Wolf 3D My Tuning
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My Tuning
Well here it is soo far, I have a Innovate unit for a WB and stock twins for 2 more weeks....... ps im way rich.....ha ha what do you think soo far? also when i have a semi warm engine after a shut down it doesnt like to start well, takes a few times, heat soak in the air temp sensor?
the input description is how i have my innovate setup
and the cold start is just my car warming up until cooling fans kick on at 70
and the toorich is a road test
P.S. right click and save to disk, i cannot upload .log files to this site
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremylarso...escrjeremy.log
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremylarso...tartbetter.log
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremylarson/toorich.log
Jeremy
the input description is how i have my innovate setup
and the cold start is just my car warming up until cooling fans kick on at 70
and the toorich is a road test
P.S. right click and save to disk, i cannot upload .log files to this site
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremylarso...escrjeremy.log
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremylarso...tartbetter.log
http://home.comcast.net/~jeremylarson/toorich.log
Jeremy
Still tuning....
*--------> Even better.
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frustrated
well i fixed the wooosh noise (aux 5 polarity was wrong) but i still cant boost past 7 psi !! i checked my silinoid and it is ok and clicks fast when i set the boost activation pressure down below my realtime load but why cant i boost?
can somebody look at my map and see if it is a setting? BTW aux 4 is controlling what aux 1 used to (charge control silinoid) or is there something else i need to check?
can somebody look at my map and see if it is a setting? BTW aux 4 is controlling what aux 1 used to (charge control silinoid) or is there something else i need to check?
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: North Queensland Australia
How large is the bleed orfice???(the hole that vents to the atmosphere) If the bleed hole is too small then it will be the limiting factor in your boost control . The bleed should be big enough to let the boost vent without opening the wastegate(creep) The Soleniod then should be closed with no power on to be fail safe. The soleniod is then controlled to set boost pressure. Don't forget it not ony has to vent the air going to the wastgate but also the air already in the wastegate. Sometimes you need to put a restrictor in the line to the manifold to make the soleniod more sensitive. This does add to the activation time of the wastegate but as long as you don't go too small or the line is not too long,(if you need a restictor place it right near the soleniod on the manifold side) you should be o.k. I have had a look at how the Wolf boost control works and I think it could be better. Like having a maximum boost pressure set in psi for each 125 rpm and let the rest of the setup be kept within the control of the ecu.
Michael Smith
Michael Smith
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well it is set up like oem fd, stock rails stock setup, so the silinoid goes to the rail that goes down to the turbos and intake elbow, so when the silinoid opens it allows suction to happen from the intake elbow to the wastegate, i checked flow just now and it is good, i am also not sure if my prespool is working either, suction should work better than venting to the atmosphere right?
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: North Queensland Australia
The soleniod has a vent on one end with a little filter. If you have a standard boost control system did you place the diodes across the soleniod to increase the response of the soleniod. My guess is that your dynamic control of your turbo is not working either. It needs to be on at 2700rpm and the throttlebody does the rest.
Michael Smith
Michael Smith
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I am talking about solinoids I and J in the workshop manuel, there is no filter on them, when they switch on they allow flow to blow through the back of the wastegate and through the solinoid and to the intake elbow, when its closed it blocks that path and when the boost builds up behind the wastegate enough it pushes the wastegate open (7psi). also how would a diode help a electromagnet? and what do you mean by: "My guess is that your dynamic control of your turbo is not working either. It needs to be on at 2700rpm and the throttlebody does the rest." ?
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: North Queensland Australia
ok. there is a set of little solenoids that manage if one or both turbos are working. This is the dynamic control it allows 1 or 2 turbos to work. It has a little filter on the end. The other solenoids for boost control and precharge are vented back to the inlet manifold and have no filter. If the Dynamic control of your turbo's doesn't work you wil only have 1 turbo running the primary one. Once the little black solenoid opens and you open the throttle at about 2700rpm enough vacuum is present on the line to the dynamic control to allow the second turbo to come online. If this doesn't happen I suspect that you would have low boost problems as the single turbo chokes off your motor! In the Wolf manual it states that diodes should be placed across the solenoids as the wolf has no BACK EMF protection(large voltage spike protection) P32 in the install manual.
Michael Smith
P.S very complex beasty I prefer my TII with one turbo much simpler
Michael Smith
P.S very complex beasty I prefer my TII with one turbo much simpler
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i have no other problems besides the psi, my charge relief works fine (aux 5) my charge control works fine (aux4 was 1) and my turbo control (aux3) all work fine, so that is why i am confused, its like the wolf isnt doing something right.....
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 778
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From: North Queensland Australia
You know what, maybe you maybe your soleniod is not opening at all. The solenoid needs to open to provide boost control above 7 psi. By default the system is designed to limit boost if the solenoid fails. Under the boost controller the solenoid should be open until about 6.5 psi and then close. This stops boost creep. My guess is that possibly the solenoid may be stuck or could you have a crook Aux output. As I said before they need to have a diode fitted across the solenoid(and have it the right way around) to protect the Wolf from damage in the generic version ...plugins are different they must have some form of inbuilt protection. Can you put a meter on the AUX output at the ecu and take it for a drive. If you see 12 Volts all the time your AUX output is faulty or configured wrong , or if you see 0Volts all the time you may have a wiring fault. It should be between say 3 and 9 volts and be varying with a change in duty cycle. I am not sure but I think the valve may even be 0 volts at startup and below 6.5psi to stop boost creep.
Michael Smith
Michael Smith
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: North Queensland Australia
RotorMotor2, for a no load test it is too rich for a free rev you should see 14.5 to 15.0 some people say it should be leaner but for a rotary I wouldn't go leaner than 15.0 unless you are backing off. When I am tuning I run 14.5-14.7 and then I floor it to watch it for my accellerator pump setting you shouldn't go leaner if it does it will stumble. As you hit the gas you should aim for 12.2 at that instant then free rev running at 14.5 -15.0 on pump gas.
Thats what I think. What have the rest of you have to say???
Michael Smith
P.S. RICH is safe!
Thats what I think. What have the rest of you have to say???
Michael Smith
P.S. RICH is safe!
Looks all a little rich to me.
When Steve Kan tuned my Wolf, he went mid 12's from the '0' psi transition point till about 5 psi, then mid 11's to 15 psi, after that low 11's.
Running in the 9's and 10's at anything under 20 psi you are just losing power...
When Steve Kan tuned my Wolf, he went mid 12's from the '0' psi transition point till about 5 psi, then mid 11's to 15 psi, after that low 11's.
Running in the 9's and 10's at anything under 20 psi you are just losing power...
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 778
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From: North Queensland Australia
49% load is too lean it should be around 13, 56% load should be around 12.7, 63% load should be around 12.3 you need to look at the 6500 rpm value that can cost you a engine. 70% load you need to be around 12.2, 77% load you need to be around 12.1,84% load you need to be around 12.0, 100% load you need to be around 11.7-11.5
BTW this is my opinion others may differ use you descression
Michael Smith
BTW this is my opinion others may differ use you descression
Michael Smith
Originally Posted by Michael Smith
49% load is too lean it should be around 13, 56% load should be around 12.7, 63% load should be around 12.3 you need to look at the 6500 rpm value that can cost you a engine. 70% load you need to be around 12.2, 77% load you need to be around 12.1,84% load you need to be around 12.0, 100% load you need to be around 11.7-11.5
BTW this is my opinion others may differ use you descression
Michael Smith
BTW this is my opinion others may differ use you descression
Michael Smith
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would it matter if i said that 44%=0psi and 77% =10psi ?
I am trying to tune to 12.3 on idle to 12.5 just out of idle and then 12, 11.5, 11, then 10.5 at 10psi and up, anybody got any tuning advice as far as where to make these adjustments? ie: staging? fuel map? acc enrich is off by the way to get an accurate main fuel map (is this only for first jab of the throttle? or is it more?)
Thanks,
Jeremy
I am trying to tune to 12.3 on idle to 12.5 just out of idle and then 12, 11.5, 11, then 10.5 at 10psi and up, anybody got any tuning advice as far as where to make these adjustments? ie: staging? fuel map? acc enrich is off by the way to get an accurate main fuel map (is this only for first jab of the throttle? or is it more?)
Thanks,
Jeremy