I think he is probably going to measure it up see what will fit, and order custom sizes new. Which is why he might be saving up.

I know i can fit 18 x 11 all around on a stock body R32 GT-R with pulled/rolled fenders. Offset not sure yet. I want to get as close to a tucked/rauh-welt style fitment. I don't know about FCs with stock body or blister fenders.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOxyizzB0uo

 

2 step or what?

 

Where do you find actual track #'s to put on the side of your door like that. I know the one shown in this is just blue tape, but I've seen photos of drivers in Japan with like "Dunlop" stickers on the side with their # underneath. Where can I get those??

 

these are priceless

 

Right now I'm considering:
Work Meister s1 3 piece
Enkei RPF01
RS Watanabe (if they even make anything in 18)
Desmond Regamaster
Fiske (if I can find any)
Work Varianza D3S
Work Euroline
Work VS-KF
Work VS-XX
CCW
BBS
Mazdaspeed
RE Amemiya

Some colors I'm looking at are Gold, Bronze, Black, and Polished. I'm also open to anything you guys suggest.

 

i have a few sets of numbers. i bought em at the track, they dont say dunlop or anything coo over the top of em, but they are far better than just masking tape.

 

Nice Wacky.

 

Nice Wacky.

 

Any competent decal/print shop can make you a magnet decal with your number and whatever brand you want on the top (i.e. Dunlop) pretty easily.

 

Damn Farkel..now I'm even more stoked to paint my Datsun Montego Blue..assuming that's what color your car is?

Dirty bumper FTW!

 

^Nice! I'm telling you man, keep the car!

 

nick if you sell that you better put all the money towards your z!

 

yeah those are always priced'less...

 

hahahah MOAR!!

 

fikse FTW!

 

man, whatever happened to old school epsilon wheels?

 

If you order FIKSE, better to order from them directly and order the custom offsets you want. Most used FIKSEs come in high offsets and really look ugly.

If you need work wheels, i get discounted pricing directly from Work wheels USA. I Can probably get you w/e for cheapest.

 

Hey Fabian,

Hell yeah I am...that way I don't have to smog my car ne more or crap my pants when I get pulled over. Can you say RB25 or Ls1? Prolly Rb though, gotta keep the japanese motor in my car. If I was ballin though a 20B 240Z would be sex.

 

Don't waste your time with a paperweight RB25.

If you can go RB26, and do the reliability modifications, then do that. If not, Toyota motors offer more bang for the buck....1jz-gte, 1.5Jz-gte (1j head + 2j block) or a CARB Legal US Spec 2jz-gte.

 

As much of a rotary fanatic as I am, don't swap one into a 240Z. Those are too classic. I wouldn't care if you did it to a 260Z, or nearly anything else.

 

i say rb26, or maybe even sr20 to kepp it light weight and distribute the wieght more evenly.

**** everyone and be a baller and go 20B

 

Yeah that's working out real well for David Hayes... Much easier swaps out there that can make big power reliably.

 

Nice, I will most likely be hitting you up in future!

 

If I wanted reliable big power it would be an Ls1, for sure though I'm probably going Rb25 in the long run. Love the way they sound, I can get decent power out of it. (I'd be content with 300-450rwhp), but I was saying if I had plenty of money I'd do a 20B just because I haven't seen one done and it's already a unique swap and I'd hold on to my rotary roots haha

-Oh and nothing wrong with a rotary in a 240z. It's already the engine swap ***** of the car world. I've seen every swap under the sun done to one almost.

Rb26 I'd have to source a different oil pan and transmission..it just becomes too much of a hassle. And the prices are much higher than the RB25. The 25 is more than enough for my modest goals.

And the toyota motors require more fab work. There are plenty of kits around that allow near bolt in of the Rb series, whereas the 1-2 Jz you have to fab the mounts your self.