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Well, I think I've come up with a better solution to opening the hood with a broken latch cable. The challenge was sort of made the first part of the year by DamonB (see thread) Very Big Big Big Problem
While finishing up the remainder of my engine removal, I started looking at a way to access the latch without using the screwdriver to pry up the corner of the hood. Well, I found a way to do so by removing the driver side turn signal. It takes a little finesse, but I can consistently pop the hood through that access. You will need a heavy duty clothes hanger cut and straightened to about 24". You will need a 1/2" 90 deg bend on one end and a loop large enough to put your finger in to pull the latch on the other end.
First you raise the headlights and remove the driver side turnsignal. To the right of the opening there is a small panel blocking the view of the latch but there is a small gap that can be accessed by pressing up on the bumper opening. Slip the hanger into the gap while pressing up on the bumper opening and you should have a slight view through the gap to the latch. Basically you finagle the hanger like a slim-jim under the lever the cable is attached to and pull. It took me about 10 minutes the first time but after trying a few times I can pop it in about 3 or 4. I hope this info helps a few people in the future.
__________________ "When it happens I won't even notice... I'll be too busy looking good"
What I did as a preventive action was to run a thin wire from the latch, along the front of the car and out to the driver side wheel well. It so happens that I have the plastic wheel-well cover cut out and replaced with a vent screen and I simply tied the wire to that screen. So, if the latch broke I'd just have to reach into the wheel well and pull the wire. For those who still have the full wheel well cover, the extra work would be to simply remove a few fasteners to access the wire.
I discovered while taking my front cover off that the panel that is blocking the latch is actually a support piece attached to the bumper. I think I will drill a hole through mine now while everything is apart just in case.
__________________ "When it happens I won't even notice... I'll be too busy looking good"
HDP. You had mentioned to take out the drivers side front turn signal (not the side marker light - right?) and look to the right. I think that you meant to say look to the left (as you face the front of the car) When I look to the left I do not see any kind of opening. There is a small black electrical box to the left. Where is the opening in relation to the box? Thanks
HDP. You had mentioned to take out the drivers side front turn signal (not the side marker light - right?) and look to the right. I think that you meant to say look to the left (as you face the front of the car) When I look to the left I do not see any kind of opening. There is a small black electrical box to the left. Where is the opening in relation to the box? Thanks
Yes, I'm sorry for the type-o, it is to the left. Remove driver side turn signal and look to the left.
__________________ "When it happens I won't even notice... I'll be too busy looking good"
Well the latch "finally" popped. What a bear. I too raised the headlights, then lifted a corner of the hood by the headlight and fender (about 1" ) which was enough to see what was going on. After several attempts it finally popped. I also will put a secondary release before I close the hood again. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Keep up the good work.
I was asked about my repair of this piece, so I thought I would leave this here as this must be an easy thread to find when dealing with this issue.
This is how I repaired my broken cable mount support, HTH someone.
I think the picture will be more descriptive than anything, this is the original broken cable mounted in a custom aluminum adapter, to replace the broken plastic retaining clip
Take a piece of ~1/2” round stock and drill to accommodate the broken cable end without the broken plastic. Restrain it with a small screw taped into the aluminum round stock.
Also make a end similar to the one found on the stock part on the round stock that will accommodate the original mounting point.
Then slot the entire body lengthwise so the cable can slip through the new aluminum mounting body.
"When it happens I won't even notice... I'll be too busy looking good"
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