West RX-7 Forum Serving California, Nevada, Arizona, Hawaii

stock r100 or not

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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 10:53 PM
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stock r100 or not

Advice is needed guys as you guys know I have a r100 that has a stock 10a engine. I love my car almost got rid of it but it just didnt happen. So , i want to drive my car so that it just does not sit in my garage all day. I cannot drive it with the stock 10a why c'mon you know the answer to that. So, my question do you guys think I should just throw in a 13b and forgot about keeping it stock?
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 11:18 PM
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nope. keep it original until the 10A blows
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 11:58 PM
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r100

Originally Posted by wackyracer
nope. keep it original until the 10A blows
I defenetly have to agree with wacky on this one bro ..... and you could drive that car around , give it a good tune up and drive it , just don't drive it like you stole it ....
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 01:55 PM
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thanks. I try to drive it but I cant leave that car alone in the street for any amount of time.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 02:05 PM
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lets see some pics
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 02:10 PM
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Rebuilding a 10A

I know Jim Meter at Racing Beat has rebuilt a 10A within the last couple of years as I saw him working on it. I recall he said many of the 12A parts are interchangable.

You might want to give RB a call to schedule an appointment with Jim so he can share where to get what.

Absolutely keep the 10A in it.

You would totally kill the car if you don't.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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The car still runs good im just afraid to drive it because at any point it might give up on me. Look at the avatar thats exactly how it looks but with hubcaps. my pics are always to big to post.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 02:36 PM
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meh
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 06:44 PM
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i want pic's of the 10a...ive never seen one.

:AA:
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 10:16 PM
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If your ever in my area you can come look at it.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 03:06 AM
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Definitely keep the 10a. +1 on pics too.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 04:09 AM
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man, if a seal goes and destroys a rotor and housing... your probley screwed for parts. I would rebuild it and use better seals. this way you will have a nice fresh motor without worrying about it. seals like RA super seals dont break, only warp. and atkins wich sucks, but are designed not to destroy rotors and housings after breaking. but when a Mazda seal goes, it takes everything with it...

Keep it 10a, just freshen up the motor. whats the milage on it?
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 04:33 AM
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who sells 6mm seals?
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 12:48 PM
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Thanks for the ideas sent two thats a good idea but does racing beat have the seals I need.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by slpin
who sells 6mm seals?
6mm?!
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 02:13 PM
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Like I said, Jim Mederer at Rb is your best friend regarding your 10A.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 03:44 PM
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yes what hozzman said along with your savings. he aint cheap ya know. i say keep that R100 as a cruiser but for fun, trade your REPU with light blue RX-3.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 05:21 PM
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Nope, he ain't cheap. But is perhaps a free reference source locating parts to rebuild the 10A.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by HOZZMANRX7
Nope, he ain't cheap. But is perhaps a free reference source locating parts to rebuild the 10A.
I also know that Ricardo Porta (sp?) is over in LA and is a master Mazda mechanic specializing in the 10a. He may be a less expensive alternative.... Just a thought!
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 08:31 PM
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It has about 84000 miles.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 08:50 PM
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damn... i cant find an Rx7 around here under 130k! 84k is low. Just refresh the motor and you should be fine...

even though a 4 port 13b with 9.7 rotors and a nice webber set-up is dope, i would hate to molest such a nice untouched car. really hard to come by these days.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TheAbsence
6mm?!




Theses 10A apex seals back in the day were almost indestructible. Look how thick they are, instead of the normal FD 2mm, they were a massive 6mm. Normally when you find 10A Rotors, and Housings the housings are generally in good condition with the apex seals. Because of the large apex surface it is easy on the housings, and that's why the earlier engines seem to last longer. Notice the springs as well, they are very skinny springs.
I brought that up because sen2two is soooo sure his "advices" would work... There are enough misinformation and idiots on this board that could cost the owner if he *did* decide to tear apart a perfectly good, original 10A engine... I mean seriously... recommending RA seals?! stack 3 2mm ones side by side or stack 2 3mm ones side by side... THAT is the question...

As said earlier by the more knowledgable people - just drive it till it blows - or find a better place to store it... or sell it...
If not... swap in a 12A and beat on it... Just leave the original engine intact and store it properly... It will just help your resale in the future...
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 01:37 AM
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Storing this car is not a problem it sits in inside a garage all the time. I guess I will just drive it when I can. Then when the engine blows I will rebuild the 10a and just finish the full restoration. If that does not happen I will sell it to someone that will promise me they will try to keep it stock.
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1
I also know that Ricardo Porta (sp?) is over in LA and is a master Mazda mechanic specializing in the 10a. He may be a less expensive alternative.... Just a thought!
+1 on Ricardo..
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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 04:24 AM
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Wow I never knew about the 6mm seals. Thanks for sharing the pictures and the bits of info!
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