Yea, but for some reason I get a lot of backfire and the signal errors just keep counting when I have it set at 0. Runs perfect set at 4

 

Sorry took so long to get back to this thread, im having a bunch of unrelated issues, making this take longer than i expected

Right now im using NYT's map with the offset set to 0, I havent had enought time to try to stablilze the idle, make sure 100% the CAS is zero'd, and try the exact same timming/fuel settings with the offset set to 4 so i cant say which way works better/is correct


Going way wolfems offtopic, is it common for an engine that hasnt been run in a while to smoke like a bastard when its let to warm up its first time. It was a thick white smoke, that didnt smell like anything

-Jacob

 

if it doesnt smell like anything its water... condensation from exhaust most likely.

if it smells sweet, its coolant in there

if its greyish/blue and smells like oil, well its oil

black is gas

 

Little more follow up, I was running with the zero offest

So i tried setting offset to 4


Car idled the same, and had the same 14.9afr (what afr should i shoot for at idle. Im using your fuel and igntion maps to tune from , well before i start im going to richen them up a bunch, and work down )

 

14.9 at idle? heh my car idles around 12-12.5:1 as do most cars... if you set the offset to 4, use a timing light, make sure your L1/T1 are where they should be. just because it idles doesnt mean its proper.

 

And that right there shows how diff motors really are. Ive got a stock port cosmo re, using your map got over 15:1afr's before i droped em down a bit

I will do the timming light thing tommorow, i dont have a light with a advance/retart function, and i cant get my motor to run at 0*, so i have to buy a good light. Tommorow will tell

-Jacob

 

wow my car wont even idle at 15:1, are you sure that is accuratE? what o2 sensor are you using?

 

heh you actually have to get the motor to run at -5, not 0 =]

 

You don't need an advance timing light, or have the car running to zero the timing.

The way I set my timing, was to set the crank igntion timing to whatever number I wanted to check with the light. I'm my case I had a 10*BTDC timing mark. So I would set the cranking timing to that value, disable the fuel injectors and just crank and adjust until it was at the mark.

Does that make sense? Been drinking a lot of single malt scotch tonight...

 

Innovate's LM-1 and LMA-3 Kit.

Ill re-calibrate the o2 sensor before i run it next, i calibrated it not to long after i filled my shop with exhaust so it could be wrong




Im pretty sure i understand. In the case of my V4, id set starting ing timming to whatever i wanted, i could set it to whatever the stock mark for L1 is, crank it over with no fuel and check with the light i have now. Sounds good to me


-Jacob

 

Wierd so your car actually runs set at 0. Mine wont even start like that, just backfire and signal errors start counting. I set my idle to 12.8/1 AFR, nice idle, very smooth. Try backing it down to 12 advanced instead of 45 and see if it cleans up, mine sure did.

Ahh yea I wanted to ask you if you got your trailing going with that bosch ignitor. I just picked up the plug from porsche yesterday, so I'll be hooking it up soon.

 

i dont think his car is actually idling at that high AFR. Any car i lean out past 13.x starts sputtering and dies out. and i dont think i've posted a map with 45 degree advance for anyone to actually use so I doubt hes running 45.

as evilrotor said, if you can mark your crank pulley with different timing marks (i know the racing beat pulley has a variety of them on there, youre not limited to having to lock your timing at -5 which can often prove to be a pain in the ***).

 

Hm, ill try that tommorow. And no, i have not tried the ignitor yet, i havent even ordered it yet =[

 

out of curiosity how much do those bosch igniters go for? FD igniters are ussually easy to find and work AMAZING. we have a car running deep into the 9s on wolf using just an FD igniter and an msd 6a

 

in excess of $100, the closest one i could find was 150ish, and wasnt even the correct one

Do you have wiring diagram's for the FD ignitor? if so, how much does an FD ignitor go for?

-Jacob

 

you can find fd igniters easy.. put a WTB up in the sale sections. they dont go for much. and yeah, i have a wiring diagram somewhere.. if not i can just tell you how i have mine wired up

it controlls the leading and the trailing coils fine. i use the msd 6a as amplification on the leading. romeo has his car setup the same way, he runs mid 9s at well over 30psi of boost. its definitely more than enough ignition =]

 

Yea you can probably find a used for one cheap, but if you want brand new... be ready to pay around $400. I payed $150 for my bosch igniter, and it was $10 for a plug from porsche. They use them in the porsche 911 and its made by bosch, that alone just says enough about the quality. Motec actually also recommends these igniters in their setup.

 

Alrighty, i just got an ignitor for $30 shipped, so if ya get some time if you could shoot me the wiring for the ignitor it would be greatly appreciated

-Jacob

 

ill post the info tomorrow..

when i wired mine up either the haltech wiring diagram was wrong or the FSM was wrong and i dont remember which. ill check on my car and post it up tomorrow... ill have to dig my car out tomorrow after work, theres at least a foot of snow burying it =[

 

sorry just got home from a long day at work, ill get to it tomorrow

 

Not a prob, i got enought small thigns to wrap up that this can wait

 

ok, hope you appreciate this.. had to dig through feet of snow to get to m car / get my hood open.. my feet are gonna be wet all day at work now =[

anyway, this is looking at it with the pins on the igniter facing up, looking at the top side of it. Pins from left to right. This matches up with the diagram on page G-16 of the FSM. Make sure you have the connector from the FD harness with the igniter also.

PIN 1 - Trailing Wolf (T1)
PIN 2 - To Trailing Coil (T1)
PIN 3 - Trailing Wolf (T2)
PIN 4 - 12V IN (switched)
PIN 5 - To Trailing Coil (T2)
PIN 6 - Leading Wolf
PIN 7 - To Leading Coil
PIN 8 - Unused (bridged to pin 7 inside the igniter)


from the FSM.

 

Lol.. thanks hope you dry off or dont work outside

Ill give this a try asap, thanks again

-Jacob

 

Crackhedmel

There are 2 reasons you may be reading 14.5 at idle and have a good idle.

1: You have your emissions hooked up and its adding air into the system and thus gives you the perfect reading (this happens onf FD's too).

2: Your wideband is miss calibrated


Usually the perfect idle is at 12.5 or so WITHOUT any air pumps or anything to affect the reading. If you air pump was connected, you would probably see 14.5 at the sensor even though the motor is actually at about 12.5.

I hope your car is running decent now....

 

Lol... its not my air pump. i have no emmission's equipment



Alright, i finished up my exhaust today (onlky thing i had left) and went back to trying to get the car running.

Now its very hesitant to start. I adjusted fuel and ignition in both directions trying to get it running. It would fire but rarly enough to start. I did manage to get it running good once. I changed my offset from 0 to 4 and it started up and sounded great. almost held an idle. then 10sec later, just died. Couldnt get anything for a while, just before i called it quits and left my starter to cool i was getting it to miss again however no start with the offset set either way

Also with the offset set to 4 i stoped getting the error count on my laptop.