Wolf 3D Zeroing the Wolf
01-22-06, 07:15 AM
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Zeroing the Wolf
So alot has been said and done.... How the heck do we get to zero the wolf's trigger one? I spent all day trying to figure this out. Using hitmans info for halteck we get this:
Zero the Ignition Timing - VERY IMPORTANT TO DO !
The purpose of "zeroing" the ignition timing is to make sure that the ignition timing values you read on the Haltech are the same as what the actual ignition timing value is on the crankshaft. To make sure they both match up you need zero them. This should be done especially if you have downloaded one of my MAPS from this webpage. The MAPS are supplied with the fuel and ignition graphs done but you will still need to set up the ignition settings to suit your hardware.
To "zero" the ignition timing there are a few steps involved, although it is a rather easy process and a timing light is required. if you do not have a timing light then go out right now and purchase one. It is a tool that every modified car owner should have. With the timing light connected to Lead 1 spark plug lead, start the engine and also have the Haltech system online on your laptop. Now go to the Ignition Setup page and you will see the Timing Lock feature. This feature is not normally visable unless you have the Haltech system online. The Timing Lock should be set to ON. A new setting underneath will come up with a value at which to lock the ignition timing. For most engines there is a TDC mark (O degrees) so this value can be set to zero. Whatever there are marks for measuring timing you can set this value into the Timing Lock and check the timing lines up. For the 13B Turbo engine we have here there are two marks on the crank as pictured previously. One is Yellow and signifies 5 ATDC (-5 degrees) and the other mark is Orange and is at 20 ATDC (-20 degrees). The timing lock must be set to -5 and with the timing light check that the Yellow marker lines up with the pointer. If it does not then the Trigger Angle value will need to be altered. If you need to retard the timing to make it line up you should increase the Trigger Angle value. If you need to Advance the timing to make it line up then decrease the Trigger Angle value. The same adjustments can be made for any engine type. Once the mark lines up you can now go and turn the Timing Lock to OFF.
For a rotary engine you should also connect the timing light to the Trail-1 and Trail-2 spark plug wires. With the timing light connected to Trail-1 check to see if the timing notches on the crank pulley are roughly near the pointer. If they are not and are out 180° (i.e. the Trail-2 marks are near the pointer) then you have either the Trail leads back to front or you have the crank angle sensor 90° out of phase.
NOTE FOR SERIES 6 ENGINES - the timing check process for these engines is a little different. Some models of E6S and E6K are not adjustable for the timing lock, and some that are cannot be locked to -20 degrees to line up the single notch these motors have at 20ATDC.
The easy way is to lock the timing at -5 and check the timing with the light on T1. This should be firing at -20BTDC (20ATDC) and should line up with the notch directly.
The other way for E6S owners to do this check is to cheat a little. Start the engine and lock the timing at 10 degrees, this is the default timing lock number for all Haltech systems. Now with a timing light connected to Lead 1 spark plug lead, check where the mark on the disc lines up. By adjusting the Trigger Angle value make the notch line up with the pointer, remembering that increasing the value retards the ignition and increasing it advances the ignition timing. The engine will die down a bit at this retarded ignition which is normal for now. Once the notch lines up turn the Timing Lock to OFF. Look at your Trigger Angle value and now subtract 30 and enter the new number. For example if the timing lined up at 95 degrees, then a new value of 65 degrees should be entered. Now you are done with zeroing the timing. If you are confused you can email HITman and we will try to answer your questions.
Now NYT has set up a very good and consise write up some time ago on the series 5 CAS and its setup. But for the series six? I need to be 100% sure my Trigger1 is zeroed as should be.
I did try to get the notch and housing mark aligned, but trigger one was at 73degreesBTDC!! now that doesnt seem right! Start ignition was 0* and the the software ignition bar was zero. i worked about with the offset, and i only could get close with an offset of 5(S5 use offset 4). So whats the story? Anyone zeroed a version 4 on an FD? the mark on the housing is 20 After TDC? Right?
Sorry for the long post.... but to cut a long story short, this is a must toi do on any wolf!!!! but no documentation exists anywhere for the FD!
Thanks all
Regards
George
Zero the Ignition Timing - VERY IMPORTANT TO DO !
The purpose of "zeroing" the ignition timing is to make sure that the ignition timing values you read on the Haltech are the same as what the actual ignition timing value is on the crankshaft. To make sure they both match up you need zero them. This should be done especially if you have downloaded one of my MAPS from this webpage. The MAPS are supplied with the fuel and ignition graphs done but you will still need to set up the ignition settings to suit your hardware.
To "zero" the ignition timing there are a few steps involved, although it is a rather easy process and a timing light is required. if you do not have a timing light then go out right now and purchase one. It is a tool that every modified car owner should have. With the timing light connected to Lead 1 spark plug lead, start the engine and also have the Haltech system online on your laptop. Now go to the Ignition Setup page and you will see the Timing Lock feature. This feature is not normally visable unless you have the Haltech system online. The Timing Lock should be set to ON. A new setting underneath will come up with a value at which to lock the ignition timing. For most engines there is a TDC mark (O degrees) so this value can be set to zero. Whatever there are marks for measuring timing you can set this value into the Timing Lock and check the timing lines up. For the 13B Turbo engine we have here there are two marks on the crank as pictured previously. One is Yellow and signifies 5 ATDC (-5 degrees) and the other mark is Orange and is at 20 ATDC (-20 degrees). The timing lock must be set to -5 and with the timing light check that the Yellow marker lines up with the pointer. If it does not then the Trigger Angle value will need to be altered. If you need to retard the timing to make it line up you should increase the Trigger Angle value. If you need to Advance the timing to make it line up then decrease the Trigger Angle value. The same adjustments can be made for any engine type. Once the mark lines up you can now go and turn the Timing Lock to OFF.
For a rotary engine you should also connect the timing light to the Trail-1 and Trail-2 spark plug wires. With the timing light connected to Trail-1 check to see if the timing notches on the crank pulley are roughly near the pointer. If they are not and are out 180° (i.e. the Trail-2 marks are near the pointer) then you have either the Trail leads back to front or you have the crank angle sensor 90° out of phase.
NOTE FOR SERIES 6 ENGINES - the timing check process for these engines is a little different. Some models of E6S and E6K are not adjustable for the timing lock, and some that are cannot be locked to -20 degrees to line up the single notch these motors have at 20ATDC.
The easy way is to lock the timing at -5 and check the timing with the light on T1. This should be firing at -20BTDC (20ATDC) and should line up with the notch directly.
The other way for E6S owners to do this check is to cheat a little. Start the engine and lock the timing at 10 degrees, this is the default timing lock number for all Haltech systems. Now with a timing light connected to Lead 1 spark plug lead, check where the mark on the disc lines up. By adjusting the Trigger Angle value make the notch line up with the pointer, remembering that increasing the value retards the ignition and increasing it advances the ignition timing. The engine will die down a bit at this retarded ignition which is normal for now. Once the notch lines up turn the Timing Lock to OFF. Look at your Trigger Angle value and now subtract 30 and enter the new number. For example if the timing lined up at 95 degrees, then a new value of 65 degrees should be entered. Now you are done with zeroing the timing. If you are confused you can email HITman and we will try to answer your questions.
Now NYT has set up a very good and consise write up some time ago on the series 5 CAS and its setup. But for the series six? I need to be 100% sure my Trigger1 is zeroed as should be.
I did try to get the notch and housing mark aligned, but trigger one was at 73degreesBTDC!! now that doesnt seem right! Start ignition was 0* and the the software ignition bar was zero. i worked about with the offset, and i only could get close with an offset of 5(S5 use offset 4). So whats the story? Anyone zeroed a version 4 on an FD? the mark on the housing is 20 After TDC? Right?
Sorry for the long post.... but to cut a long story short, this is a must toi do on any wolf!!!! but no documentation exists anywhere for the FD!
Thanks all
Regards
George
01-22-06, 06:22 PM
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Hi George,
First off, according to the Mazda Manual (section F - Fuel and Emissions control systems) the timing is checked by using a timing light on the trailing 1 lead and verifing the timing pin and the marking on the stock FD crank angle sensor plate are lining up. Trailing timing is 20* ATDC (leading is 5 ATDC).
Next, according to the installation manual (Ver 4.40 and newer) section 3.2.5, the first reference pulse received (signal generated by the lower toothed wheel), after the sync pulse (generated by the upper 2 toothed wheel) is going to be seen by the wolf as the 60* BTDC position... so a logical mechanical check would be turn the engine over to just before your 60*BTDC mark, open the top of the CAS and verify that as soon as a top wheel tooth passes over the upper pick-up, the very first tooth (in normal direction of rotation) on the bottom wheel that aligns with the pick-up needs to do so as the 60* BTDC timing mark lines up with the pin on the cover... The trick here is that overall timing accuracy is only as good as your ability to measure the marks out...
The rest is ecu setup...
I am wondering why it seemed to work ok before and now (with no mentioned mechanical changes) it no longer does... you may have an intermitant wiring connection issue or a pick-up going bad?
Hope this helps
Gregg
First off, according to the Mazda Manual (section F - Fuel and Emissions control systems) the timing is checked by using a timing light on the trailing 1 lead and verifing the timing pin and the marking on the stock FD crank angle sensor plate are lining up. Trailing timing is 20* ATDC (leading is 5 ATDC).
Next, according to the installation manual (Ver 4.40 and newer) section 3.2.5, the first reference pulse received (signal generated by the lower toothed wheel), after the sync pulse (generated by the upper 2 toothed wheel) is going to be seen by the wolf as the 60* BTDC position... so a logical mechanical check would be turn the engine over to just before your 60*BTDC mark, open the top of the CAS and verify that as soon as a top wheel tooth passes over the upper pick-up, the very first tooth (in normal direction of rotation) on the bottom wheel that aligns with the pick-up needs to do so as the 60* BTDC timing mark lines up with the pin on the cover... The trick here is that overall timing accuracy is only as good as your ability to measure the marks out...
The rest is ecu setup...
I am wondering why it seemed to work ok before and now (with no mentioned mechanical changes) it no longer does... you may have an intermitant wiring connection issue or a pick-up going bad?
Hope this helps
Gregg
01-22-06, 07:13 PM
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Hi George,
It figures, I thought I saw your map somewhere and finally found it, according to the notes you are running the stock FD front cover with the hall effect pick-ups? well no matter as the same process for finding the 60* BTDC mark is going to be the same, just you are looking externally...
Gregg
It figures, I thought I saw your map somewhere and finally found it, according to the notes you are running the stock FD front cover with the hall effect pick-ups? well no matter as the same process for finding the 60* BTDC mark is going to be the same, just you are looking externally...
Gregg
01-23-06, 12:15 AM
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i Gregg,
Thanks. I run an Fd that is the REW so I have no CAS to set. Also, the series six engine has only one mark, and that should be the 20ATDC from L1. now, the user manual is pretty confusing since it does not specify what trailing split there is. So, I must figure out first at what degs the notch should line up with the pin. The quote for the series six i mentioned above is for the halteck. Now for some reason i checked about 3 FD's and all there timing was different!!!
My problem is with Fixed halls and on notch and alignment mark.
There is no documentation with regards to this. What should be you ignition when the marks line up???so then you can set your trigger one.
Thanks
George
ps, the engine is a fresh rebuilt with different timing covers etc....thus the reason for the verification of timing.
Thanks. I run an Fd that is the REW so I have no CAS to set. Also, the series six engine has only one mark, and that should be the 20ATDC from L1. now, the user manual is pretty confusing since it does not specify what trailing split there is. So, I must figure out first at what degs the notch should line up with the pin. The quote for the series six i mentioned above is for the halteck. Now for some reason i checked about 3 FD's and all there timing was different!!!
My problem is with Fixed halls and on notch and alignment mark.
There is no documentation with regards to this. What should be you ignition when the marks line up???so then you can set your trigger one.
Thanks
George
ps, the engine is a fresh rebuilt with different timing covers etc....thus the reason for the verification of timing.
01-23-06, 06:01 AM
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Hi George,
Well just like Aircraft maintenance manuals, there is a small amount of assumption made by the Mazda concerning the mechs ability, if you notice they make no direct mention of checking the leading, since the pick-ups are fixed and there is only one mark you have to check the most retarded ignition event first, then using an advancing type timing light you can then verify the leading... (I have a REW in my RX-3 that I converted to the earlier CAS design)
Again checking where the trigger point is on the fixed system is a matter of tracking the outer tab across the pick-up and then look at the inner tabs for the first one to cross the inner pick-up... mark thet point and compare it to where the actual 60* BTDC mark is and the difference is what you need to add or subtract from the wolf's 60* reference...
Gregg
Well just like Aircraft maintenance manuals, there is a small amount of assumption made by the Mazda concerning the mechs ability, if you notice they make no direct mention of checking the leading, since the pick-ups are fixed and there is only one mark you have to check the most retarded ignition event first, then using an advancing type timing light you can then verify the leading... (I have a REW in my RX-3 that I converted to the earlier CAS design)
Again checking where the trigger point is on the fixed system is a matter of tracking the outer tab across the pick-up and then look at the inner tabs for the first one to cross the inner pick-up... mark thet point and compare it to where the actual 60* BTDC mark is and the difference is what you need to add or subtract from the wolf's 60* reference...
Gregg
01-23-06, 07:37 AM
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Hi George,
Sorry I did not get to finish the last post... anyway
-when the timing pin and mark line up = 20*ATDC
- Stock timing is 5* ATDC Leading and 20* ATDC trialing this means a 15* split
-after setting the wolf trailing timing split to 15* and setting you map (and starting ignition) to 0*
-turn your fuel pump OFF before continuing
-with the timing light on the #1 Trailing ignition lead... crank the engine over and watch where the mark is in relation to the pin, if you did the procedure for finding the reference point as I discribed for the FD fixed system, and you added or subtracted from the actual 60* BTDC mark you made on the wheel then you should be right on the money, if it is not for some reason then simply adjust your trigger 1 as required to bring the marks into alignment
Gregg
Sorry I did not get to finish the last post... anyway
-when the timing pin and mark line up = 20*ATDC
- Stock timing is 5* ATDC Leading and 20* ATDC trialing this means a 15* split
-after setting the wolf trailing timing split to 15* and setting you map (and starting ignition) to 0*
-turn your fuel pump OFF before continuing
-with the timing light on the #1 Trailing ignition lead... crank the engine over and watch where the mark is in relation to the pin, if you did the procedure for finding the reference point as I discribed for the FD fixed system, and you added or subtracted from the actual 60* BTDC mark you made on the wheel then you should be right on the money, if it is not for some reason then simply adjust your trigger 1 as required to bring the marks into alignment
Gregg
01-23-06, 08:39 AM
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so, let see if i got this right.....
I use this map, and the notch on the timing wheel (the V) should line up with the index, with the timing light.
But since the mark is at 20*ATDC, doesnt the map need to be set at 20*?
...the actual TDC of the engine is about half box to the right of the V mark on the wheel no? so, aligning the V with the notch using the trig 1 degrees to get it spot on?
sorry but am lost!!!
Thanks G!
ps, the map enclosed is what i must use right? and have the V and housing marks aligned.... right? from L1
I use this map, and the notch on the timing wheel (the V) should line up with the index, with the timing light.
But since the mark is at 20*ATDC, doesnt the map need to be set at 20*?
...the actual TDC of the engine is about half box to the right of the V mark on the wheel no? so, aligning the V with the notch using the trig 1 degrees to get it spot on?
sorry but am lost!!!
Thanks G!
ps, the map enclosed is what i must use right? and have the V and housing marks aligned.... right? from L1
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01-23-06, 02:54 PM
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Hi George,
Sorry, I screwed up from trying to rush an answer back...
-CORRECTION- you must set the ignition map to -5 from 0 rpm to 875 rpm and from 0% to 107% of load...this will be for this test only
- your trailing split is going to still be 15*
-Do not freak out... remember- stock timing is 5* ATDC Leading and 20* ATDC Trailing.... that is considered retarded timing...anything that is ATDC is going to be a NEGATIVE number on your wolf map... since the wolf only allows you to go to -11* (read as 11* ATDC) and you can not set your leading ign map to read the actual timing mark... so we can use the TRAILING #1 just like MAZDA does...
-again TRAILING #1 and the timing marks are going to be used to verify your trigger 1 is set correct...
-does your timing light have the adjustable advance feature on it? (extra **** or buttons on it)
Gregg
Sorry, I screwed up from trying to rush an answer back...
-CORRECTION- you must set the ignition map to -5 from 0 rpm to 875 rpm and from 0% to 107% of load...this will be for this test only
- your trailing split is going to still be 15*
-Do not freak out... remember- stock timing is 5* ATDC Leading and 20* ATDC Trailing.... that is considered retarded timing...anything that is ATDC is going to be a NEGATIVE number on your wolf map... since the wolf only allows you to go to -11* (read as 11* ATDC) and you can not set your leading ign map to read the actual timing mark... so we can use the TRAILING #1 just like MAZDA does...
-again TRAILING #1 and the timing marks are going to be used to verify your trigger 1 is set correct...
-does your timing light have the adjustable advance feature on it? (extra **** or buttons on it)
Gregg
01-24-06, 12:06 AM
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hi.... yes it has the rpm ****. I am tryin to get one with no ***** and buttons...
So if i get this right... with the ignition set at -5 for start, map at -5 and split at 15, the timing using T1 should align the V with the front housing right?
start ignition must be set at -5 too then since for starting the map is not used and the delivered ignition is from the start ignition... right?
thanks
George
So if i get this right... with the ignition set at -5 for start, map at -5 and split at 15, the timing using T1 should align the V with the front housing right?
start ignition must be set at -5 too then since for starting the map is not used and the delivered ignition is from the start ignition... right?
thanks
George
01-24-06, 05:31 AM
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Ok I will let you know how I did it with mine, although it is a different engine it does work. Get a tape measure and measure around your pulley then divide by 360 this gives you mm per degree. In my case it was easy as my pulley has a diameter of 360mm. Ok now you use the existing timing mark 20 deg ATDC and in my case add 20mm clockwise this gives the 0 point TDC mark it with white paint. Now set your map for both leading and trailing as well as crank timing to 0 degrees. Crank with your timing light on and see where it is. Using the previously determined measurement to work out what your crank sensor is set to roughly. Now reset your reference angle and if your recrank and the timing mark is 0 you are set. Start mapping!! Now the Wolf expects to be set at 60deg advanced and the Wolf allows a adjustment of +- 30 degrees under ignition modifiers so if your light was showing 20ATDC you add +20 (advance) and you should now have 0 degrees on your light.
Cheers
Michael Smith
P.S. Flame suit ON!!!
Cheers
Michael Smith
P.S. Flame suit ON!!!
01-24-06, 11:47 PM
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Hi Michael,
Absolutely... The method you discribe for finding and marking the pulley should have been done prior to any install as it is really the only way to find the 60*BTDC point without using an actual degree wheel... the only down side is it relies on the accuracy of the handmade marks, so once timing is in the ballpark it should be verified by using the factory timing mark... I am not following your last line though...you are refering to making final adjustments with the Trigger 1 input before any ign mappings are entered?
Gregg
P.S. a good an board fire system helps : )
Absolutely... The method you discribe for finding and marking the pulley should have been done prior to any install as it is really the only way to find the 60*BTDC point without using an actual degree wheel... the only down side is it relies on the accuracy of the handmade marks, so once timing is in the ballpark it should be verified by using the factory timing mark... I am not following your last line though...you are refering to making final adjustments with the Trigger 1 input before any ign mappings are entered?
Gregg
P.S. a good an board fire system helps : )
01-25-06, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by GORacing
Hi Michael,
Absolutely... The method you discribe for finding and marking the pulley should have been done prior to any install as it is really the only way to find the 60*BTDC point without using an actual degree wheel... the only down side is it relies on the accuracy of the handmade marks, so once timing is in the ballpark it should be verified by using the factory timing mark... I am not following your last line though...you are refering to making final adjustments with the Trigger 1 input before any ign mappings are entered?
Gregg
P.S. a good an board fire system helps : )
Absolutely... The method you discribe for finding and marking the pulley should have been done prior to any install as it is really the only way to find the 60*BTDC point without using an actual degree wheel... the only down side is it relies on the accuracy of the handmade marks, so once timing is in the ballpark it should be verified by using the factory timing mark... I am not following your last line though...you are refering to making final adjustments with the Trigger 1 input before any ign mappings are entered?
Gregg
P.S. a good an board fire system helps : )
Ok Fire suit fitted!!! The series 6 has a fixed pickup on the front pulley with no adjustment. If you have your TDC marked and your timing set too 0 degrees it will line up if the sensor was 60 degrees advanced. Now I know the sensor isn't 60 degrees but I think it is about 53 degrees advance now that 7 degrees can be picked up by adding 7 degrees advance. This can be done in the Ignition/Ignition modifiers/folder "Overall trim" if you set it to advance the timing +7 it will now be on your 0 timing mark.
Cheers
Michael Smith
Now hiding under flame proof rock...with fire proof suit on!!!!
01-25-06, 10:02 AM
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So the V is the 20ATDC right? TDC should be to the RIGHT of the V by 20 degs....?
I will measure tonight... but i want to know what i am looking for..
George
I will measure tonight... but i want to know what i am looking for..
George
01-25-06, 09:54 PM
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Hi Michael,
I still have my S6 front cover on the shelf but my timing wheel is on the engine, so I can only be eyeballing it with one of my early model degreed pulleys, I would say your estimate is probably close, and in this case the real clincher would be looking at George's original map sent to the forum, and the trigger I input is set to... 52.4*BTDC...So, George if you would reset the trigger1 input to this number, and (for this particular install), the ign map to 0* and all other modifiers to 0* as Michael suggested... then George should (once he marks his timing wheel with 0*) clip his timing light to leading and see 0* and then set his trailing split to 20*, clip his timing light to Trailing 1 and see the V (20*ATDC), for the final verification.
As a note I do not believe we should use the modifiers to fix an improper install (or in this case factory stock ign pickup location), as that is what the Trigger1 seems to be for...
So all of this looks to be coming back full circle...a proper check of the timing marks with a timing light and an ign map set to the stock engine's Base timing before starting, as out lined in the wolf manual, this seems to be the ticket...
Gregg
P.S. Thanks George, Michael, this is fun...
I still have my S6 front cover on the shelf but my timing wheel is on the engine, so I can only be eyeballing it with one of my early model degreed pulleys, I would say your estimate is probably close, and in this case the real clincher would be looking at George's original map sent to the forum, and the trigger I input is set to... 52.4*BTDC...So, George if you would reset the trigger1 input to this number, and (for this particular install), the ign map to 0* and all other modifiers to 0* as Michael suggested... then George should (once he marks his timing wheel with 0*) clip his timing light to leading and see 0* and then set his trailing split to 20*, clip his timing light to Trailing 1 and see the V (20*ATDC), for the final verification.
As a note I do not believe we should use the modifiers to fix an improper install (or in this case factory stock ign pickup location), as that is what the Trigger1 seems to be for...
So all of this looks to be coming back full circle...a proper check of the timing marks with a timing light and an ign map set to the stock engine's Base timing before starting, as out lined in the wolf manual, this seems to be the ticket...
Gregg
P.S. Thanks George, Michael, this is fun...
01-25-06, 10:12 PM
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Hi Rotormotor?
The best picture or figure I have found would be located in the 1993 RX7 factory manual, Chapter C (Engine), Section - Assembly, page C-99, Fig reference 37U0CX-240, this one is nearly perfect as it shows the wheel in the correct position for our discussion, outer tab just past the sync pickup and the reference pickup aligned with the first spoke of the inner part of the wheel... made to order...
Gregg
The best picture or figure I have found would be located in the 1993 RX7 factory manual, Chapter C (Engine), Section - Assembly, page C-99, Fig reference 37U0CX-240, this one is nearly perfect as it shows the wheel in the correct position for our discussion, outer tab just past the sync pickup and the reference pickup aligned with the first spoke of the inner part of the wheel... made to order...
Gregg
Last edited by GORacing; 01-25-06 at 10:15 PM.
01-25-06, 11:31 PM
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ok.... so.... split 20, ignition 0 modifiers 0 not -5*, and using the t1 the V shouls align with the housing mark. As such, the Vis then 20deg ATDC.... from what i gather. Tomorrow is the day i can work on her a bit. i fly to flippin manchester tonight and it spoils the day! but in other words, with the split set to 20 and all other variables zero, one should more the Trig 1 degs so as to align that V with with the housing notch....I must measure that V!!!if that is not 20ATDC then i have to start again.... 
Jeremy, did you get time to measure yours already? I will try take off mine measure it, and take a couple of pics.
Thanks Michael on the insight..... but i lost you a bit with the -7 overall trim...
Gregg.... glad you like this lol
George
Jeremy, did you get time to measure yours already? I will try take off mine measure it, and take a couple of pics.
Thanks Michael on the insight..... but i lost you a bit with the -7 overall trim...
Gregg.... glad you like this lol
George
Last edited by signofinfinity; 01-25-06 at 11:33 PM.
01-26-06, 06:13 AM
#20
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Queensland Australia
Posts: 778
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Hi George,
what I am saying is that the overall trim can be used to Zero the timing of a fixed timing pulley/pickup. If the pickup was not set accurately at 60 degrees advance and the Map was set at 0 degrees advance the error is displayed between timing light and TDC marker you made. This is the error between 60 degrees advance and the current pickup position. This can be fixed by advancing or retarding the timing with the overall trim.
I hope that you can understand what I am saying here and didn't make it worse!!!
Cheers
Michael Smith
P.S why was the map all messed up???
what I am saying is that the overall trim can be used to Zero the timing of a fixed timing pulley/pickup. If the pickup was not set accurately at 60 degrees advance and the Map was set at 0 degrees advance the error is displayed between timing light and TDC marker you made. This is the error between 60 degrees advance and the current pickup position. This can be fixed by advancing or retarding the timing with the overall trim.
I hope that you can understand what I am saying here and didn't make it worse!!!
Cheers
Michael Smith
P.S why was the map all messed up???
01-27-06, 12:58 AM
#24
Passenger
Posts: n/a
does it matter if you instal your wheel 180? how would you know?, also before i installed my engine i looked into the rear rotor housing through the Trailing plug hole until the apex was in the middle and then i made a mark on my timing wheel and then i turned that same apex seal centered into the Leading plug hole and then made a mark and then i averaged the lines and was told that this was TDC, now if my wheel was to be taken off and installed 180 then this would be 180 ATDC ? and would mess things up?
01-27-06, 01:08 AM
#25
Passenger
Posts: n/a
also based on this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=edge
what would you say to use for a 93 FD (series 6?) with factory wiring and CAS?
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=edge
what would you say to use for a 93 FD (series 6?) with factory wiring and CAS?