RotorJoe

I am in the market for a clutch and flywheel package. The clutch is starting to slip at higher boost setting at higher RPMs, that sucks. I will probably go though the Rx7Store. I am looking for input from people who have the street/strip and four/six puck clutches, which would you recommend. Also would you suggest an aluminum flywheel or the light weight steal? While I in there should I do anything else, like replace the clutch fork (throw out bearings are a given) etc?

This is the clutch that came with the car when I bought it. The dude said it had an ACT street/strip clutch with a lightweight steal flywheel. He also stated that the clutch was about 70%. I have not driven the car that hard or that much. The clutch was probably closer to 30% when I got it, oh well. If the lightweight steal clutch is the way to go then I will just buy a clutch, but if the aluminum is better, I will go with that.

My mods are BNR stage 2 turbos, DP, FMIC, PFC, Full Exhaust, Fuel Pump, 1300cc secondaries, Ported Motor, and a few others. I am looking for a clutch that will hold upwards of 500 hp. Right now I don’t have that, probably closer to 390 hp, but when I convert to a large single turbo I want the clutch to hold.

Any suggestions?
Thanks

adam c

iTrader: (2)

If you already have a light flywheel, I would not replace it. You should probably have it resurfaced. I would replace the TO bearing, and the pilot bearing. If your car has over 80k , and the fork has not been replaced, replace it.

If I remember correctly, I think the ACT SS clutch is good to around 500 HP. Check with ACT to be sure.

felix_is_alive

the flywhell issue is a bit difficult since it depends for what you use the car ,for track/street i would go with a light alu. flywheel ,for for drag etc it gets funny cause some people like heavy flywheels some like light , me personaly i like light remember the lighter the flywheel the quicker the revs
as for clutch i use a racing beat 6 puck with springs and a act pressure plate ,this combo should hold for 500 since my old engine made more or less that power
and yes do change the throwout bearing while you are down there

rynberg

If you need more holding power with the clutch, you can get an extreme pressure plate with the S/S disc. This will hold more than the standard "heavy duty" plate that comes with the S/S and will be much more streetable than going to a puck clutch.

If you already have a lightweight steel flywheel, I wouldn't spend the extra $450 for an aluminum one. Just have it resurfaced as Adamc told you.

RotorJoe

Any advantages/disadvantages to having the aluminum flywheel?

Does the old one really need to be resurfaced (light weight steal)? If its not completely out or grinding, would the surface not be true?

Where might I find a clutch release fork or should I just get the OEM replacement?


Thanks, very helpful.

felix_is_alive

is there something wrong with the fork ??,if not i dont see any reason to change it
and if youre gonna keep the flywheel have it resurfaced
trust me a little more now saves a bunch of headaches later

adam c

iTrader: (2)

The design on our clutch forks isn't the greatest. Eventually, they break. DamonB recently had his fail (break) on him. If it's got a lot of miles on it, its easier to replace it now, while things are apart.

felix_is_alive

did they make an oem stronger replacement ??? kinda like an upgrade???

RotorJoe

Do you guys recommend the OEM replacment clutch fork or do you know of an aftermarket one that is better?

RotorJoe

Sorry, when I was typing my post yours was not there yet.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I doubt that anyone makes an aftermarket replacement that is better than OEM. DamonB said that Mazda changed the part number, so they may have upgraded it.

RotorJoe

Ya, I have been following that post. I didn't see any body recommending an after market brand, but I though I would ask.