stock r100 or not
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stock r100 or not
Advice is needed guys as you guys know I have a r100 that has a stock 10a engine. I love my car almost got rid of it but it just didnt happen. So , i want to drive my car so that it just does not sit in my garage all day. I cannot drive it with the stock 10a why c'mon you know the answer to that. So, my question do you guys think I should just throw in a 13b and forgot about keeping it stock?
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Driving RX7's since 1979
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Rebuilding a 10A
I know Jim Meter at Racing Beat has rebuilt a 10A within the last couple of years as I saw him working on it. I recall he said many of the 12A parts are interchangable.
You might want to give RB a call to schedule an appointment with Jim so he can share where to get what.
Absolutely keep the 10A in it.
You would totally kill the car if you don't.
You might want to give RB a call to schedule an appointment with Jim so he can share where to get what.
Absolutely keep the 10A in it.
You would totally kill the car if you don't.
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The car still runs good im just afraid to drive it because at any point it might give up on me. Look at the avatar thats exactly how it looks but with hubcaps. my pics are always to big to post.
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#12
Rx2 > FD
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man, if a seal goes and destroys a rotor and housing... your probley screwed for parts. I would rebuild it and use better seals. this way you will have a nice fresh motor without worrying about it. seals like RA super seals dont break, only warp. and atkins wich sucks, but are designed not to destroy rotors and housings after breaking. but when a Mazda seal goes, it takes everything with it...
Keep it 10a, just freshen up the motor. whats the milage on it?
Keep it 10a, just freshen up the motor. whats the milage on it?
#22
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Theses 10A apex seals back in the day were almost indestructible. Look how thick they are, instead of the normal FD 2mm, they were a massive 6mm. Normally when you find 10A Rotors, and Housings the housings are generally in good condition with the apex seals. Because of the large apex surface it is easy on the housings, and that's why the earlier engines seem to last longer. Notice the springs as well, they are very skinny springs.
As said earlier by the more knowledgable people - just drive it till it blows - or find a better place to store it... or sell it...
If not... swap in a 12A and beat on it... Just leave the original engine intact and store it properly... It will just help your resale in the future...
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Storing this car is not a problem it sits in inside a garage all the time. I guess I will just drive it when I can. Then when the engine blows I will rebuild the 10a and just finish the full restoration. If that does not happen I will sell it to someone that will promise me they will try to keep it stock.
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