I just got a '94 with light mods and a reman motor w/ 6k miles. Like I said, I'm a noob so I need all the help I can get.

Here's the scenario: The rex is like my pet. I just got back from spring break and the first thing I did was take it out for a "walk." I did the typical warm up before I set out. About 5 miles down the road I then boosted. I only went about 2/3 throttle when I saw my boost gauge max out. It freaked me out, so I turned right back around and came home. On the last stretch I decided to see if it would do it again. I gave moderate throttle (maybe 1/2) and once again my boost gauge flipped out. The rex then started running awful and I was able to limp it back into the driveway.

I havent started it up since, for fear that I'd do further damage.

I know you guys are gonna need more info, but like I said, I'm a noob and I really don't know a whole lot. I bought the car as is about 1000 miles ago. The only thing that I've done is an oil change and put the stock cat on (damn smog). There were no telltale signs leading up to the engine's final destination.

So, anyways, why this is in regional, is because I was wondering if someone local (I'm in Fairfield... North Bay kinda) could maybe come out and determine the outcome for me before I call the first owner of the rex.

Thanks for any help guys. I'm super sad that my dream come true has come crashing to a halt.

--Robbyah

 

What specific mods do you have?

When you say the boost gauge fliped out/maxed out, How much boost? 15/20/etc?

 

If it Idles properly, you're probhably fine, if it idles funny, and the boost gauge dances around in vaccuum, you're hosed... new motor time... (sorry).
Also it's not impossible but highly unlikely (99.9%) chance against that you would do more damage from idleing... since you can lean out or totally flood the motor, and short of hydro lock it it gas, and you'd eventually be able to run it with no ill effects.... (after all the gas evaporated)
Bottom line, try and get it to idle and if you can drive it to a rotary mechanic to have the compression tested. After you figure out if it's blown, next is to find out why it blew... that's where your mods would give us "Wanna Be Rotary Experts" hints (Since even Rhynberg sees something he hasn't before, every once in a while )

 

Extras/Add-ons
3" Stainless Steel Downpipe w/ Wideband Bung
3" High Flow Cat
3" HKS Cat-Back Exhaust (Dual Tip)
PFS Intercooler
PFS Cold Air Intake
M2 Reprogrammed ECU (Stage 3)
OZ DIY Wideband O2 Sensor w/ Display
R2 Front Strut Tower Brace (Chromed Ends)
Professionally polished Intake Manifold, Alternator, Greddy Elbow, Rear Turbo Inlet Pipe, and Crossover Pipe
Lots of Chrome hardware/brackets in engine bay
Konig Villian Wheels (17x8.5 Front)(17x9.5 Rear)
Firestone Firehawk Tires (235/45/17 Frnt)(275/40/17 Rear) Only 3000 miles
Dual R2 Oil Coolers
R2 Front Spoiler
R2 Rear Spoiler
Hawk HP+ Pads (All four Corners)
GAB Super-R Shocks (8-way Adjustable)
Eibach Springs
Aftermarket Front Swaybar (Brand Unknown)
Turbojeff SS battery tray w/ 51R Battery
Racing Beat Street/Strip Clutch
Dual A-pillar Pod
Greddy Electronic Gauges (Boost and Water Temp)
J-spec Turbo Y-pipe
Mazda Comp. Aluminum Radiator
***DRIVETRAIN***
Details: The engine was replaced with a NEW Mazda Reman at 88K miles.
Along with the engine, the following items were also replaced:
-All New Coolant Hoses (12 of them)
-All New Gaskets (Intake, Exhaust, Turbos, Oil, Water)
-All new Silicone Vacuum Hoses (Baker Precision Hose)
-New Fuel Hoses (double clamped) and New Injector Seals & O-rings
-Injectors have been cleaned and blueprinted by RC Engineering
-New Mazda Fuel Filter
-Newer Battery
-New Spark Plugs and Spark Plug Wires
-All Fresh Fluids (Oil, Coolant, Transmission, Brakes, Clutch)
-New Oil Filter
-Brand New Tires
-Air Conditioning has been recharged
-I have receipts for ALL of these parts (including motor, etc.)


^^ That's from the original owner... I'ts all legit stuff, and I assure all who read this, that I did not trash the car.

The first time the boost gauge went haywire, it maxed out (GReddy gauge peaks @ 2.0 bar). After that, the needle was just jumping all over the place.

DCrosby-- Thanks for all the advice, but I just had a mechanic friend stop by, and he confirmed the worst: blown rotor. It'll barely start, then when running it struggles like all hell.

I think the initial reason that I started this thread was to see if there were any rotor heads nearby that could maybe see if anything looked out of place.

Thanks guys, for the support so far, I guess I can look forward to contacting Jeff (the seller) soon.

Any more advice still very welcome though... thanks again.

 

Any kind of boost controller?

 

When it maxed out, was the car pulling like crazy or did feel normal?

 

Nope

Web777: No, actually it felt almost like it was losing boost when it maxed the first time. I dunno, maybe it was just me being overly conscious about what was going on. But it didn't feel like a crazy amount of power all of the sudden.

 

what did the wideband read?

 

rotaries and noobs don't mix

 

lol... no really though, I really am sad. I was hoping that all the extra money that I spent, getting such a clean and "new" car, that it wouldv'e given me the time to learn a bit about the car, because I knew that it was inevitable, but I guess not.

Just to show how much of a noob, how would've I known what my wideband was?

 

you got a wideband and you don't know what it does?

prictice on fc's...it's cheaper

 

First lesson of being a squid, trade me your wideband for my stock spoiler.

 

It's blown. How much do you want to sell your car for?

 

why ask webboy, u said, "I don't want junk"

 

so.....................what are you askin for your 7?

 

i'm willin to take it off your hands.

 

Wow... can we get back on task here? No the car is definately not up for grabs. I've worked my *** off for too damn long to be set back like this. As I stated before, this is merely a learning process for me now, I just hoped that it wasn't going to happen to me so soon.

I don't wanna sound like a *****, but if your not going to help, why post?

I guess this thread is now done. Thanks to those that offered their insight. I guess I'll be contacting the guy now.

>> Well, you know, after a little bit research I found out that wideband is merely a different term for air/fuel. I dunno why no one else could simply state this, but whatever. Once again, thanks to those that helped.

 

Ummm, it's the leftovers of the belligerents... you know wannabes and posers that ***** up thread before its time.

I believe that unless you had a very good fuel system setup without a boost controller you may have leaned out your fuel mixture and popped your motor. Intake/downpipe/high flow/catback may have required more fuel at boost then your injectors (fuel system) could provide. Regardless, I think your motor is toast... if you want more tecnical analysis of your problem, I would recommend posting on the 3rd Gen Forum.

Since you closed the thread... I guess people can start postwhoring... watch no one will now!!!

 

Well after you get a new motor I suggest you get a Programmable ECU, like Haltech, AEM or Power FC. that way someone who knows rotaries can try and help you make sure you have enough fuel, but regardless once you go past 15-16psi on pump gas not much can help you on most turbos, especially stockers, since too much heat is built up... you can't cool it with gas alone.... maybe read up on Pop off Valves, or Water Injection, as that might be your only safe defense... if you should hit more than 16 psi again.

BTW Pop off valves, or what I call a pop off valve, is different from a blow off valve... a pop off opens @ a pre-determined boost setting, saving your motor, and in the long run if not controlled (if you use it everyday) will eventually hurt your turbos, but if the incident was a once in a Month / Long time, it would have done little harm to the turbo, and saved your motor...

-DC

 

Well, thanks guys. Heh, beligerents... I knew it all along, and I was going to start flaming up, but hell, I was tired and I couldn't sleep.

Yeah, a PFC and a fuel upgrade were deffinately my next upgrade. I had just hoped that I was going to make it that far.

Once again, thanks for the support, DC you rock. Doesn't the stock system come with recycle valves though? I thought those would do the same thing: release an excess of boost. Anyways, just something to consider down the road.

Depending on what Jeff decides to do, all of the West folks should be prepared to see an amazing car sometime down the road (can you say second job?).

Gotta keep that dream alive

 

Rob,

After reading this post, your e-mail, and talking to you on the phone, I am having a hard time making all of the peices of your story add up to a conculsion of what is going on here. Still trying to figure this out.

For example, 2.0 Bar is almost 30 psi. That is not possible with stock twins on pump gas at 2/3 throttle (or even full throttle). It may be possible that the GReddy boost gauge took a dump, but that would not cause an engine failure.

Also, the M2 Stage 3 ECU is programmed to hit fuel cut around 14-15 psi, so you should have hit your chin on the dash when it went above 1.0 bar. You did not mention that that happened in your post or our talk.

Third, there was a "Home Depot" manual boost controller on the car that worked perfectly for the entire time I owned the car. The boost controller was set to run 0.9 bar when I sold the car. Unless the turbo waste gate completely failed (in the closed position) which seems unlikely, I can't figure out how the car would overboost unless the boost controller was changed. The car always ran flawlessly for me, so I am at a loss.

It also seems strange that this happened directly after you were out of town for a week. Are you absolutely sure someone didn't have some fun with the car when you were gone?

Basically, I don't know what to tell you. The facts given in this matter don't seem to lead toward a logical explination of how you say the car is running now. I can't help but feel that there is something more to the story that you may not be aware of. It seems like the next step is to have a compression test done to truely evaluate the condition of the motor and go from there.

Keep me posted. Even though this was an as-is sale of a used sports car, I would like to help you figure this thing out if possible.

Jeff

 

There's a difference between a Pressure Relief Valve, (pop off valve) and a Blow off valve, the blow off opens when you are under boost, and snap the throttle body shut, to shift, or whatever... the pressure relief valve stays shut untill a preset boost pressure is reached, and then starts opening to prevent damage to the motor. It's a safety device, for the motor. The stock stystem has a Blow off Valve, and a Charge Controll Valve, which is used for transitioning the twins, in stock form. But no pressure relief valve... in stock form, and as I recall only greddy and maybe one other company makes a Pressure Relief Valve, One company makes a dual pressure relief / blow off valve.

 

damn. too late for me to give my Brenda advice. anyhoo, get the thing rebuilt, put on an ecu (not the peter ferrell junk), and drive it like you stole it. have fun. btw, Donna got some harnesses for the sparcos I put in. She's happy again.








Ninja!

 

well... aRex7 and I have talked about things, and we still haven't come to any conclusions (still working on it).

[QUOTE=pshaw118]damn. too late for me to give my Brenda advice. anyhoo, get the thing rebuilt, put on an ecu (not the peter ferrell junk), and drive it like you stole it. have fun. btw, Donna got some harnesses for the sparcos I put in. She's happy again.


lol... who exactly are you talking to about the harness tho?

 

who can tell me of any good rotary shops here in the bay? my uncle has a shop, but i think i'd rather go to a specialist first, that is if we dont figure out what exactly what is wrong with the motor