i know there is a 2nd gen area for this but please bear with me on this i found where my gas "leak" was coming from and that was my injectors i already replaced the o-rings once a few weeks back with new ones and now they are leaking after i tore apart my manifold to replace that coolant line in the back that goes from the tb to the rear i also replaced the t-stat and now my car wont start after i got everything back together and made sure everything was hooked up right i tried to deflood it once but it didnt work i got a 2nd method to try but i was wondering if there is anything else to try

 

ricerj,i predict a noob bashing from the so cal folks,be warned!!!

 

so here are a few shots of my front plugs after i cleaned them off






sorry about the quality camera sucks

 

put it on macro mode so it can focus up close.


does the motor turn over at least?

 

did you check all your vaccums?

 

and here are the rear plugs

 

i checked the vacuum lines they were all hooked up i found out my o-rings on my injectors were thrashed even though they were new

 

weird...

 

have you checked for spark>?

are your spark plug cables new? or the stock OEM ones>??

and does it crank atleast?

 

yea it cranks but my damn battery is low and my jumper box is dead so im just going to take it to autozone and have them check/ charge it if its bad i buy a new one i just got paid so its ok wires and plugs were replaced when i got it so they are only a little over a month old

 

just tell them you want it charge it, should be free.. i know kragen does it for free..

 

yea its free i know these guys there i walk in and almost everyone knows my name lol

 

alright update my battery was bad so i got a new one threw it in pulled plugs wiped em clean again just to be safe pulled both egi fuses and cranked 3 times with plugs in for 10 seconds nothing put fuses back in cranked a few times nothing checked underneath and found that i was leaking possibly coolant at the start of the y-pipe/ end of cat area idk how though any ideas

 

If it is coolant it means two things:
1. You have an exhaust leak between the cat and the Y pipe
2. You have a bad coolant seal in the motor and will need to take the motor apart for a rebuild.


So I would verify that its coolant and then go from there.

 

well i cant verify from sight i can only verify from texture when i put my hand in it since i can see the color at night and its too damn hot to lay on the ground in the day to check it it has that "sticky" feeling when you pull your hand out and it drys

 

Does it smell like coolant?

 

yes a little bit its not super strong but its there

 

If what dripped out smells of coolant then I would be fairly certain that you are in need of a rebuild.

 

damn but then whats my no start issue

 

water could be leaking into your combustion chamber which could cause it to flood. As your cranking probably makes its way into the exhaust which is why you have coolant leaking out your cat.

 

is there any way i can get it to start to see if it actually is? i mean i checked to see if i could turn it by hand just to make sure everything moved right and it does so im safe on that if i do have to rebuild it how much would it be to do it yourself (or with help of people) and how long would it take? i know ben does it in about 2 and half weeks or so and charges about 2k in car but im just wondering how much for the rebuild kit itself

 

As far as it not starting it's hard to figure out why over the internet as you have not informed anyone of what test's you have and have not done and confirmed.

If you have checked the basics and the other things others and myself have posted then it would almost definately require someone to come take a look at your car.


The rebuild of the engine itself can take as little as 4 hours or as long as it takes to put it together.
Have you ever built an engine before?

Do you own the tools to build the engine as well as remove/install it?

Some of the more important tools required to rebuild the engine- 300 ft/lb torque wrench, 32? mm socket and a really big breaker bar and flywheel stopper to remove the flywheel nut, 3/8" torque wrench with a 10-80 or so ft/lb range, cleaning tools of some kind, measuring tools such as micrometers and a dial gauge to measure the iron plate faces for step wear, engine hoist.

There is of course way more tools required to do the job but I beleive I covered the majority of the larger tools required.


You can be cheap and buy the basic rebuild kit from atkins for around $1300 or so, but you will still need to measure the wear on the iron's and rotor housings.
As well as inspect them for cracks and other common damage that you can find on this site.
If you want it to last longer than 20k miles, save up and have a pro rebuild it with new rotor housings or very low mileage one's at the least. Re-using rotor housings is one of the most rediculous things i've seen done even though 90% of the people on here do it.


Plan to spend at least $2,000 if you go the cheap cheap route.

You will find other things that you will need to replace while your removing and installing the engine as well.

 

jus buy a jspec 13bt (you will either way eventually)

 

push start.. try that

 

told you, shoulda bought my car