help - pressing in front control arm sliding bushings
#1
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
help - pressing in front control arm sliding bushings
I'm plopping in a new set of shocks/springs, but I've got a little stuck on getting the front shock assemblies back in. I was wondering what's the best way to press those sliding metal bushings in? I've pressed on them really hard with a big pry bar, and I've tried what I think is the correct "socket+screwdriver+hammer" method of smashing them into place, but it doesn't seem to work. Can anyone help illustrate how to push these in?
Also, is there a method for using bolts and nuts that I don't know about?
I don't get it, because the last coilover installation I did went so smoothly.
Also, is there a method for using bolts and nuts that I don't know about?
I don't get it, because the last coilover installation I did went so smoothly.
#3
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by djseven
Are you have a hard time getting the bottom of the strut to line up in the mount correctly? Does it seem teh bushing is to wide for it to fit in?
#4
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
Originally Posted by snub disphenoid
I don't get it, because the last coilover installation I did went so smoothly.
#5
Lives on the Forum
The steel bushings in the lower a-arms will tap back in. No grinding necessary.
One of the bushings is fixed in the arm and one floats. I believe it's the rear one that floats. It will tap back easily with a hammer. My trick is to insert the bolt through the front bushing only and then thread the nut on. I then can hammer the bolt head and use it to drive the rear bushing back into the arm slightly to provide clearance. When you tighten the bolt after assembly the bushing will pinch tightly back into place.
FYI the rear toe links are exactly the same.
One of the bushings is fixed in the arm and one floats. I believe it's the rear one that floats. It will tap back easily with a hammer. My trick is to insert the bolt through the front bushing only and then thread the nut on. I then can hammer the bolt head and use it to drive the rear bushing back into the arm slightly to provide clearance. When you tighten the bolt after assembly the bushing will pinch tightly back into place.
FYI the rear toe links are exactly the same.
#6
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by DamonB
The steel bushings in the lower a-arms will tap back in. No grinding necessary.
One of the bushings is fixed in the arm and one floats. I believe it's the rear one that floats. It will tap back easily with a hammer. My trick is to insert the bolt through the front bushing only and then thread the nut on. I then can hammer the bolt head and use it to drive the rear bushing back into the arm slightly to provide clearance. When you tighten the bolt after assembly the bushing will pinch tightly back into place.
FYI the rear toe links are exactly the same.
One of the bushings is fixed in the arm and one floats. I believe it's the rear one that floats. It will tap back easily with a hammer. My trick is to insert the bolt through the front bushing only and then thread the nut on. I then can hammer the bolt head and use it to drive the rear bushing back into the arm slightly to provide clearance. When you tighten the bolt after assembly the bushing will pinch tightly back into place.
FYI the rear toe links are exactly the same.
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Eggie
Snub, reread Damon's post. He uses the bolt & nut as a punch.
#11
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Eggie
Shoot some PB around the insert's OD.
I'm pulling my secondary injectors out, and once I finally pull the rat's nest and the coil packs and get the ACV off, surprise surprise, the screw heads that hold the injector caps on are stripped all to hell.
Oh well, off to the hardware store for a screw extractor. I guess I'll pick up a bigger mallet while I'm there.
#12
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
you don't need a bigger mallet. Re-read Damon's post....it's just a simple tap and the it should move. Take a picture of what your hammering before you do some damage.
#13
Always in style
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hate to bring up an old thread but I'm having the same issue. The bearing is definitely stuck in there, no amount of hammering or pressing with a c-clamp is getting it out. I'm wondering if this is because I had tried to force the shocks in at an angle and now the bearing is no longer axially aligned with the hole?
Did anyone who had this problem eventually get that bearing pushed through?
Did anyone who had this problem eventually get that bearing pushed through?
#14
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
I use a nut, bolt some large washers and a large socket to compress the pressed-in bushing. Pretty easy to do. There was a write-up about it somewhere. Maybe in the suspension section.
Hard to explain. I may be able to stop in some time and show you if you can't figure it out or can't find the other thread.
Hard to explain. I may be able to stop in some time and show you if you can't figure it out or can't find the other thread.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GrossPolluter
Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes
12
08-15-15 10:32 PM