I need to take my FD to a TEST ONLY station to get my registration valid. I have stock intake and the only exhaust mod is a downpipe. The stock computer is replaced with a Power FC, which is running the base map. Where should I take it that will ignore the downpipe and just check for valid readings? Also I have read a lot of advice to help to get the car to pass. ie set the idle at just below the limit of 1000 RPM. Warm up the car by driving it for 15 to 20 min on the freeway. Change the plugs, wires, and oil. I am not sure how to determine if its gonna pass or fail the EVAP test.

I care about actually passing so no post about hookups. I dont have a stock precat to install either so lets not go there unless you are gonna let me use one.

 

With a base map only in the PFC, I doubt it will be clean enough to pass IMO of course. Do you have a wideband? How old is the cat? I doubt the tech would see a DP unlesss it has a bright coating/paint job. IMO you MUST HAVE a wide band to mess with the PFC( and your gonna have to tune it to pass smog IMO), so get one of those, safely lean it out and try your luck with the smogfather. Just my 2 cents.

 

The pfc doesn't use the CEL (check engine light) so you're also going to fail when they look for this.

 

Dont they look for the check engine light to be on. It does come on when the car cranks then goes out

 

Oh the car passed Smog with the same setup before I bought the car at the end of 06. Ok so Im not gonna tune the car myself and if I remember correctly the Stock ECU runs rich anyhow. Does anyone have actual experience that can help me out here.

 

Honestly, from what I remember the PFC doesn't control the air control valve as they don't exist in jspec models. Your best bet it to just swap in a stock ECU for testing, then swap back the PFC. You should pass with the down pipe. Just get on boost and push the car hard to get the cat nice and hot before you drive it in.

Also, you don't want to lean out the pfc.. you will fail smog for sure that way. The cat needs a bit of fuel to be able to work properly.

 

Can anyone verify this air control valve and check engine light issue with the PFC. How hard is it to change out ECU?

 

The PFC does control the air pump - it just turns it off at 2500rpm instead of 3000rpm, which might be an issue depending on what gear the car is dynoed in.

The PFC does not cycle the CEL light so this will be an automatic fail - if the smog tech notices.

I have had no issue with a downpipe in several test only shops.

Swapping ECUs is a 10 minute job.

 

Ok so who has a stock ECU I can borrow just to be safe?