Turbo Timers and Fuel Cut-off Switch
I've always installed a fuel cut-off switch on my previous RX7s (85 GSL-SE and two 86 GXL) because of the flooding problems. I don't see too many people mentioning installing one on the FD. I have a 94 and I don't want to be stranded like I did with my previous ones. I did a search and didn't see much for the 3rd gen.
Also, how many of you have a turbo timer on your car? I had one on my MR2 turbo, but I've also read where people say you don't really need one. |
Originally Posted by SEAFD3S
I've always installed a fuel cut-off switch on my previous RX7s (85 GSL-SE and two 86 GXL) because of the flooding problems. I don't see too many people mentioning installing one on the FD. I have a 94 and I don't want to be stranded like I did with my previous ones. I did a search and didn't see much for the 3rd gen.
Also, how many of you have a turbo timer on your car? I had one on my MR2 turbo, but I've also read where people say you don't really need one. TT is up to you. With water cooled turbos, it's not as vital as oil cooled. If you drive your car like a normal person a few minutes before shutoff, it will be fine. |
Turbo timers are for stupid kids that don't know any better. Don't get one.
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Originally Posted by adam c
(Post 12135038)
Turbo timers are for stupid kids that don't know any better. Don't get one.
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Mine was installed when I bought the car. Should have removed it years ago.
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Originally Posted by SEAFD3S
(Post 12134911)
I've always installed a fuel cut-off switch on my previous RX7s (85 GSL-SE and two 86 GXL) because of the flooding problems. I don't see too many people mentioning installing one on the FD. I have a 94 and I don't want to be stranded like I did with my previous ones. I did a search and didn't see much for the 3rd gen.
Also, how many of you have a turbo timer on your car? I had one on my MR2 turbo, but I've also read where people say you don't really need one. X1000 on the turbo timer replies. |
Thanks guys. Mine is 100% stock and I'm keeping it that way and it only has 27k miles on it.
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I'd still replace the precat with a downpipe if it's still on the car. The ECU is pretty rich on cold start. Once started I always tried to let the engine get at least close to operating temp before turning it off.
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
(Post 12135106)
I'd still replace the precat with a downpipe if it's still on the car. The ECU is pretty rich on cold start. Once started I always tried to let the engine get at least close to operating temp before turning it off.
Yes...one thing I learned from my previous RX7s...never turn off the car right after starting it. |
Also, the FD has a built in fuel cut off switch. Start the car with the gas pedal on the floor and the ECU won't inject fuel.
The FD's fuel temp sender helps a LOT with hot start issues, it's miles better than an FC. Dale |
Originally Posted by SEAFD3S
(Post 12135119)
Yes...one thing I learned from my previous RX7s...never turn off the car right after starting it.
Anyways, that feature has a side benefit that most don't realize. When the engine revs to 3k like that for those few seconds, it's also heating up the combustion chamber ALOT faster. During cold starts we often forget how much fuel is dumped into the combustion chamber for start up. Well rotary's have a really long combustion chamber so it naturally takes longer to heat up. Not to menchion you also have a 10lb chunk of iron rotating 1/3 the speed of the e-shaft that has 3 sides to heat up. Knowing this, I NEVER let it sit and idle to warm up. That does nothing but let all that unburnt fuel coat and slowly foul the plugs from the lack of heat in the combustion chamber and build up carbon deposits. You need heat to slow down the carbon build up and plug fouling/flooding process. You will notice the engine running smoother and misfiring less after AWS. Start you car, let the AWS do it's thing and once the idle settles, go drive the car. The faster you heat up the engine, the better. Just take it easy! That's what I did. My Fd has never flooded EVER. Change your plugs and fuel filter every 12,000 miles and cool her down properly before shut off. That's how you keep from cooking everything under the hood after a good drive. Turbo timers are useless junk. |
Originally Posted by DaleClark
(Post 12136231)
The FD's fuel temp sender helps a LOT with hot start issues, it's miles better than an FC.
Dale Been meaning to ask exactly what is this temp switch telling the ecu to make the engine start better when hot? I don't have this with my 20b set up and hot starting can be a bitch sometimes. |
Originally Posted by t-von
(Post 12136863)
Been meaning to ask exactly what is this temp switch telling the ecu to make the engine start better when hot? I don't have this with my 20b set up and hot starting can be a bitch sometimes. with my 20B, i found it wanted more fuel on hot starts, don't forget the FC and FD bump the fuel pressure on hot starts with a solenoid |
Originally Posted by SEAFD3S
(Post 12134911)
Also, how many of you have a turbo timer on your car? I had one on my MR2 turbo, but I've also read where people say you don't really need one.
thus the turbo timer isn't needed. or, if you have a TT, you can turn the engine off, turn the key back on, turn the a/c on, which will run the fans, and then the TT is just running the fans. |
Cool. Saves me some money knowing I don't need these things.
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 12136934)
the FD new model training book has a blurb about the sensor, its actually active all the time.
with my 20B, i found it wanted more fuel on hot starts, don't forget the FC and FD bump the fuel pressure on hot starts with a solenoid |
Originally Posted by t-von
(Post 12137489)
So I take it that solenoid is just cutting the vacuum to the FPR so it runs the base pressure on a hot start?
the haltech does have a table for hot start enrichment, it helps! the S4 has like 3 stages of hot start enrichment, and the S4 training manual lists the temps and times each are running. |
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