You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join RX7Club.com today!
MY mechanic pulls the transmission not the motor .He removes the flywheel to have it resurfaced, puts in new pilot bearing and rear main seal .How long a job? I do not know , but if he has a flywheel ready to put in ,it takes less than a day . He does not use air tools , so no gauled bolts . He made a tool to get the flywheel nut off with out an air impack .No air tools = slower ,but no bad threads or broken bolts
I don't know....the mechanic has a LIFT which helps alot...he has room to play...if you don't mind about taking your motor out, then go for it....it takes longer but it's better than laying down on cold surface trying to get the flywheel nut off!
if you can get your car on a lift and get a tranny jack, it will go a lot faster
if i remember correctly, you first take off the brace thin under the car, then you just gotta take off cat and catback, then u just take off the ppf (6 bolts i think) and then dissconnect the drive shaft
take off the starter and unbolt tranny from engine, then disconnect tranny (still havent figured out how to do this part exactly there seems to be a couple of ways from sticking a screw driver in to tranny and prying on the release thingy or to pump clutch or something) and your done
If you buy the rotaryaviation.com videos, the majority of questions like what is this or how do you take off this will be answers as well as how do i rebuild or pull my engine
Dropping the tranny is far less work than pulling the motor. The worst thing is you might have to take the UIM off (I did because my arms wouldn't squeeze between the firewall and the UIM) to get to the top bolts on the tranny.
That's exactly what I did to change my clutch. It took me a long time being my first time, as I went slowly and carefully.
Assuming you have all the tools you need you could do it over a weekend no problem. I'd guess the total time is somewhere between 10 and 20 hours of work.
Make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced, and you WILL NEED an impact wrench to get get the flywheel nut off, unless you're some freak of nature that can generate an insane amount of torque on a breaker bar.
If you decide to go through with it and you need either the socket (54 mm, mine is a 6 point socket) for taking the flywheel nut off, or the SST for the flywheel stop (to hold it in place while you break loose the evil flywheel nut), I have both of them that I no longer have need for that I will sell you for cheap if you're interested.
Getting mine done today. Disc, PP, TO,Pilot, re-surface FW, seal, and rear main seal. Going with Redline M/T fluid while they're at it. I went with OEM parts which are not that bad(Daiken-made). An ACT/Centerforce would be awesome but is pretty stiff and grabby for stop/go traffic. Over $900 w/labor. Merry Xmas to me.
Go single turbo and its easier to pull the motor to do the clutch,if you're stock twins then drop the box.IMO.
JDM Black '93, streetport, greddy t-78, greddy 3-row, pfc, os giken twin, guru motorsport dog, t2 diff, 300m chromoly's, tein ha's, ap racing six pots 330 mils, avs model 7's.
JDM black '94 RZ.
Originally posted by Toadman Getting mine done today. Disc, PP, TO,Pilot, re-surface FW, seal, and rear main seal. Going with Redline M/T fluid while they're at it. I went with OEM parts which are not that bad(Daiken-made). An ACT/Centerforce would be awesome but is pretty stiff and grabby for stop/go traffic. Over $900 w/labor. Merry Xmas to me.
I didn't find the ACT street/strip a problem at all in anything but reverse. After the 300 miloe breakin or so it was just like any other clutch. Those first 300 miles were damn grabby though.
After 44k miles I went with the OEM because pedal pressure is a little lighter on my bad knee, even with hydraulic, that's all. So what is the correct break-in procedure? I've heard lots of advice: Don't slip it much, easy on the rpm, etc. whatever.
Centerforce has a disclaimer I found while searching:
"IT IS RECOMMENDED TO PROPERLY SEAT IN THE NEW PRESSURE PLATE & DISC ASSEMBLY TO ASSURE GOOD CLUTCH PERFORMANCE. CENTERFORCE RECOMMENDS 450-500 MILES OF IN TOWN STOP AND GO TYPE OF EASY DRIVING BEFORE APPLYING FULL POWER. IF YOUR DRIVING CONSISTS OF MAINLY HIGHWAY TYPE USE, THE BREAK IN PERIOD SHOULD BE LONGER THAN THE 450-500 MILES. IF THE BREAK IN PERIOD IS NOT PROPERLY FOLLOWED, CLUTCH LIFE AND PERFORMANCE CAN BE SACRIFICED."
Man, you should have seen the old one, it was purple-hued from overheating/slipping. Explains the crappy gas mileage lately also, even when no slipping is detected. Very grabby now, pedal engages at the bottom, like learning to drive a stick all over again sometimes. Rookie neck-snap starts, LOL!