Good afternoon everyone,

I have been out of the rx7 game for a year now. I sold my fc, which i truly regret but I can't change it now. I want another rx7!

I will get right into it. A guy in my neighborhood has a 93 rx7, 140k miles, rebuilt engine at 110k miles, clean exterior (8.5/10), clean interior (9/10), has upgrades (exhaust, standalone, etc). He said it is getting around 350 hp to the wheels. He wants 7k for it.

Here is the catch. The car has been sitting for 2 years in storage but he said the car will turn on no problem. The engine is still strong and all it needs it fuel and a battery. He did drain the fuel so that is good. My questions are:

1. Should I drain the oil and put new oil before attempting to start the car?

2. Is it really bad that the car has been sitting for two years without every being turned on? If so, what are some of the things that can be potential problems?

3. Is 7k a good price for this car (clean title, no major body damage)

Thanks guys.

 

I'm was in a similar boat---I just paid for a '95 that was in storage from 2008-2013 spring. He had it taken to Rotary Performance (rx7.com) and they did a complete revival on it, totalling about 1,300$

That includes chemically cleaning the fuel system, flushing coolant/brake lines,engine/tranny oil, new fuel filter, pump, etc....

Compression is about 7.6-7.8 on the rear and 7.7-7. on the front

starts fine, idles fine, no smoke. great condition in RP's opinion.

So, atleast for now, it being sitting for 5 years has resulted in much harm. As long this car you're looking at was cared for decently before storage, i'd say you're looking at a grand on to the price for similar work to be done on it, unless you can do it yourself

Either way, I would get the compression tested for the hell of it--only like 60 bucks or so.
7k is not bad at all if the numbers are decent and its generally mechanically sound.

 

Thank you for sharing. I will schedule a compression test asap.

 

I have been ready a lot on what should be done before starting a rx7 after it has been stored for a long time and it seems that I should not start it up over there because a lot of things need to be done (oil in the spark plug holes and letting it stay in there for a few days, change coolant, change oil and filter, change fuel filter, etc.).

That means that I cannot check the compression on the stop, so is there any other way to tell if the engine is good without actually trying to start the car?

Also, is 7k still a good price for a clean 93 if the engine need to be rebuilt?

 

you can check compression without all the rest of those things having been addressed, they should be addressed once the car is ready to start.

as long as there is nothing hidden like a salvage title then you really can't go wrong for the price if the condition matches what you say.

 

Thanks for the input. So, what should the reading be on the compression gauge for it to be a good number. The reason I ask is because everything I have read so far has said that you should warm the car up and then check to the compression for a accurate reading.

1.How inaccurate would the reading be checking it without warming it up vs. warming it up?

2. Would I damage the apex seals if I check the compression if the car has been sitting for 2 years?

I am sorry for asking so many questions but I wouldn't want to mess up the car by doing something stupid when it can be prevented.

 

90 would be a marginal limit with a good battery and starter.

110-130 would be ideal range when warmed up.

 

Thank you

 

Just wanted to add--

the original owner of mine allegedly started the car "every quarter" so I guess it wasn't sitting without start for 5 years.

However, i think for the price you'll still be in good shape.


Also note that people have gotten 5+ more psi after steam cleaning the rotary internals:
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

after sitting for years it could be a little gunky in there. So I agree with RotaryEvo, if you're in the 90s range on a cold comp. test you'll be okay...it will likely be higher after you can run/warm the engine more, and possibly even higher after a decarboning.

No apex seal damage from comp testing. And if there is any for some strange reason, the compression test will show it

 

Thanks for the advice. I am going by this Sunday with a tester to check the compression. I will first unplug the EGI (i think that is the one I unplug right?) fuse and then crank the car. I hope it is in the 90s because if it is..SOLD...I will probably be in touch with you if I buy the car so I can get info on the place you took your car to have it totally services.

Thanks again

 

I bought the car! Compression around 90 cold crank. I changed the oil and added fuel and started it. Here is what I want to do next.

1. Change spark plugs
2. Flush coolant
3. Seafoam in gas tank and vacuum hose
4. Change all filters

Am I missing anything?

 

congrats on the purchase!




regarding seafoam:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...eafoam-715113/

did a quick search on it---there isnt TOO much info about it in FD's, but many people do the steam clean method I posted prior with good results. If I were you, I'd go with that---but seafoam seems like an easy option that may or may not have benefit.

Otherwise, all that sounds good man. Just inspect for any brittle hoses and you'll be good...squeeze around on the visible ones, others will show themselves in time

 

Thanks! It is nice to be back in a rx7. I went over to Rotary Power and I think I am going to have him do a full tune up on the car.

Thank you again for your help.

 

Cool I have heard good things about them.

I also recommend Neptune Speed in the OC area, went to them a few times.