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Hi guys I'm in need of help badly with my FD!

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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 06:22 PM
  #1  
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From: Chy-Town
Unhappy Hi guys I'm in need of help badly with my FD!

Ok guys aim having a problem with my Fd. When ever I start the car at a cold start it idles ruff and then dies and will keep doing that until I rev it some then it will start Idling fine but I think the reason its doing that is because I put all #9 plugs in what do you guys think?

Second issue is after all that happens the car warms up completely and you try to rev it to any Rpm high or low and try hold at a certain Rpm the engine will idle down and back up to the Rpm you are trying to hold at. Example if you try to hold at 3000rpm it will idle down to 2500rpm and back up to 3000 and will keep on doing it no matter what every time at any Rpm. Also even when in gear at a dead stop trying to take off it gets tricky because if you don’t catch the Rpm when I fluctuates back to the top and instead you catch it on its way down it will die on you when the clutch fully engages because of the lack in Rpm. Let me know if you guys have any ideas on what can it be or can it be a sensor some where not working right? Let me know any ideas its driving me nuts thanks?

Jorge
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 08:20 PM
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Huh?
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is your car stock?


list your mods
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 11:48 PM
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From: Chy-Town
Ok the mods I can think of right know are
3 inch N1 exhaust with a high flow cat
Greddy smic and Greddy elbow
Act stage 3 clutch
All #9 plugs with Msd spark plug wires
Unorthodox complete pulley set
Hks super sequential blow off valve
No smog pump
Removed thermal wax rod
Removed double throttle
Pettit air intake
Pettit metal ast
Fluidyne Radiator
Dale Clark’s fuel upgrade

If I remember something else I will let you know. Thanks

Last edited by mar3; Jun 22, 2010 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Killd quote since reply was back-to-back to post in question...
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 12:34 AM
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What have you checked so far? Is this something that just started recently? If it started recently, what were you doing when it happened?

Were you the one that installed the mods, or did you have someone else do it? Do you run stock boost, and do you have a boost gauge to verify boost/vacuum?


IIRC, there are some cold start issues if you remove the double throttle, but I think that removing the thermal wax rod resolves those issues...


I dont think that the heat range of the plugs will cause the car to die like that (I have accidentally installed all #9 plugs, and had no problems). I would start poking around the engine bay to make sure that your vacuum hoses are all connected...

You may also want to try pulling codes from the ecu, and maybe a compression check.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 08:14 AM
  #5  
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From: glen ellyn, IL
I also have this same problem-(1993 FD touring) 90% stock though-
my car will sometimes stall/die coming off of a dead stop and there is a sudden engine/knock sort of popping sound when reving past 1800 rpm(this does not occur when simply reving out of neutral or in park***ONLY WHEN DRIVING)-

could this be a popped vaccum hose/something of the sort??

*starting from a complete stop after a stop sign, the car will immediately drop in rpm almost down to 0 if not die(but definetly below 500!!
*she all of a sudden begins to idle roughly **if i try to rev it up it will fall again in a continuous cycle.\\
it could be vaccum hoses but then again i just had those checked by A-spec early this summer
//it could be apex seals and /or water seals(my car did just break 61,000 mi
**it could also be an ignition problem-my fd also refuses to start sometimes

MODS=a-spec downpipe/koyo radiator/AST removal/

&^%$any one with any feedback or any possible trouble shooting solutions could help me in trying to save my RX-7
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 08:53 PM
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Maybe the IAC?
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 09:08 PM
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What ECU are you running?
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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From: Chy-Town
Originally Posted by crcleofdst
What have you checked so far? Is this something that just started recently? If it started recently, what were you doing when it happened?

Were you the one that installed the mods, or did you have someone else do it? Do you run stock boost, and do you have a boost gauge to verify boost/vacuum?


IIRC, there are some cold start issues if you remove the double throttle, but I think that removing the thermal wax rod resolves those issues...


I dont think that the heat range of the plugs will cause the car to die like that (I have accidentally installed all #9 plugs, and had no problems). I would start poking around the engine bay to make sure that your vacuum hoses are all connected...

You may also want to try pulling codes from the ecu, and maybe a compression check.
It started when I played around with the wax rod so then decided to remove it and see if that fixed it but no luck and yes the mods have been all installed by me. For the compression check its a new Mazda reman it hasn’t even been broken in yet so hopefully that’s not the issue. One thing what’s the best way of checking for vacuum leak besides spraying starting fluid in the engine bay? Does any one have a better way to check for vacuum leaks anything that will pin point the leak? O and yes aim running stock boost.


Originally Posted by car hugger
What ECU are you running?
I have the stock ecu on the car I do have a brand new Power Fc ready to install but trying to get the car running fine first.

Last edited by mar3; Jun 22, 2010 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Merged back-to-back posts...
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:22 PM
  #9  
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Have you checked for any loose vacuum hoses or plugs? Check your MAP sensor plug and vacuum hose. Some people knock the hose loose by accident and the car runs like crap.

Did the car act this way after you went for a drive with some boost? Your mods are scary considering you have the stock ECU in there. Did it happen right after you used 9s for all spark plugs? Maybe a crossed spark plug cable? Check the basics first.
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:41 PM
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From: Chy-Town
Before I put all 9s spark plugs the car would star a little ruff an idle for some seconds and die but when I put all 9s the car will start ruff and die but the rest was there before and after spark plugs and yes I checked map sensor and also replaced it and adjusted Tps sensor. Im afraid to install my Power Fc since the car isn’t running good and I was always told not to install the Power Fc till the car is running good what do you think?

Last edited by mar3; Jun 22, 2010 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Killd quote since reply was back-to-back to post in question...
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 10:54 PM
  #11  
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I know that many folks that remove the wax rod claim that it runs like crap when cold. I was having similar issue although I have my wax rod. I found that I needed to adjust the idle screw and the air bleed adjustment screw just right. Check into those items

Trev
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 09:51 PM
  #12  
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From: Chy-Town
Does anyone know how to adjust it just right or the specs to do it right?

Last edited by mar3; Jun 22, 2010 at 10:44 PM. Reason: Killd quote since reply was back-to-back to post in question...
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 04:07 AM
  #13  
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Just curious...are you getting any white smoke out of the exhaust? Even just a very little amount?
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 04:53 PM
  #14  
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From: Chy-Town
Just a little during start up and when I rev it when its just sitting but as soon as I take a quick drive it goes away.

Last edited by mar3; Jun 22, 2010 at 10:44 PM. Reason: Killd quote since reply was back-to-back to post in question...
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 04:09 PM
  #15  
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
could it be just the colder weather...
mine wont hold an idle until the engine warms up.
i had to start it 6 times or so the other day.
the temp here has dropped quite a bit and i had the cold start assist removed.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 05:06 PM
  #16  
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From: Dallas Tx.
The wax is there so the car will hold a high idle in cold weather, then when the temp of the car rises the idle drops back down. I really think that's what your only problem, you said yourself it idles fine once everything has warmed up.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 06:28 PM
  #17  
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From: Chy-Town
Yes it idles fine after warm up but the other issue stays. The issue is when the car is in neutral or in gear where if you tray to hold a certain Rpm it wont because it will drop Rpm down and back up again over and over and it wont stay at any certain Rpm no matter what Rpm. So like I sad before at a stop light or stop sign it gets tricky trying to take of because of the fluctuating idle if you don’t catch it on its way up and catch it on its way down the engine stalls because of the lack of Rpm.

Last edited by mar3; Jun 22, 2010 at 10:44 PM. Reason: Killd quote since reply was back-to-back to post in question...
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 06:43 PM
  #18  
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I had the same exact problem last year. It was a poorly adjusted TPS.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 08:23 PM
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I saw this post the other day and iwas thinking same thing,,,,,sounds like throttle position sensor to me, you might have upset the set up if you been playing with the wax rod.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...osition+sensor

have a look.
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