SEAFD3S

I've always installed a fuel cut-off switch on my previous RX7s (85 GSL-SE and two 86 GXL) because of the flooding problems. I don't see too many people mentioning installing one on the FD. I have a 94 and I don't want to be stranded like I did with my previous ones. I did a search and didn't see much for the 3rd gen.

Also, how many of you have a turbo timer on your car? I had one on my MR2 turbo, but I've also read where people say you don't really need one.

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

No one does the cutoff switch on their FD because it's the WRONG way to do it. It's a bandaid, not a repair or a mod. The FC crowd is comprised of people who generally can't afford to maintain their cars properly, so we end up with "mods" like the cutoff switch.

TT is up to you. With water cooled turbos, it's not as vital as oil cooled. If you drive your car like a normal person a few minutes before shutoff, it will be fine.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Turbo timers are for stupid kids that don't know any better. Don't get one.

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

+1 People actually use these things?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Mine was installed when I bought the car. Should have removed it years ago.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

If you have a healthy stockish FD you should NOT have any flooding issues what so ever. These cars get a bad wrap from people always trying to mod it (******* them up) and then complaining that they have issues .

X1000 on the turbo timer replies.

SEAFD3S

Thanks guys. Mine is 100% stock and I'm keeping it that way and it only has 27k miles on it.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I'd still replace the precat with a downpipe if it's still on the car. The ECU is pretty rich on cold start. Once started I always tried to let the engine get at least close to operating temp before turning it off.

SEAFD3S

Yes...one thing I learned from my previous RX7s...never turn off the car right after starting it.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Also, the FD has a built in fuel cut off switch. Start the car with the gas pedal on the floor and the ECU won't inject fuel.

The FD's fuel temp sender helps a LOT with hot start issues, it's miles better than an FC.

Dale

t-von

iTrader: (8)

The Fd is a little more forgiving with flooding if you allow the AWS (accelerated warm-up system) to do its thing. When you start the car the 1st thing that happens is the rpms quickly jump to 3k to warm up the cat. Mazda does this for emissions reasons. Most guys here will blip the throttle to cancel out the feature because they think it's doing internal damage. I'm here to tell you it doesn't as I used that feature every time I started my fd. My original engine lasted over 100,000 miles and only blew because I over boosted it by accident. After tearing if down, all my bearings and non blown housings and wear were perfectly reusable. Hell at that mileage, I still had enough compression on ONE rotor to start the engine and still drive the car 10 miles back to my shop. So anyone thinking AWS is nonsense, here's your reality check.

Anyways, that feature has a side benefit that most don't realize. When the engine revs to 3k like that for those few seconds, it's also heating up the combustion chamber ALOT faster. During cold starts we often forget how much fuel is dumped into the combustion chamber for start up. Well rotary's have a really long combustion chamber so it naturally takes longer to heat up. Not to menchion you also have a 10lb chunk of iron rotating 1/3 the speed of the e-shaft that has 3 sides to heat up. Knowing this, I NEVER let it sit and idle to warm up. That does nothing but let all that unburnt fuel coat and slowly foul the plugs from the lack of heat in the combustion chamber and build up carbon deposits. You need heat to slow down the carbon build up and plug fouling/flooding process. You will notice the engine running smoother and misfiring less after AWS. Start you car, let the AWS do it's thing and once the idle settles, go drive the car. The faster you heat up the engine, the better. Just take it easy! That's what I did.

My Fd has never flooded EVER. Change your plugs and fuel filter every 12,000 miles and cool her down properly before shut off. That's how you keep from cooking everything under the hood after a good drive. Turbo timers are useless junk.


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t-von

iTrader: (8)

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Been meaning to ask exactly what is this temp switch telling the ecu to make the engine start better when hot? I don't have this with my 20b set up and hot starting can be a bitch sometimes.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the FD new model training book has a blurb about the sensor, its actually active all the time.

with my 20B, i found it wanted more fuel on hot starts, don't forget the FC and FD bump the fuel pressure on hot starts with a solenoid

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

with a water cooled turbo the turbo timer isn't needed. Mazda has some fancy graphs, but with an oil only turbo, the temp spikes after you turn the car off, and this turns the oil into a crusty sandy thing called "coke". with the water cooled turbo, temps stay flat, so the oil stays oil.

thus the turbo timer isn't needed.

or,

if you have a TT, you can turn the engine off, turn the key back on, turn the a/c on, which will run the fans, and then the TT is just running the fans.

SEAFD3S

Cool. Saves me some money knowing I don't need these things.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

So I take it that solenoid is just cutting the vacuum to the FPR so it runs the base pressure on a hot start?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

not sure exactly what you mean by base pressure, but the solenoid just unhooks the vacuum line from the intake, so it runs whatever fuel pressure that is; if that makes sense.

the haltech does have a table for hot start enrichment, it helps! the S4 has like 3 stages of hot start enrichment, and the S4 training manual lists the temps and times each are running.