Semi automatic choke
10-19-16, 11:32 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Semi automatic choke
If I remember correctly, way back when, the choke on my SA22 would pop back in when the motor was sufficiently warmed up. That has not been the case for a long time. It's now fully manual. You have to push it back in.
Anybody know how to fix it? What years had this same choke?
Herb
Anybody know how to fix it? What years had this same choke?
Herb
10-20-16, 10:21 AM
#2
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SA/FB Choke
Check the temp sensor wires on the back of the Water Pump.
.
SA had different threads than the FB so you can't switch between SA and FB without changing the water pump or using and adaptor of some sort.
.
There are instructions in the service manual for testing the sensor itself.
.
Broken wires at the sensor are often the cause of your problem.
.
.
SA had different threads than the FB so you can't switch between SA and FB without changing the water pump or using and adaptor of some sort.
.
There are instructions in the service manual for testing the sensor itself.
.
Broken wires at the sensor are often the cause of your problem.
.
10-20-16, 01:12 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
On or Off
Check the temp sensor wires on the back of the Water Pump.
.
SA had different threads than the FB so you can't switch between SA and FB without changing the water pump or using and adaptor of some sort.
.
There are instructions in the service manual for testing the sensor itself.
.
Broken wires at the sensor are often the cause of your problem.
.
.
SA had different threads than the FB so you can't switch between SA and FB without changing the water pump or using and adaptor of some sort.
.
There are instructions in the service manual for testing the sensor itself.
.
Broken wires at the sensor are often the cause of your problem.
.
10-21-16, 10:08 AM
#5
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
You both have bad temp senders if all your carb springs are stock. The stock springs are
just right to pull it back in after it warms up. The temp sender activates the magnet until
it hits approximately 159F then it should let go. Mine works but the fat nikki doesn't have
strong enough spring to pull it back in completely. Of course I have no real choke just the
fast idle cam that the choke cable is attached to now.
just right to pull it back in after it warms up. The temp sender activates the magnet until
it hits approximately 159F then it should let go. Mine works but the fat nikki doesn't have
strong enough spring to pull it back in completely. Of course I have no real choke just the
fast idle cam that the choke cable is attached to now.
Last edited by t_g_farrell; 10-21-16 at 10:12 AM.
11-05-16, 01:34 PM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You both have bad temp senders if all your carb springs are stock. The stock springs are
just right to pull it back in after it warms up. The temp sender activates the magnet until
it hits approximately 159F then it should let go. Mine works but the fat nikki doesn't have
strong enough spring to pull it back in completely. Of course I have no real choke just the
fast idle cam that the choke cable is attached to now.
just right to pull it back in after it warms up. The temp sender activates the magnet until
it hits approximately 159F then it should let go. Mine works but the fat nikki doesn't have
strong enough spring to pull it back in completely. Of course I have no real choke just the
fast idle cam that the choke cable is attached to now.