Pele

iTrader: (28)

At the shop I work at, we use an Oil System Cleaner made by Ever-Wear or something like that...

Pour it in, idle engine for 5 mins, change oil...

It thins the oil out a lot and if I can see the cams through the oil filler, I can see that they're noticably cleaner...

Back of the bottle only says it's Petrolem distillates...

Is it safe?

BadAssRX-7

well i got some of the oil cleaner **** from the local parts store to clean out my pan and such...well after i did the stuff in the oil...let it idle for 5 min or so, changed the oil and let it drain for 1 hour. refilled it and swaped the filter. BLAM blown motor. she lost all compretion of the front rotor and was really low on the rear rotor. it ran fine up untill the oil change. so I personally wont do that again. weather its just a 1 in a million or that **** really does kill rotarys im not gonna risk it again.

cjf

iTrader: (1)

I was wondering that too!!. I just bought a "se" and the previous owner just did a "Justice Brothers oiling cleaning"...The car runs great and I don't know if it hurts or helps??? I hope some of the experts out there that can shed some of there expertise and knowledge with this quandry. I REALLY want to know. I have another "SE" that I may do this too if it is ok...Of course we all know about MMO so that may be the way to go....will watch anxiously for comments...cjf......................

jsinrx7

I dont think those oil system cleaners would be a very good idea in the rotaries because wouldnt some of that thinned-out, cleaner containing oil still be in the oil cooler after the oil change? this would thin the new oil and cause problems. This is why I have never used it.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

The thinned out oil drains much better and MMO usually thins out oil as well. This is why I mix 20w50 with MMO.

Based on BadAssRX-7's experience, I don't think it's good though.

jr69187

i used that stuff two days before i lost all compression in my motor. So i agree with bad *** i will only use mmo.

dan

FuLLsMoKe

Maybe a stupid question, but what's MMO? :o

jr69187

Marvel Mystery Oil liquid of the gods in most opinions.

dan

FuLLsMoKe

On the topic of "cleaning"...

I just bought a bottle of Pennzoil Gumout Xtra concentrated Carburetor Cleaner...
You are supposed to mix with a tank of gas... Will this screw up my system? (as many other things will do...)
What about a fuel line cleaner that mixes with your gas?

Should I be aware to buy certain products?


(lots of questions, but it does say I'm only a "Rotorite")

jr69187

Stay away form anything that can harm rubber. There are a lot of sensitive rubber things on the inside of the motor unlike piston motor. Boy does that not sound good lots of sensitive rubber things. Sounds like a bad condom add.

dan

Denny

Okay....Once more for you Newbies, Rookies, and the unknowing...

Here's the word, Buckaroos....

My lesson in History of MMO came from an old Harley/Vincent motorcycle rider/mechanic and machine shop owner. (George Brey served with Patton in WWII) He says that MMO was originally invented back in the early 1920's as as a supercharger lubricant for racing and for planes. As the air/fuel mixture came into the supercharger (blower for the drag guys) it was compressed by spinning vanes so that more of the mixture could be "charged" into thru the intake manifold and into the cylinders. Problem was that air/ruel is not a good lubricant and as the vanes spun by the inside of the supercharger housing both the vanes and the housing would be worn away ultimately negating the performance of the "charger." MMO mixed with fuel provides a "burnable" lubricant that coats the vanes and housing thus thus extending and improving the perfomance life of the "charger." It is also an excellent top cylinder cleansing agent, keeping valves, heads, and piston tops free of carbon, varnish, and corrosive materials. Taking apart an engine that had MMO in the fuel and crankcase shows it keeps the internals "clean as a hound's tooth." Says George as he nods as if passing on an old hidden secret. All I can say is it works on all my 7's and boingers. It's great for starting flooded rotaries. Nowhere near as smokey as ATF, and since it was designed to be burned, it's better for your rotary than ATF which wasn't meant to be burned.
Now for more info, here yuh go, Trailhands....

Marvel Mystery Oil can be added to gas or oil. It combats internal motor rust and corrosion, lubricates valves, piston rings, upper cylinder walls, and eliminates valve sticking. Keeps rings free and reduces piston and cylinder wear. Also keeps fuel pump and carburetor parts clean, eliminating the need for frequent adjusting. Marvel Mystery Oil retards formation of power dissipating motor deposits, such as gums, varnish, and sludge.

MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil)
I have never heard of that but it sounds similar to using Marvel Mystery >Oil. You run it with your oil and after running it a 100 miles or so then >change it. It does work. I used it on a car that had 60k miles on it and I >did the FIRST oil change ever on it. I pulled the valve cover, pushed holes >in the oil galleys and then ran marvel mystery oil. When I went to change >it 50 or so miles later it was actually pretty clean. I have noticed more >"junk" comes out of the pan when I use they mystery oil first than if I just >drain it. I just don't trust using ATF the same way. 10 minutes isn't very >long.. and I wouldn't think it would do as well as a job as the Marvel >mystery oil would.

MARVEL MYSTERY OILI have always used 93-octane fuel in my bikes. And approx. every 1500 to 2000 miles I’ve dumped 4oz of Marvel Mystery oil in with a fill up, just to ensure upper cylinder lubrication. No, it doesn't make the bike smoke but will burn the carbon off the piston tops, lube the upper rings, valves and seats, I come from the old school and this was done in the olden days, just a practice I've done on carbonated engines, especially of the motorcycle type. to each his own!

~boomerHey all! Been reading all the comments and questions about Marvel Mystery oil. When I was in Sturgis, bike was acting weird. Sometimes fine --sometimes sluggish till about 3500rpm I thought that maybe carbs were out of sync. Pulled off parts to see carbs and slides were black and sticky.(Bad gas??) Anyway I recalled a friend back home saying that Marvel Mystery Oil (for gas) would clean and lube carb parts as well as top end of engine. I poured about half cup in full tank of fuel and after about 30-40 miles noticed sluggishness had subsided. By the time I got home (WA state) things were running great. Pulled of parts again last weekend to look at carb slides and they were shiny and slick as a whistle. I'm sold on the stuff. ~

Regular Marvel Mystery Oil has been around for many years. I add it to the gas about once a month(about 2 oz.), but it can also be added to the motor oil, and someone I know swears by it as a gas stabilizer(to stop gas from deteriorating in storage). I have used it when no Stabil was handy with no ill results as far as I can tell. ~Al from MassTo dispel any misinformation as to the use of Marvel Mystery oil used in fuel or crankcase, I've used this product and have had no problems for 15000 miles and will continue to do so as I stated in original message. To each his own and only time will tell. AS to adding it to crankcase, unless hydraulic valve lifters are sticking WHY use thin 20w50 oil, as this product isn't much thicker than 10w oil. And by adding it to the gas you're insuring that those valve guides won't rust up over storage NO run time. THINK ABOUT IT. NO I don't sell the product but I do believe in it. AGAIN to each his own. ~WALTERI have been adding marvel to the crankcase to quiet down the lifters with no ill effects yet. (About 3 yr.). ~mike c.Thanks, Rick I had never seen the gas additive before. The Marvel Mystery Oil sold in the US (some one posted a scan of the 1 quart can yesterday) can be added to both crankcase oil and gas. Its about $4.00 a quart red in color and has been sold in the same red can for as long as I can remember. In the past I have on occasion added some to my crankcase at oil change time in the car and truck. Haven't done so on the Cade, but do add a few ounces to the gas tank about once a month. Can't swear that it helps - but have not had any engine/carb problems - bike idles smoothly so I'll keep doing it. My 2 cents. ~

Al from massI have used marvel mystery oil for 45 years. When we parked the tractors (back on the farm) we first loaded the oil in the crankcase, then in the fuel tank and ran them before turning the motors off for the season. We then took the plugs out and filled the cylinders with mystery oil and cranked them several times, replaced the plugs and in some cases the tractors stayed outside with no protection other than a tarp. Come springtime, Start the engines and we never had a problem with any of the tractors. I also do not have anything to do with the company. I don't even know what's in the bottle. But, I will say this, "it works" I purchased my cavalcade in March of this year and the lifters were loud, especially when just started and at idle. I have used it for the past three oil changes. (added 4 oz. each time oil was changed) and now I have no noisy lifters at all.

My dad, who knew more about cars and engines that anyone I ever knew, swore by the benefits of Marvel Mystery Oil. He always poured MMO in the crankcase at each oil change and sometimes put it in the gas tank. His cars always made it to 200,000 miles. said Marvel Mystery Oil hasbeen around since 1923. The major aircraft engine companies do not endorse it ...

Cleaning TimeOK, blow the spark plugs clean of any residue (file shavings, etc). Get out the good old Marvel Mystery Oil. The best stuff on the planet. Always was, always will be. I would drink the struff, if I had the stomach for it. A little in the gas tank, a little in the oil tank quiets things, makes them last forever, and in some cases, brings them back from the dead ( but not a good additive for clutches ). Soak a spotless rag with some Marvel Mystery Oil. Tightly wipe the threads by "unscrewing" the plug in the rag. Avoid getting any of the wonderful oil in the gap area. Make sure the threads are moist with the oil.

Lead Substitute for Buick Engines -- An experienced carburetor and tune-up specialist recommended that Marvel Mystery Oil be added to the gasoline in my 1959 Buicks. This would be a top cylinder lubricant, to take the place of lead in gas. He recommended that 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil to 10 gallons of Unleaded Supreme Gas.

Weapons too!
The gas ports on these guns are larger than they need to be for reliable functioning. Lead fouling of the gas port is not a problem, but the gas piston and cylinder will foul, which can affect functioning if neglected. The gas piston should be removed and cleaned with Marvel Mystery Oil and 000 steel wool after each use, and the gas cylinder scrubbed with a shotgun bore brush. Liberally lubricating with Marvel Mystery Oil prior to reassembly eases the fouling problem. You can fire several hundred rounds between cleanings if you avoid super heating the rifle with rapid fire so that the barrel becomes too hot to hold in the bare hand. If you do so, and let the rifle cool without stripping and cleaning it immediately it will be difficult to disassemble!

Marvel Mystery Oil - A4 advice from Don Moyer:The recipe on the can calls for 4 ounces per 10 gallons to be added to the gasoline, but the experts at Universal recommended that we at least double that amount if you even suspect the you may be having sticky valves.If you are already experiencing sticky valves and rings, you can introduce several squirts of Mystery oil from an oil can directly into the cylinders through the spark plugholes.

I feel obliged to point out I am a home mechanic, I don't sell any of this stuff. Adding a few ounces of MMO to the crankcase in a really dirty, neglected engine and driving it around for about forty miles made a real difference in one car I experimented on (a 1987 Nissan truck with 100,000 miles). There's a hill near my house I use as a sort of diagnostic test. It had been chugging up that hill at 35 mph, with hesitations, pedal to the floor. After running with MMO in the crankcase for a bit, it went up that hill at 50 mph, with less hesitation.

Dear Doc, I own a 1988 Mazda 929. The engine often taps loudly when fist started until it warms up. The dealer says not to worry, just change the oil and filter every 3000 miles. My mechanic says that eventually either the camshaft or lifter will be damaged. What is cause and cure? Why does the noise stop when the engine is warm? This is the only problem I have had, I would like to keep the car for a few more years. Are there any service bulletins on this problem? Thank You in advance. Derek C.A)Dear Derek, a quick look on our Mitchell's System shows bulletin # 005-95 on lifter tapping after extended storage. Even though your problem is over night this T.S.B. can apply to your problem. It refers to the hydraulic lifter noise when first stared. However the first thing I would do if you came into my shop with this problem is the following in this order. First is check oil pressure with a SHOP gauge. If the oil pressure is at proper pressure, then I would drain out a quart of oil, put in a quart of Marvel mystery oil. This oil is very thin and will actually flow through very small passage ways and in some cases clean out any small blockages especially in the hydraulic lifters. After putting in the Mystery oil you would take the car out for a 30 minuet ride. The next step is to drain the oil while it is still hot, being careful not to get burnt. The oil will come very fast because of the thinning form the Marvel Mystery oil. Next use the PROPER oil filter, I recommend filling the oil filter with oil before install it.

Q) Dear Doc, I own a 1995 Plymouth Voyager 7 passenger Mini Van, 3Q. Does using Marvel Mystery Oil in the Fuel accomplish anything?A. In our experience, yes, it does. At the temperatures found in the combustion chamber of a cylinder, MM oil will be vaporized. The best theory is that the MM oil acts as a vapor blast and keeps carbon and lead deposits soft and passing through the exhaust valve rather than adhering to the valve, seat, or guide. In these days of 100 LL fuel (with several times the lead content of the original 80/87 octane fuel) this is an important function. Overall, engines operated with MM oil experience significantly less valve and seat problems and have cleaner burning spark plugs

Airplanes?
Every 20 hours of operation, flush and re-lubricate the top end. GasolineMixing in Marvel Mystery Oil for top-end lube is recommended, or even required depending on who you ask.

The disadvantage of vane-type superchargers has always been the rubbing friction of the vanes. Here Judson have shown excellent engineering know-how by mixing food common sense with the very latest techniques. The Judson’s vanes are at an angle (not radial), so that the centrifugal forces are virtually, but not quite, canceled. Additionally, the vanes (or blades) are made from a laminated plastic material which weights half as much as aluminum and which is dimensionally stable at all temperatures from 50 degrees below zero to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Similar vanes are used commercially by Ingersoll-Rand (portable air compressor) and Thor Power Tool (air-powered grinder). A small amount of lubricant is used (about one quart per 1000 miles) but the exact amount is not at all critical. For this purpose, Judson supplies with the kit an aluminum rocker arm cover which incorporates a metering valve, the best boost in gofor the least in doughreadily adjustable to give one drop of oil every 4 to 6 seconds at idle. Incidentally, the lubricant is Marvel Mystery Oil. Judson warns, "do not use any other type or brand of upper cylinder lubricant, as most top oils are primarily a cleaner and not a lubricant." To which we can only add "Amen."

Boats!
Another canned product that old timers carry around and swear by it, is Marvel Mystery Oil. You can use it like WD-40, or as a fuel or oil additive. It has been said to free up piston ringsAlley's Marine Service Mobile Marine Engine Repair and Service on all major brands of marine gas and diesel engines. Serving the Emerald Coast area of Fort Walton Beach and Destin,Florida. I hope you put stablizer in the tank. I like marvel mystery oil in my fuel, on the rocks, please. Got any questions. E-mail us at ralley@gnt.net or call or just stop by with your questions. See ya on the water.

Many debates have taken place on what techniques should be used to preserve antique tools. One school says that to have true collectors value a 100-year old tool should retain all 200 years of dust and dirt. Many English antique tools are completely reconditioned and sold as "like-new". I take a somewhat middle course. I was brought up to respect and care for tools. That meant keeping them clean, occasionally treating wood parts with boiled linseed oil to keep them from drying out and cracking and keeping metal parts cleaned and lightly oiled. Therefore, most of the tools I sell have been lightly cleaned and preserved as described above. This includes washing wooden parts in a solution of equal parts of turpentine, boiled linseed oil and vinegar and carefully drying them and removing all excess oil. Unfinished metal parts, such as blades, are lightly scraped to remove rust or lightly scrubbed with a nylon pad and oil. A light coat of Marvel "Mystery" Oil is left on all the metal parts as protection against moisture.

Traded Sprite on 1960 Morris Traveller woody wagon. I eventually put a Judson supercharger on this fine little car. After I sold it, someone stole it off the lot, and the Highway Patrol from Victorville called and told me to come get it. It was abandoned when it froze up. Probably the supercharger bearings burned out. You had to refill a reservoir with Marvel Mystery Oil™ every 300 miles or so.

here are a couple of other lifter notes worth passing along the first is that marvel mystery oil when added to the motor oil can quiet down those tired, dirty and noisy hydraulic lifters. I do this a couple of days before I change my oil. I am not big fan of oil additives or engine treatments

March 24, 2001With the engine and trans still attached to the hoist, but the engine mounts laying on a couple of jack stands, I tried turning the crank over by hand with a 16”x1/2-drive breaker bar using 6-pt 1” impact socket. It wouldn’t budge. I’ve heard this is quite common for an old engine which hasn’t run for many years (the rings “freeze up” in the cylinder, apparently). Using an old mechanic’s trick, I removed the spark plugs and squirted a generous amount of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL into each cylinder. Six hours later, I tried it again, but this time with a 6-foot pipe extension on the breaker bar. The crank turned about 1/8 turn twice. I repeated the MMO treatment and tried again in six hours. Success! After forcing it to turnover about twice, it started to turn fairly freely. Now I could get to the remaining converter bolts on the flexplate. After separating the engine and trans, I hung the engine on the stand and finished for the day.

Tiffer has been a great sport during the engine room struggles that have dominated her first days of vacation. Don got the engine running, but then after about 20 minutes of running, we suddenly developed a blow-by suggesting a stuck or damaged valve, or worse a piston problem. Don did his best under the valve cover, but finally cried "UNCLE" and called for a mechanic... who, of course, would not be available until Monday next! We spent more time than we liked imagining the worst, picturing ourselves doing an engine rebuild in one of the priciest ports in the Caribe, before we were rescued by a fellow cruiser, Jim of Impetuous III, and a can of Marvel's Mystery Oil! Jim modestly insists that although he is a mechanic by training, he is not a diesel mechanic, but his MMO cure, sprayed into the intake as the engine was running, proved to be just the ticket. Although he and Don reset the valves just to be thorough, they concluded in the end that the blow-by was caused simply a sticky piece of gunk. Once again the TII escapes disaster!

I use Marvel Mystery oil in my car's fuel system from time to time and it seems to clean out the system better than any of these fuel system cleaners.
Richard,
I thought I was the only one who used Marvel Mystery Oil (MM)!
Well, in my 4 cycle afterStandard for break-in on new or overhauled engines, carbon removal from cylinder heads, piston rings, valves, etc. Mix with regular oil for perfect engine operation temperatures to -20° F. Lubricates tight nuts, control hinges and landing gear. Dust does not adhere readily.

I always take some unleaded gas and MMO and run it throught before I pack up for the day.

"Take two marvel mystery oils and call me in the morning..."

In pre-leadfree engines (Motorbikes, Euro cars - including aircooled Citroens and Panhards) I've run 20% 100LL (Aviation Gas) in a blend. Also dose the tanks with STABLE and often a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil (my rabbit's foot in the tank!).

"Marvel oil in the gas is the only way to go!

I have a $1,900 MTD tractor style mower with B&S engine (L head twin). It has over 800 hours and 9 years on it and I mean rough hours (bahaya grass and hot weather). The engine does not use a drop of oil (changed every 30 hours) and the compression is the same as when new. These other guys can have there $5,000 fancy mowers. I'll use that money to buy a truck.

So there's some testimony,
A bow and a swing of the Steson,
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib....

FuLLsMoKe

So... should i ditch the Pennzoil carb cleaner and go for the MMO and also add some MMO into my gas tank? I just hope that MMO will clean out my carb... The pennzoil cleaner doesn't say that it will eat rubber or anything like that... I'm worried!

(I really need to clean the internals of my carb, but I do not want to open it up cuz I'm a bad luck magnet )

Leshrak

I've used both MMO and the gumout carb cleaner on my 186k RX7 I got used with 182k, heres my experience.

MMO made a rather large difference, I poured 2 ounces into each section of each rotor and let it sit for a mere 16 hours (I actually wished I let it sit more.) Came out with a much better running, faster revving machine.

After (about 300 miles) that I poured in a bottle of gumout carb cleaner into my gas tank and filled her up rather well. Honestly it didn't do anything, no noticable difference.

After that (about 200 miles) I poured a bit of MMO into my gas tank, noticed a slight difference after that tank went through, but definately nothing ****-your-pants fantastic.

I ended up rebuilding my carb and pulling all my emissions stuff anyway, it was well overdue, and I'm glad I did it. Had some problems with one of the springs under the floats in the rebuild kit, and just fixed that. But mycars running much better than when I got it (no bucking/surging, no stalling, no bogging down)

I have no experience with mixing it with oil, but I am rather quickly becoming a fan of the lovely stuff... if for no other reason than the obnoxious smoke it poured out the first time I used it (poured down carb.) Before I change my oil I will probably throw a bit in, and drive her around for about 10 minutes. And then throw some more in when I put new oil in.

So basically from my limited experience, MMO gave me a much better and more noticable difference simply when used on the engine, it really seemed too "clean" anything I had causing problems and I would suspect it would have similar though limited results when added too oil before changing it.. I however did not try too use it too clean my carb out, just maintenance on the engine when I got it.

P.S. I'm glad I got a huge bottle

RXcetera

I'd be weary of using anything that might remove the thin film of oil that lines the rotor housings/side housings. That includes carb cleaners (gas tank + spray ins) and oil thinner/remover. Most of these products where made with piston engines in mind, NOT rotaries. Do regular oil changes and feed your baby a little MMO as a treat. If your carb needs cleaning, CLEAN IT! Putting crap in your gas tank or spraying carb cleaner down the barrels wont do **** for it.

FuLLsMoKe

Yea, i figure, "how the hell will that work?!"

Now they have things that claim to "make your gaskets like new" and "stops oil leaks!"

The things now adays...

theNeanderthol

iTrader: (1)

In reply to Pele's first question, instead of any additives (though i do use MMO), whenever i change my oil i just let it drain, then pour a quart of fresh oil in and watch a ton of sludge run out until it eventually runs clean. The MMO cleans the internal working parts, and this helps get out the sludge at the bottom of the oil pan.

FuLLsMoKe

GEEZ!!! I must get me a bottle or two--make that three--of this MMO... I think I'm gonna return that Gumout Carb Cleaner.

Looks like I'm gonna HAVE to re-build my carb myself (I'm a bad luck magnet when it comes to upgrading my car)

kotkovetz

hehe looks like I beat ya fullsmoke, I just went out and bought 2 and put some in my 7, my winterbeater car, and my sisters car

FuLLsMoKe

Blah

At least I am not an "Exhaust Leak"!!!

kotkovetz

Funny thing is my car has an exhaust leak too heh oh well gunna replace it with RB exhaust in a month how do I rid that exhaust leak anyways?...

FuLLsMoKe

Well... be happy when you get that system, cuz i know i am

Leak? Well... I have had a leak with my stock--it was the rusted out gaskets... (obviously the previous owner did not drive it much or never brought it to high enuf RPMs to get out the water)

Pele

iTrader: (28)

I could do that, but it messes up my supply list.

I usually buy 1 case (12 Bottles) of Castrol GTX 20w50, 3 qts of MMO, and 3 CarQuest (WIX) Filters.

That's perfect for 3 whole oil changes which usually runs me about 6 months. (It runs longer with the Honda because I can leave the oil in for 5k Miles.)

When I start the car restoration process this summer, I'll rebuild teh engine and clean everything with parts cleaner or some turpentine. Then I'll know I have a clean engine to pour oil into rather than assuming the DSPO got regular oil changes.