Wolf 3D Stand Alone help
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Stand Alone help
Here's what I got, I've got a 13B-RE in a S4. My tuner who has done work with a Wolf EMS before is unable to get this running. After about 30 hours trying different things and talking to various people from friends at AEM to Chris Greene from Wolf. The car will still not run.
Unfortunately I don't know squat about stand alones, but this is how my tuner described the problem to me going from what I remember. The distributer is sending mixed signals and the RPM signal will typically be at 100, but then spike to 5500. I have no idea what he's talking about. However I'd like either some input or set up a time to have someone on the forum who's got extensive knowledge on Wolf EMS to talk to my tuner.
At this point, my current option is to remove the Wolf and get something entirely new.
Thanks in advance.
Unfortunately I don't know squat about stand alones, but this is how my tuner described the problem to me going from what I remember. The distributer is sending mixed signals and the RPM signal will typically be at 100, but then spike to 5500. I have no idea what he's talking about. However I'd like either some input or set up a time to have someone on the forum who's got extensive knowledge on Wolf EMS to talk to my tuner.
At this point, my current option is to remove the Wolf and get something entirely new.
Thanks in advance.
#2
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Sounds like you're getting interference from the CAS or it's wiring back to the ECU.
If you got a spare CAS, I would try and swap that in to see if that helps.
If the problem is still there, try and isolate the CAS wiring.
Keep the spark plug wires away from the CAS wiring.
Keep the alternator wires away from the CAS wiring.
Wow, the US Wolf dealer is stumped with this problem?
I would just dump the Wolf and get a Haltech.
-Ted
If you got a spare CAS, I would try and swap that in to see if that helps.
If the problem is still there, try and isolate the CAS wiring.
Keep the spark plug wires away from the CAS wiring.
Keep the alternator wires away from the CAS wiring.
Wow, the US Wolf dealer is stumped with this problem?
I would just dump the Wolf and get a Haltech.
-Ted
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mine does the same thing when its cold, the engine just isnt turning over quick enough. i have to jump my car when it does that
there is a wiring fix for it somewhere, however i cannot find it.
there is a wiring fix for it somewhere, however i cannot find it.
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This is a common problem with all Wolfs on the first fire. You need to have a fully charged battery. I always use 2 batteries to over come this problem. I had it happen on both my V3 and V4 on the first firup!!
Michael Smith
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The CAS turns out to be fine, the spark plug wires and alternator wires are all isolated away from the CAS wiring. The CAS is stock and the 2 batteries to get things fired for the first time has been attempted.
In regards to Chris Greene, there seems to have been some miscommunication between my tuner and Chris, hopefully the two of them can resolve the problem with my car.
However, while this thread is going, what other issues have people had with getting their Wolf run car fired up for the first time?
In regards to Chris Greene, there seems to have been some miscommunication between my tuner and Chris, hopefully the two of them can resolve the problem with my car.
However, while this thread is going, what other issues have people had with getting their Wolf run car fired up for the first time?
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The single biggest problem was for me good power and earth. I have fused cable directly from my battery. Also with V3 ecu's the earth needs to be connected in the ignition cable as it is separate from the earth common on the ECU the result is no spark. Followed next would be cranking errors and then aligning the ECU and the spark table. Then into the tuning issues just like every other ECU.
Michael Smith
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i wander how many times this has been posted....it is a frustrating thing with the wolf and mazdas low output reluctor sensors.... i think michael and others have answered this question 100 times on here on wat to do, poor guys must be over it haha... so i will give u a quik run thru.
im assuming your using crank angle sensor from s4. and not dizzy and twin coil.
i have ordered a reluctor interface box from wolf which is the supposed fix for the problem your encountering...i have one in the post and should be here by tomorrow. i believe this to completely clear the signal errors that both you and many others get. i will post my success as soon as its up and running. (2 days at most)
if the system is being cranked over for the first time you need 13volts, and everything on the car to be correctly configured. as michael said qualilty power and earth essential. but if u dont have all the correct config. in software and the appropriate calibration tables loaded for the inputs/outputs your using, then the motor will not want to start, and u will waste battery voltage, and more errors will result. the things mentioned above must all be considered, ensure your cas polarity is correct, check your ign. timing at crank. speed. does it match the display on the handset... (if your getting errors, your probably getting poor or no output from coils..hence your ignitors arent charging them. give it heaps of battery grunt)
ensure the air gap between sensors in the dizzy is 0.1mm.
is your cas modifyed or standard?? do as search for cas wiring on this forum if you need the setup of the software for trigger seq.(for standard cas) i believe posted by Nyt and michael, as well as others. there is also valueable help for other things, incl. maps to get u started.
go on wolf site for correct cas wiring....go to ver.4 support. and dealer tech.2 i think for mazda cas wiring in pdf form.
have fun. Kyle.
im assuming your using crank angle sensor from s4. and not dizzy and twin coil.
i have ordered a reluctor interface box from wolf which is the supposed fix for the problem your encountering...i have one in the post and should be here by tomorrow. i believe this to completely clear the signal errors that both you and many others get. i will post my success as soon as its up and running. (2 days at most)
if the system is being cranked over for the first time you need 13volts, and everything on the car to be correctly configured. as michael said qualilty power and earth essential. but if u dont have all the correct config. in software and the appropriate calibration tables loaded for the inputs/outputs your using, then the motor will not want to start, and u will waste battery voltage, and more errors will result. the things mentioned above must all be considered, ensure your cas polarity is correct, check your ign. timing at crank. speed. does it match the display on the handset... (if your getting errors, your probably getting poor or no output from coils..hence your ignitors arent charging them. give it heaps of battery grunt)
ensure the air gap between sensors in the dizzy is 0.1mm.
is your cas modifyed or standard?? do as search for cas wiring on this forum if you need the setup of the software for trigger seq.(for standard cas) i believe posted by Nyt and michael, as well as others. there is also valueable help for other things, incl. maps to get u started.
go on wolf site for correct cas wiring....go to ver.4 support. and dealer tech.2 i think for mazda cas wiring in pdf form.
have fun. Kyle.
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Well, I've got a reluctor interface box on order, hopefully this clears up the issues I'm having. If an update is available, I'd like to hear if this box cleared up the issue.
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Well the reluctor interface box didn't quite fix my problem, but after some research I may have stumbled upon the problem. I'm using my stock coil packs, but I've read the stock T2 trailing coils will not work with the Wolf. It's been awhile, but I swear I've read some people are using FD or MSD coils with their Wolf EMS's.
I don't remember if this was because the stock T2 trailing coils do not work. Can anyone elaborate or confirm that the stock T2 trailing coils will not work? If they do not work, is the FD coils or MSD coils the way to get around this issue?
Thanks in advance
I don't remember if this was because the stock T2 trailing coils do not work. Can anyone elaborate or confirm that the stock T2 trailing coils will not work? If they do not work, is the FD coils or MSD coils the way to get around this issue?
Thanks in advance
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the coils will work, the ignitor will NOT
im using a 3rd gen ignitor to fire my trailing coils, another choise would be a bosh 2 channel ignitor, or 2 one channel ignitors. i have the wiring diagram somewhere, a seach of this forum should also turn it up.
-jacob
im using a 3rd gen ignitor to fire my trailing coils, another choise would be a bosh 2 channel ignitor, or 2 one channel ignitors. i have the wiring diagram somewhere, a seach of this forum should also turn it up.
-jacob
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Thanks Jacob, I've been trying to start my motor for the first time on the stock ignitor. It almost wants to start. Finally, I think I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now. Hopefully, I'll finally be able to fire up my motor for the first time this week.
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well.. it should start with the stock ignitor wired in, just the trailing coils will fire weak.. or not at all
it will start with just the leading coil.. just not as easy
it will start with just the leading coil.. just not as easy
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The motor is a fresh rebuild, so at first I figured I was having the usual fresh rebuild starting problems. After going through the list of fixes for a first time fire, I figured it had to be an issue with the EMS.
If a fresh rebuild will fire with the just leading coils then it's quite possibly some other issue. However I'm still stumped as to what the issue is. Everything has been gone over several times to make sure everything is set up properly.
Thanks for the quick responses, back to more research.
If a fresh rebuild will fire with the just leading coils then it's quite possibly some other issue. However I'm still stumped as to what the issue is. Everything has been gone over several times to make sure everything is set up properly.
Thanks for the quick responses, back to more research.
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well it _can_ run, i ran my cosmo on leading only for a few weeks untill i got my 3rd gen ignigtor
your getting a steady rpm signal right? sure your getting fuel? you say it 'alsmot wants to start', id try retarding the ignition a lil more.. maby a little more fuel, maby both etc.
your getting a steady rpm signal right? sure your getting fuel? you say it 'alsmot wants to start', id try retarding the ignition a lil more.. maby a little more fuel, maby both etc.
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My New engine wouldn't start with only leading coils no matter long I tried. With a run in or older engine they start and run with less power. If you lose your leading coils it is almost impossible to start the engine. The TII ignitor doest work with a V4 Wolf. I used 4 X bosch single ignitor and 4 X 716 coils. Rather expensive but it works well.
Michael Smith
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