Dumbest Question Ever - How do I remove the rear wheels?
#1
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Dumbest Question Ever - How do I remove the rear wheels?
Maybe I'm retarded or close to it but I can't seem to remove the rear wheels on my FD. I've removed all the lug nuts but the wheels won't budge. They won't even rock on the lugs. I've changed a lot of wheels in my day but never had anything like this.
Has anyone ever run into this problem? If so, how do you get them off? Is there some kind of locking mechanism I need to know about?
Thanks,
Jeremy
Has anyone ever run into this problem? If so, how do you get them off? Is there some kind of locking mechanism I need to know about?
Thanks,
Jeremy
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Ok, so I kicked them before, as hard as I could but nothing. Upon hearing the advice of #2 on the thread, I went outside and kicked them about 10 - 12 times and they finally came loose.
On the downside, I think I broke my foot!!! LOL!!
Thanks again guys for the help.
Jeremy
On the downside, I think I broke my foot!!! LOL!!
Thanks again guys for the help.
Jeremy
#5
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Originally Posted by 3rd Gen Jeremy
Ok, so I kicked them before, as hard as I could but nothing. Upon hearing the advice of #2 on the thread, I went outside and kicked them about 10 - 12 times and they finally came loose.
On the downside, I think I broke my foot!!! LOL!!
Thanks again guys for the help.
Jeremy
On the downside, I think I broke my foot!!! LOL!!
Thanks again guys for the help.
Jeremy
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#11
Racecar - Formula 2000
Originally Posted by Fatal Lyon X
^ .
DId you kick them from under the car? I'm a ***** so i wouldn't have the ***** to do so. Scared of the car somehow falling on me.
DId you kick them from under the car? I'm a ***** so i wouldn't have the ***** to do so. Scared of the car somehow falling on me.
Definitely - I knew a guy that got killed because one of his cars fell on him while he was working on it - and he had worked on cars for decades before that happened. He got careless and didn't have it properly supported on stands.
Dave
#12
ArmitageFD3S
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If the wheel is REALLY rusted to the hub, you can use this technique but at your own risk. Put the lug nuts back on, but leave them somewhat loose (just so the wheel won't fall off). Lower the car back to the ground, start it up and drive in reverse slowly a few feet then get on the brakes hard coming to a complete stop. That should break it loose. If not, roll forward and repeat. Again do this at your own risk, but on really old beatery rusty cars this has worked for me in the past.
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The bitch about this is that 99% of all tire stores are such bitches about production that they won't take three minutes and $.25 to brush and then spray some anti-seize.
These are the same places that have their guys killed when cars fall on them because they can't get the tire off.
Anyway do yourself a favor and do it right. You can even spray on some product that converts rust to primer and then paint it while you're under there.
These are the same places that have their guys killed when cars fall on them because they can't get the tire off.
Anyway do yourself a favor and do it right. You can even spray on some product that converts rust to primer and then paint it while you're under there.
#18
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The brass hammer works well since it's not going to mar the wheels too badly, but the sharp rap it makes will crack loose the corrosion.
My personal preference is to loosen the lugnuts a little bit, maybe just to 30ft-lb instead of the usual 75. Then when I lift the car and take them off they are usually unseized. If they're still stuck, I leave one lugnut threaded on loosely and take a deadblow hammer to the inside rim. I usually use a piece of wood so I can direct it on the solid part of the rim instead of the edge.
Kicking it is dangerous and unnecessary.
Dave
My personal preference is to loosen the lugnuts a little bit, maybe just to 30ft-lb instead of the usual 75. Then when I lift the car and take them off they are usually unseized. If they're still stuck, I leave one lugnut threaded on loosely and take a deadblow hammer to the inside rim. I usually use a piece of wood so I can direct it on the solid part of the rim instead of the edge.
Kicking it is dangerous and unnecessary.
Dave
#19
Constant threat
Yup....brass or kirksite hammer, and/or block of wood will do the trick EVERY time.
I remember the first time I took my wheels off.....both front AND back were like seemingly WELDED on. But my trusty 3 lb. brass hammer did its trick. After examining the galvanic corrosion that had taken place, I coated the mating surfaces with anti-seize and haven't had a problem since.
I remember the first time I took my wheels off.....both front AND back were like seemingly WELDED on. But my trusty 3 lb. brass hammer did its trick. After examining the galvanic corrosion that had taken place, I coated the mating surfaces with anti-seize and haven't had a problem since.
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Originally Posted by fastcarfreak
lol, how long has it been since the rear rims have been off the car? lol
This is a question I can't answer. I bought the car about 4 or 5 months ago and it was in a non running state. The tires were bald and the guy said that the car had been sitting for about 3 months. Since it is a low mileage car for it's age and the tires were bald, I can only imagine how long they had been on there.
BTW guys, I got the tire off two days ago. However, I'm laughing my *** off over some of your comments.
I really like the one about the guys head exploding as to why it would matter about the e-brake.
#23
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Beg to differ Mahjik...
Marine grade 2400, Nickle ease or c5a can withstand temperatures up to 2600 degrees fahrenheit and is moisture resistant. This is what we use in the Refinery on Cat Crackers and Fired furnaces that exist out in the environment 24/7. Things come right apart if dressed properly on the mounting surfaces. Lithium grease would of flashed off long ago. I cannot imagine any brake system or axle hub running at a fraction of the temperature that antisieze protects. That is why they put a small tube in the box with your O2 sensor.
http://www.mrosolutions.com/piantsz.htm#sol2600
Tom
Marine grade 2400, Nickle ease or c5a can withstand temperatures up to 2600 degrees fahrenheit and is moisture resistant. This is what we use in the Refinery on Cat Crackers and Fired furnaces that exist out in the environment 24/7. Things come right apart if dressed properly on the mounting surfaces. Lithium grease would of flashed off long ago. I cannot imagine any brake system or axle hub running at a fraction of the temperature that antisieze protects. That is why they put a small tube in the box with your O2 sensor.
http://www.mrosolutions.com/piantsz.htm#sol2600
Tom
Last edited by badddrx7; 02-22-07 at 08:32 PM.
#24
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I used to have a '93 Legacy Turbo as a beater. It had been sitting for months and months before I bought it. I had to replace all four rotors because it had been sitting so long. I had the same problem. A dead blow had no effect on the wheel. I ended up getting a huge sledge hammer and an 8' 2x4. I had someone hold the 2x4 as I struck it from the far side of the car.
Armitages technique seems to be the best and safest, but could cause some damage.
Armitages technique seems to be the best and safest, but could cause some damage.
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