You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I just installed brand-new Koni Sport shocks, and when I came to the front installation, the lower "eye" mount was too thick to be installed, even with leverage.
I had to slightly grind down about 1/16-inch on each side.
In short, save yourself considerable time & swearing, by comparing the original shock eye width vs. the Koni replacement (or anyother) BEFORE trying to install them.
BTW: these Koni "yellow" sports were made in Holland.
You had to grind because you don't understand how the suspension parts are put together
Anytime a bolt passes through one of the aluminum suspension members there is a steel sleeve. This sleeve prevents the bolt from wearing through the soft aluminum. One sleeve is fixed in place on the arm and the other one floats. The floating one can be tapped back out of the way with a hammer to open the gap up. Once the bolt is inserted and the nut torqued the sleeve will be drawn back into place firmly against the shock.
This is also true of the drop links to the swaybar on the front suspension, the rear outer toe links where they attach to the upright as well as the upper and lower mounts on the upright that mount to the pillowballs. If any component won't fit into place easily at any of these locations just tap one of the sleeves back first.
To tap any sleeve back I normally insert the bolt through only half the arm and then screw the nut on. I can then use the nut on the end of the bolt to push the sleeve back by hammering on the bolt head. A plain hammer and screwdriver will work as well.
Damon's right. I've heard of this issue before, and it really isn't an issue. I usually tap the sleeves open for any suspension work I do on the car since it is easy to do and makes reassembly so much easier. Note that the sleeve only moves on one side in several (or all?) of the suspension parts. You can tell which side it is by looking at the outside of the joint -- the sleeve sticks through on the side that moves.
I just installed brand-new Koni Sport shocks, and when I came to the front installation, the lower "eye" mount was too thick to be installed, even with leverage.
I had to slightly grind down about 1/16-inch on each side.
In short, save yourself considerable time & swearing, by comparing the original shock eye width vs. the Koni replacement (or anyother) BEFORE trying to install them.
BTW: these Koni "yellow" sports were made in Holland.
:-) neil
That's serious overkill. I took some large washers and a nut & bolt to pull the sleeve out of the "eye" socket.
You had to grind because you don't understand how the suspension parts are put together
Anytime a bolt passes through one of the aluminum suspension members there is a steel sleeve. This sleeve prevents the bolt from wearing through the soft aluminum. One sleeve is fixed in place on the arm and the other one floats. The floating one can be tapped back out of the way with a hammer to open the gap up. Once the bolt is inserted and the nut torqued the sleeve will be drawn back into place firmly against the shock.
This is also true of the drop links to the swaybar on the front suspension, the rear outer toe links where they attach to the upright as well as the upper and lower mounts on the upright that mount to the pillowballs. If any component won't fit into place easily at any of these locations just tap one of the sleeves back first.
To tap any sleeve back I normally insert the bolt through only half the arm and then screw the nut on. I can then use the nut on the end of the bolt to push the sleeve back by hammering on the bolt head. A plain hammer and screwdriver will work as well.
This is not a design problem of the Koni.
And also goes for a few parts that aren't suspension related although I am sure you know that. Airpump and Alternator come to mind.
Thanks guys. I noticed the sleeve on one side, but not the other.
Live and learn!
FWIW, my Touring shocks were dead after I took apart the coil-over assembly, so basically I had NO DAMPENING and I still took first from a 2003 Porsche GT3 and Lotus Elise.
You had to grind because you don't understand how the suspension parts are put together
Anytime a bolt passes through one of the aluminum suspension members there is a steel sleeve. This sleeve prevents the bolt from wearing through the soft aluminum. One sleeve is fixed in place on the arm and the other one floats. The floating one can be tapped back out of the way with a hammer to open the gap up. Once the bolt is inserted and the nut torqued the sleeve will be drawn back into place firmly against the shock.
<SNIP>
This is not a design problem of the Koni.
I read what little there is in the Factory Manual, and re-read it, but there was no note of this.
ALERT: Koni Sport Shock Fitment Issues
Linear Mode
