf