spandy

iTrader: (1)

The a/c in my car was removed by a previous owner...I want it back in. I don't know anything about a/c systems, so what is typically removed when an FD owner does this?

I am taking my car in very soon and I am just trying to round up everything I want on the car prior to dropping it off so any hang ups are minimized as much as possible.

I am guessing this is a near impossible question to ask without seeing what I'm missing, but what could I look for so I have a best guess as to what was removed and needs to be put back on?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

OK, here we go .

First off, I applaud you for looking to re-install AC. The AC in the FD works *great*, and chicks don't dig cars with no AC .

Anyhow, here's a bit of a hit list of parts -

Condensor - this is the "radiator" in the front of the car.

Compressor - this is the belt-driven compressor just under the power steering pump

Receiver/Dryer - this is the "cylinder" that's up in the nose of the car, ahead of the battery.

Lines - there are a number of AC lines tying all the components together. Thick lines are low pressure, thin lines are high pressure.

Evaporator - this is the core that's under the dash. Normally people don't remove this, as without it the heater won't work, and it's hard to get to.

Also, since your car is a touring, you have the AC system from Japan, the Nippondenso system. The AC was installed in your car at the factory, where base and R packages were installed at the port when they reached the US. Sucky thing is the two AC systems are not compatible AT ALL - every part is different. So, you need to be sure which parts you're getting are from a touring. Also, if you go to buy any of the parts new, they're MUCH more expensive.

When installing the parts, I would get new O-rings for all the fittings, and make sure the lines are run well so they don't rub against anything - it's easy to get a hole rubbed in those lines!

With all the parts installed, an AC shop can pull it to a vacuum and re-charge the system.

Dale

vtakk eg

ill sell you my complete 94' touring a/c system ecept for the evaporator

Unholy FD3S

good posts guys

hanman

There is a good possibility that the only thing removed was the compressor, as it is the easiest to remove and weighs the most. If I were to remove the a/c here is the order I would take things out:
1. compressor
2. condensor
3. drier (not much weight reduction here, and it is tucked away so there is no real gain in engine compartment space)
4. A/C lines

You should replace the evaporator anyway when you replace the system. You will have to pull the glove box to do that. A lot easier than a lot of cars, where you have to pull the dash. Also, replace the drier.

Railgun

The heater won't work without the evaporator? How so?

HDP

iTrader: (2)

Ditto

2-Rotor

"Also I have seen people say to change the dryer if the system has been opened what does this do."


The receiver/ dryer contains a sock like material and is used to remove moisture and contaminates from the refridgerant. Usually when an A/C compressor is replaced its also a good idea to replace the dryer.

So the answer to your question is if the lines are open on the A/C system for a long period of time or in the event of a compressor failure it is a good idea to replace the dryer because of the debris or contaminates that might be inside of it.

jectrx7

you will also need the meetering device that devides the high side of the system from the low, make sure the the low pressure saftey is there too so if a leak occures and the refrigerant pressure gets low the compressor will shut off so it doesnt burn up

HDP

iTrader: (2)

What about opened, disassembled and stored for a long period of time (6 months)?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

First off, the receiver/dryer actually has a dessicant in it, very similar to silica gel packets that you find packed in electronics and things. It absorbs water, and water is mighty bad in an AC system - there can be NO water in the system. It is a good idea to replace if the system has been opened for a while, as it will have absorbed humidity from the air and won't be as effective. Good thing is new receiver/dryers are typically VERY inexpensive.

AC system performance - '93-94s use R-12 freon, and '95s use R-134a. I haven't seen it first hand, but supposedly '95s even brand new didn't have very cold AC. For an AC system to work perfectly, the components need to be designed around the freon used. Modern cars with 134a cool wonderfully, but they have systems that were totally designed around 134a.

If you do a re-fit of 134a, the car will never get as cold as it would with R12. My AC can blow 34 degree air out of the vents - while this seems excessive, this will cool down a hot car VERY quickly, so you can run it at fan speed 4 for a minute or two then kick down to speed 1 or 2. In theory, you can do things to make the 134a system more effective, like upgrading the AC condensor and the expansion valve. But, AC is still a black art in the FD community, and no one's really put the time in to do some experiments.

There are also R12 replacements out there, like Freeze-12, HotShot, etc. They're drop-in replacements for R12 that are supposed to perform just like R12, but you can actually buy them new. I know some have had good success with them, but it's hard to say how well they'll work in the long run. Might be worth a try, though, before doing a 134a conversion.

Dale

turBRO240

iTrader: (1)

i like where this thread is going.... keep the info coming..

Railgun

Dale,

You mentioned that without the evaporator the heat won't work anymore? Can you elaborate?

Thanks!

2-Rotor

I wouldnt gamble with putting the whole system at risk i would replace the dryer with a new, not used, unit when your ready to reassemble. Just a FYI make sure you know which system you have in your car as well just as Dale had mentioned before. Its either a nippondenso or i think a sanden system as both systems parts are not interchangable.


"The heater won't work without the evaporator? How so?"

I dont know the answer to this question but i have never heard of this.

spandy

iTrader: (1)

Okay, the belt driven pulley on the top right side, facing the front of the car is for the power steering pump, correct? If so, the compressor is directly below this, and also should have a belt driven pulley right under the pulley for the power steering pump, right?

If I am right, then I'm not missing any of this stuff....which means something else is wrong with my ac Hopefully just needs serviced/recharged but time will tell.

I swear I remember when I bought the car the owner said the ac had been removed....I'll have to read back through all the emails to check now. That is if my assumptions are even correct on the location of the compressor. All the other compenents are also still intact as well, just wasn't exactly sure which one the compressor was.


So if the compressor had been removed, the belt would wrap around the power steering pulley, and take a 45 degree angle back down across the motor to the next pulley, rather than just dropping straight down to what I believe is the compressor....right?

spandy

iTrader: (1)

Anyone?

dontlift

Yup, the arrows point to the pulleys you're describing.
Sorry for the poor image -- I took a pic of an old snapshot (from when I had to clean up after my factory battery leaked...)

spandy

iTrader: (1)

Nope, the previous owner never said anything about the ac being removed....that was another car I was looking at, at that same time that I almost bought instead

Now I'm wondering if I actually bought the one I meant to, I need to learn to pay more attention to what I'm doing

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

The evaporator core is under the dash between the blower motor and the heater core. If you remove it, the blower will just blow air around under the dash and it won't make it to the heater core or vents. You have to replace the evaporator with a duct to bridge the gap.

Mazda did make a duct for non-AC equipped cars, dunno if it's available or not.

Dale

Railgun

IIRC, it sits in a plastic housing. Removing it exposes some holes in that housing, but if plugged it shouldn't be an issue. In particular at the FW for the in/outlet lines and a small hole on the top or bottom ( I can't remember which) for some rwiring. Mine is sitting on the garage floor at the moment and from what I can see, the housing seals itself to the blower and on the other side at the heater core. I'll double check it when I put it back in place, but it will be without the evap core.