Wolf 3D Wolf 3D V4 Map
12-02-04, 06:50 AM
#27
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Hi Guys and Gals,
i wrote a little Visual Basic program to "Recalculate" the pulse
duration if you modify your injector size or staging. You need to have a good map
to start from. So say if you have a dyno tuned engine and you decide put in larger
Injectors you can "Recalculate" the injection pulse width with the new injectors.
This gives a close rough map to start from. You need Visual Basic runtime files to
run it. You should not run this over the MAP more that twice as you could create
errors. It should be noted that you shouldn't really run over 80% duty cycle. In
saying that I have run up to 10ms which seems ok below about 6000rpm. I work
on getting the pulse duration below 6ms but maybe I am fussy!
http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/freqgengui/ is the page with the
link to download the zip file. Just unzip it and if you have VB runtime files it should
run!
If you need the runtime files.
http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/freqgengui/
has them. This is a Home page for another program I wrote but it does have the
required files you will need. It only does one Map point at a time but it is quicker
than guestamation!!! Just type in your present setup and pulse width then the
new setup and press Recalculate and the NEW pulse width will appear at the
bottom. Always round up to keep your motor RICH!!!
Regards
Michael Smith
i wrote a little Visual Basic program to "Recalculate" the pulse
duration if you modify your injector size or staging. You need to have a good map
to start from. So say if you have a dyno tuned engine and you decide put in larger
Injectors you can "Recalculate" the injection pulse width with the new injectors.
This gives a close rough map to start from. You need Visual Basic runtime files to
run it. You should not run this over the MAP more that twice as you could create
errors. It should be noted that you shouldn't really run over 80% duty cycle. In
saying that I have run up to 10ms which seems ok below about 6000rpm. I work
on getting the pulse duration below 6ms but maybe I am fussy!
http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/freqgengui/ is the page with the
link to download the zip file. Just unzip it and if you have VB runtime files it should
run!
If you need the runtime files.
http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/freqgengui/
has them. This is a Home page for another program I wrote but it does have the
required files you will need. It only does one Map point at a time but it is quicker
than guestamation!!! Just type in your present setup and pulse width then the
new setup and press Recalculate and the NEW pulse width will appear at the
bottom. Always round up to keep your motor RICH!!!
Regards
Michael Smith
Last edited by Michael Smith; 12-02-04 at 07:01 AM. Reason: I blew the HTML address
12-02-04, 06:58 AM
#28
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DOH!!!! angelfire will not direct link GRRRRRR
http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/freqgengui/ Go to this page and it is at the bottom to download.
Sorry for leading you up the garden path!!!!
Michael Smith
http://www.angelfire.com/wizard/freqgengui/ Go to this page and it is at the bottom to download.
Sorry for leading you up the garden path!!!!
Michael Smith
12-02-04, 07:02 AM
#29
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Thanks Michael, I will keep you updated! Should get my base map set up pretty soon....we are nit picking it at the moment. I will set up The modified map up soon. Many a thanks go to nyt and evilrotors!!
12-03-04, 07:30 PM
#30
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I found a error in my program and I have updated it. It onlt caused problems if you went from no staging to staging it is very obvious when it does the calculation as it is a very low pulse width. I have fixed it so if you have downloaded it please get the new one as it fixes that problem!
Michael Smith
Michael Smith
12-06-04, 10:40 AM
#32
Is this maybe 82 MON (Motor Octane Number)? I can't believe they have worse gas than 87 PON (Pump Octane Number) anywhere, even Malta.
82 MON would come out to approx 86.5 PON.
I would say take 5 points off all the Ignition load bands, just for safety. That is not great gasoline for a boosted car.
82 MON would come out to approx 86.5 PON.
I would say take 5 points off all the Ignition load bands, just for safety. That is not great gasoline for a boosted car.
12-06-04, 11:35 AM
#34
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yep folks that's the crude reality!!! I just got the the official figures! I wasnt given any data where its PON or MON, however our LRP (lead replacement petrol) is 82 osctane at the pump with 81.5 on the unleaded!! The T78 conversion is abit far off. I will run max 12 psi with pump gas, with over all trim at 12.6 fuel and - 10 on the overall ignition!!
ps, i was told this is a stock rx7 plugin map....you like. I posted on another thread....but here is;
ps, i was told this is a stock rx7 plugin map....you like. I posted on another thread....but here is;
12-06-04, 12:26 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by signofinfinity
yep folks that's the crude reality!!! I just got the the official figures! I wasnt given any data where its PON or MON, however our LRP (lead replacement petrol) is 82 osctane at the pump with 81.5 on the unleaded!! The T78 conversion is abit far off. I will run max 12 psi with pump gas, with over all trim at 12.6 fuel and - 10 on the overall ignition!!
ps, i was told this is a stock rx7 plugin map....you like. I posted on another thread....but here is;
ps, i was told this is a stock rx7 plugin map....you like. I posted on another thread....but here is;
ps....chris was great in handing me over this map.... (his credit)
12-06-04, 02:13 PM
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..it actually didnt run.
i guess i gotta start re calibrating my sensors and do it all...bit by bit.
...i really cant get it figured out.
..guess blowing my engine is a nightmare, and keeps scaring me off...
me and my wire in. I must get a start somewhere!!
i guess i gotta start re calibrating my sensors and do it all...bit by bit.
...i really cant get it figured out.
..guess blowing my engine is a nightmare, and keeps scaring me off...
me and my wire in. I must get a start somewhere!!
Last edited by signofinfinity; 12-06-04 at 02:27 PM.
12-07-04, 02:11 AM
#39
Senior Member
Not to further add to the confusion... REALLY not to add to it.. But
Sorry Reading all this from work and not looking at the maps for anything sofar as I dont have the software installed here at work. So if I am off base here forgive me.
NYT has a point he mentioned people may have overlooked. PIG RICH!!! You MUST make it Pig Rich and work it thinner to make it run properly without killing your motor. It should make your eyes bleed with fuel at first. (My eyes are watering thinking of it)
Now for the whole map thing here....
Myself..I have done a healthy couple handfuls of N/A 7s some race cars most street.. with 3.x and 4.x Wolfies.
I get a very VERY conservative ignition map set up for a engine I am not certain of the potential of.
Then I get a FAT fuel curve across the board. At low RPM Fat settings across the RPM range.
Fatter as you go up in load.
Then thin the idle areas out a bit so it will run theoretically.
Then cranking fuel low.. and add fuel till it starts. If it pukes rich after starting.. thin the fuel in the areas it tried to idle till you find a harmony to get it to live a bit.
Then keep thinning things till you have a fairly stable idle.
THEN.. I change the local pulse widths near idle to the same values. (Going up in RPM)
Then keep nursing the engine up in RPM till you have some idea how it will handle the mixture.. thinning and fattening as needed to give you some range in the motor.
Doint this you will get a BASIC idea of your individual fuel requirements no-load as the Revs increase.
Keep moving the engine through the revs gently adjusting as needed.
No Acceleration enrichment while doing this so it doesnt effect the maps adversely.
Get a feel for how your engine needs fuel. You would not believe how different the requirements are for two IDENTICAL motors made with porting that is "the same". Every Engine needs different fuel amounts. It may be close.. but you will need to fine tune it. You dont need a dyno to see what it is doing. Just gently let the revs move up and you will get a feel for how it is responding.
REALLY... if you have a problem getting it fine tuned by ear.. just getting it from barely running Fat to nice.. or from gasping falling out lean to nice.. you may want to enlist a pro to help.
All the maps in the world will not fix it for you by simply plugging them in and crossing your fingers it is right. You need to be able to make effective changes.
(OK going back to work)
Sorry Reading all this from work and not looking at the maps for anything sofar as I dont have the software installed here at work. So if I am off base here forgive me.
NYT has a point he mentioned people may have overlooked. PIG RICH!!! You MUST make it Pig Rich and work it thinner to make it run properly without killing your motor. It should make your eyes bleed with fuel at first. (My eyes are watering thinking of it)
Now for the whole map thing here....
Myself..I have done a healthy couple handfuls of N/A 7s some race cars most street.. with 3.x and 4.x Wolfies.
I get a very VERY conservative ignition map set up for a engine I am not certain of the potential of.
Then I get a FAT fuel curve across the board. At low RPM Fat settings across the RPM range.
Fatter as you go up in load.
Then thin the idle areas out a bit so it will run theoretically.
Then cranking fuel low.. and add fuel till it starts. If it pukes rich after starting.. thin the fuel in the areas it tried to idle till you find a harmony to get it to live a bit.
Then keep thinning things till you have a fairly stable idle.
THEN.. I change the local pulse widths near idle to the same values. (Going up in RPM)
Then keep nursing the engine up in RPM till you have some idea how it will handle the mixture.. thinning and fattening as needed to give you some range in the motor.
Doint this you will get a BASIC idea of your individual fuel requirements no-load as the Revs increase.
Keep moving the engine through the revs gently adjusting as needed.
No Acceleration enrichment while doing this so it doesnt effect the maps adversely.
Get a feel for how your engine needs fuel. You would not believe how different the requirements are for two IDENTICAL motors made with porting that is "the same". Every Engine needs different fuel amounts. It may be close.. but you will need to fine tune it. You dont need a dyno to see what it is doing. Just gently let the revs move up and you will get a feel for how it is responding.
REALLY... if you have a problem getting it fine tuned by ear.. just getting it from barely running Fat to nice.. or from gasping falling out lean to nice.. you may want to enlist a pro to help.
All the maps in the world will not fix it for you by simply plugging them in and crossing your fingers it is right. You need to be able to make effective changes.
(OK going back to work)
Last edited by SPiN Racing; 12-07-04 at 02:14 AM.
12-07-04, 02:42 AM
#40
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actually I was working on the Map by taking her on the road.... but yeh, i 'll take your advice. Re calibrate all my sensors, tps etc, richen it up, and work my way up the rpm curve. Then i can start on the loading.... It's gonna be one hell of a long road!!! Thanks a million.Will post a better map shortly.
12-07-04, 12:37 PM
#41
Senior Member
GOOOD... That is the next place after getting it running decent in the driveway. 
YOu are there then.. adjusting in different RPMs and loads as you drive around endlessly.. LOL
Luckily in St. Pete where I live.. (Suburbia from hell) We have a LONG road through a industrial complex that is around 3 miles with NO sidestreets other than a couple industrial businesses... and its 5 lanes wide.. and they are WIDE lanes. So I can make multiple long high load pulls in each pass for finer tuning.
Then re-adjust and do it again. 5th gear.. low RPM pulls are nice.. but can be interesting cause you really build up some speed.
YOu are there then.. adjusting in different RPMs and loads as you drive around endlessly.. LOL
Luckily in St. Pete where I live.. (Suburbia from hell) We have a LONG road through a industrial complex that is around 3 miles with NO sidestreets other than a couple industrial businesses... and its 5 lanes wide.. and they are WIDE lanes. So I can make multiple long high load pulls in each pass for finer tuning.
Then re-adjust and do it again. 5th gear.. low RPM pulls are nice.. but can be interesting cause you really build up some speed.
12-07-04, 01:14 PM
#42
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... heh you definately never heard of Malta then!!! well...1st. we got not roads so long (island is 27 miles long and some18 wide) 2nd. the only roads half as long are death traps 3rd. pot holes etc etc are the call of the day!!!
...sometimes i wonder why i bought an RX7!!! hehe a CAT would have been better!! but i wil follow your advice.
ps. if you guys dont hear from me in a while...hehe change my nick to saint infinity!! lol
...sometimes i wonder why i bought an RX7!!! hehe a CAT would have been better!! but i wil follow your advice.
ps. if you guys dont hear from me in a while...hehe change my nick to saint infinity!! lol
12-07-04, 01:40 PM
#43
Senior Member
YIKES!
Sooo you need creative tuning space
SOunds like a good reason to have a 488 rear in it.. Top end is kinda meaningless there I gather....
Well Good Luck on the short spurts for tuning!! Try to give her a WHOA before you get wet!
Sooo you need creative tuning space
SOunds like a good reason to have a 488 rear in it..
Top end is kinda meaningless there I gather....Well Good Luck on the short spurts for tuning!! Try to give her a WHOA before you get wet!
01-11-05, 11:40 PM
#49
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ps...and the detonation was kindly enlightened by NTY...my premix with lousy fuel we got here was way off!! I was running some 30:1 if not less!!! we'll see how it goes! any of you guy got an FC mechanical OMP to fit into the OMP adapter of the FD? perhaps i could control my oil intake better!!