A builder up north.
10-08-10, 11:15 PM
#1
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A builder up north.
so in my ongoing search for a shop to rebuild my engine I have found a place in oregon called pineapple racing. Sounds like a good deal. 5k+ for an oil system upgrade and new rotor housings and ofcourse all seals. Thr price even includes a heavy duty water seal. Has anyone been to them for a rebuild?
10-09-10, 02:55 AM
#3
Rotary its a way of life
you got an easy half dozen shops in the bay area go to one of them and see what you can get for cost because you dont need to spend 5k on a rebuild
10-10-10, 01:24 PM
#6
most oil system modifications are bullshit, especially if you have a turbo motor. it can and probably will cause more issues of oil burning through the turbos right off or down the road. the more you raise the oil pressure the more it has to be detuned going through the turbos or it will be forced past the carbon seals and cause damage to the turbo seals.
$5k is outrageous if you ask me but meh, if people want to spend that much on a motor to feel better about it then that is their own thing.
i'm not local anymore but i can ship engines and am in norcal several times a year to pick up and drop off cars, engines and do tuning.
i can rebuild an engine with new housings for $1500 for the standard rebuild, $1400 for the housings, $285 for a streetport and $300 for iron lapping(if necessary). so in total minus the oil pressure mods that's $3500 compared to $5k. shipping is about $250 both ways or if you're not in a hurry i can setup a time to pick up the engine and or drop it off when i'm scheduled to be in the area.
rotor housings aren't a necessity for a rebuild either, if the engine is fairly low mileage and there is minimal scarring on the housing edges. most FD housings are still in decent to good condition up to about 90k miles, past that there will be some chrome flaking on the edges. if you want the best compression possible then new housings are the way to go however, BUT a loss of 10psi compression is hardly noticable.
i can also polish the engine for an additional $275 if you want a show quality motor, otherwise we just use conventional high temp ceramic engine enamel but soon will also be able to do powder coating for a little less than the cost of polishing. see my album for one of the recent engines i did for a customer in SF with a polish job.
pineapple is a good shop and has been around for a long while, so i'm not saying they don't do good work but i do think that most shops COULD do their customers a favor and not try to dig on them too much. rotary engines are fairly fragile so that $5k could be more easily divided up or saved the extra and put towards the inevitable future engine failure(don't read too much into this, i have a very good track record). i'm still working on some products that will help cure some of those failures, look for them in the near future. flaws in the rotary engine are weak iron castings for the coolant seals(the product i mentioned will cure 90%+ of this problem) and tuning issues(obviously no fault to the engine but the engines don't take this issue lightly).
for local shops you have PR motorsports in hayward(i have heard several bad stories about this shop), Ricks rotary in pleasanton(possibly the most expensive shop you will ever visit, very thorough but also not very modification oriented. i have had to redo some of his cars because they were ill setup to produce power, he is good at stock rotary cars mainly), SR motorsports in brentwood and Rotorsport in the south bay(san jose). they are all pricey due to their location.
$5k is outrageous if you ask me but meh, if people want to spend that much on a motor to feel better about it then that is their own thing.
i'm not local anymore but i can ship engines and am in norcal several times a year to pick up and drop off cars, engines and do tuning.
i can rebuild an engine with new housings for $1500 for the standard rebuild, $1400 for the housings, $285 for a streetport and $300 for iron lapping(if necessary). so in total minus the oil pressure mods that's $3500 compared to $5k. shipping is about $250 both ways or if you're not in a hurry i can setup a time to pick up the engine and or drop it off when i'm scheduled to be in the area.
rotor housings aren't a necessity for a rebuild either, if the engine is fairly low mileage and there is minimal scarring on the housing edges. most FD housings are still in decent to good condition up to about 90k miles, past that there will be some chrome flaking on the edges. if you want the best compression possible then new housings are the way to go however, BUT a loss of 10psi compression is hardly noticable.
i can also polish the engine for an additional $275 if you want a show quality motor, otherwise we just use conventional high temp ceramic engine enamel but soon will also be able to do powder coating for a little less than the cost of polishing. see my album for one of the recent engines i did for a customer in SF with a polish job.
pineapple is a good shop and has been around for a long while, so i'm not saying they don't do good work but i do think that most shops COULD do their customers a favor and not try to dig on them too much. rotary engines are fairly fragile so that $5k could be more easily divided up or saved the extra and put towards the inevitable future engine failure(don't read too much into this, i have a very good track record). i'm still working on some products that will help cure some of those failures, look for them in the near future. flaws in the rotary engine are weak iron castings for the coolant seals(the product i mentioned will cure 90%+ of this problem) and tuning issues(obviously no fault to the engine but the engines don't take this issue lightly).
for local shops you have PR motorsports in hayward(i have heard several bad stories about this shop), Ricks rotary in pleasanton(possibly the most expensive shop you will ever visit, very thorough but also not very modification oriented. i have had to redo some of his cars because they were ill setup to produce power, he is good at stock rotary cars mainly), SR motorsports in brentwood and Rotorsport in the south bay(san jose). they are all pricey due to their location.
10-10-10, 01:41 PM
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Is there a way to get around this problem with the turbo? I know that he suggested this because of my plans for this engine. I want to get it to low 300hp at some point and i will be runniing an fcon with upgraded fuel injectors and pump. Nothing too major in my eyes. The builder keeps telling me I need to build it for the hardest load I will be using on it and I do plan on startin to drift in it? Dont get me wrong im a complete novice. So I am questioning weather the stage 3 oil mod at pineapple racing really is for me. I also want this car to be my daily driver even though I live in sf and wont actually be driving it every day. Lol. But How much experience do you have? Tell me what youre about.
most oil system modifications are bullshit, especially if you have a turbo motor. it can and probably will cause more issues of oil burning through the turbos right off or down the road. the more you raise the oil pressure the more it has to be detuned going through the turbos or it will be forced past the carbon seals and cause damage to the turbo seals.
$5k is outrageous if you ask me but meh, if people want to spend that much on a motor to feel better about it then that is their own thing.
i'm not local anymore but i can ship engines and am in norcal several times a year to pick up and drop off cars, engines and do tuning.
i can rebuild an engine with new housings for $1500 for the standard rebuild, $1400 for the housings, $285 for a streetport and $300 for iron lapping(if necessary). so in total minus the oil pressure mods that's $3500 compared to $5k. shipping is about $250 both ways or if you're not in a hurry i can setup a time to pick up the engine and or drop it off when i'm scheduled to be in the area.
rotor housings aren't a necessity for a rebuild either, if the engine is fairly low mileage and there is minimal scarring on the housing edges. most FD housings are still in decent to good condition up to about 90k miles, past that there will be some chrome flaking on the edges. if you want the best compression possible then new housings are the way to go however, BUT a loss of 10psi compression is hardly noticable.
i can also polish the engine for an additional $275 if you want a show quality motor, otherwise we just use conventional high temp ceramic engine enamel but soon will also be able to do powder coating for a little less than the cost of polishing. see my album for one of the recent engines i did for a customer in SF with a polish job.
$5k is outrageous if you ask me but meh, if people want to spend that much on a motor to feel better about it then that is their own thing.
i'm not local anymore but i can ship engines and am in norcal several times a year to pick up and drop off cars, engines and do tuning.
i can rebuild an engine with new housings for $1500 for the standard rebuild, $1400 for the housings, $285 for a streetport and $300 for iron lapping(if necessary). so in total minus the oil pressure mods that's $3500 compared to $5k. shipping is about $250 both ways or if you're not in a hurry i can setup a time to pick up the engine and or drop it off when i'm scheduled to be in the area.
rotor housings aren't a necessity for a rebuild either, if the engine is fairly low mileage and there is minimal scarring on the housing edges. most FD housings are still in decent to good condition up to about 90k miles, past that there will be some chrome flaking on the edges. if you want the best compression possible then new housings are the way to go however, BUT a loss of 10psi compression is hardly noticable.
i can also polish the engine for an additional $275 if you want a show quality motor, otherwise we just use conventional high temp ceramic engine enamel but soon will also be able to do powder coating for a little less than the cost of polishing. see my album for one of the recent engines i did for a customer in SF with a polish job.
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10-10-10, 01:50 PM
#8
i've built cars producing ~500WHP+ running well over 30k miles on the stock oil pressure.
you can restrict the oil pressure to the turbos with an oil jet in line to the turbo but this should only be necessary on cars with upgraded single turbos, the higher the oil pressure is the more difficult it is to restrict the oil pressure at varying RPMs. i only say this for turbo rotary applications, you can modify the oil system on non turbo cars without too much ill effects so long as the oil seals are in good condition.
i have tested rotaries pushing over 300 to the wheels on as low as 45 psi of oil pressure and there was no damage due to the lowered oil pressure. so IMO if it is fine at lower pressure what gains do you have from raising it? more drag on the engine is all really, possibly a few more degrees of engine cooling through the oil system but nothing really noticable. the cons outweigh the pros.
ditch the f-con if you want to break the 300 mark, you'll need some sort of standalone to really get there reliably.
you can restrict the oil pressure to the turbos with an oil jet in line to the turbo but this should only be necessary on cars with upgraded single turbos, the higher the oil pressure is the more difficult it is to restrict the oil pressure at varying RPMs. i only say this for turbo rotary applications, you can modify the oil system on non turbo cars without too much ill effects so long as the oil seals are in good condition.
i have tested rotaries pushing over 300 to the wheels on as low as 45 psi of oil pressure and there was no damage due to the lowered oil pressure. so IMO if it is fine at lower pressure what gains do you have from raising it? more drag on the engine is all really, possibly a few more degrees of engine cooling through the oil system but nothing really noticable. the cons outweigh the pros.
ditch the f-con if you want to break the 300 mark, you'll need some sort of standalone to really get there reliably.
10-10-10, 01:55 PM
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I see. Well i do plan on getting a turbo from bnr. The bnr stage 2. They claim 330 at the wheels at 14psi of boost. what kind of seal springs do you use?
i've built cars producing ~500WHP+ running well over 30k miles on the stock oil pressure.
you can restrict the oil pressure to the turbos with an oil jet in line to the turbo but this should only be necessary on cars with upgraded single turbos, the higher the oil pressure is the more difficult it is to restrict the oil pressure at varying RPMs. i only say this for turbo rotary applications, you can modify the oil system on non turbo cars without too much ill effects so long as the oil seals are in good condition.
i have tested rotaries pushing over 300 to the wheels on as low as 45 psi of oil pressure and there was no damage due to the lowered oil pressure. so IMO if it is fine at lower pressure what gains do you have from raising it? more drag on the engine is all really, possibly a few more degrees of engine cooling through the oil system but nothing really noticable. the cons outweigh the pros.
you can restrict the oil pressure to the turbos with an oil jet in line to the turbo but this should only be necessary on cars with upgraded single turbos, the higher the oil pressure is the more difficult it is to restrict the oil pressure at varying RPMs. i only say this for turbo rotary applications, you can modify the oil system on non turbo cars without too much ill effects so long as the oil seals are in good condition.
i have tested rotaries pushing over 300 to the wheels on as low as 45 psi of oil pressure and there was no damage due to the lowered oil pressure. so IMO if it is fine at lower pressure what gains do you have from raising it? more drag on the engine is all really, possibly a few more degrees of engine cooling through the oil system but nothing really noticable. the cons outweigh the pros.
10-10-10, 01:57 PM
#10
OEM springs have lasted the test of time for most racecars and stock power levels, others have made their own which have flattened out when they get hot(running a little lean). that said, i use OEM springs.
if you were saying that you plan on going to 500+ then i might say upgrading the oil pressure is a necessity to cool combustion temps off the rotor face but below that it isn't really necessary. to get to 500+ reliably can cost a chunk of change because you're changing everything around the engine.
if you were saying that you plan on going to 500+ then i might say upgrading the oil pressure is a necessity to cool combustion temps off the rotor face but below that it isn't really necessary. to get to 500+ reliably can cost a chunk of change because you're changing everything around the engine.
10-10-10, 02:05 PM
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OEM springs have lasted the test of time for most racecars and stock power levels, others have made their own which have flattened out when they get hot(running a little lean). that said, i use OEM springs.
if you were saying that you plan on going to 500+ then i might say upgrading the oil pressure is a necessity to cool combustion temps off the rotor face but below that it isn't really necessary. to get to 500+ reliably can cost a chunk of change because you're changing everything around the engine.
if you were saying that you plan on going to 500+ then i might say upgrading the oil pressure is a necessity to cool combustion temps off the rotor face but below that it isn't really necessary. to get to 500+ reliably can cost a chunk of change because you're changing everything around the engine.
10-10-10, 02:15 PM
#12
then for 300-350 the BNR is a good direct bolt on turbo, it will be a little laggier than your stock turbo is though. you will also need an upgraded intercooler, i would suggest saving some of that money from the engine and putting it toward a custom V-mount intercooler. front mounts are the easiest upgrade intercooler but they also warm up coolant temps too much, this is probably the most difficult part of the adventure since there is only one v-mount kit that i know of which is from rotary works and sits VERY low in the front of the car! it could be done better but not for as cheaply as they do.
then you need a way to manage fuel, you could get by wth an Rtek 2.0/2.1(i assume this is an FC car we're talking about?) or spend a few extra bucks for a new/used microtech LT8s, slightly more for a Apexi PowerFC with adapter harness, or haltech(i have no tuning experience with the haltech to date since it isn't as common an EMS in cali). then you have fuel system upgrades to deal with. you'll need a walbro255 pump or supraTT pump to give you a buffer for fuel needs. then you'll need 720/720cc injectors if running the Rtek or any combination to total 3000-3500cc of total injector running any of the other management systems(PowerFC does not like larger than 850 primaries though). the stock fuel pressure regulator is fine for your power goals.
lastly you will need a turbo intake pipe and filter to help spool the turbo and a free flowing 3" full exhaust system.
a street port will still be smoggable but the rest of the car will not be visually smoggable. there is no easy way to get over 300 to the wheels and still have a car that easily transferrable back to being full smog capable. you can get there with an Apexi Safc which tricks the stock ECU and allows you to run all the stock smog equipment OR the Apexi PowerFC can also run everything(minus the check engine light, which can be fixed). the Rtek 2.0/2.1 is a mappable stock ECU also and runs everything in stock form including the check engine light and may be the best choice for california smog cars, it is however not very tuner friendly and is time consuming to tune with.
then you need a way to manage fuel, you could get by wth an Rtek 2.0/2.1(i assume this is an FC car we're talking about?) or spend a few extra bucks for a new/used microtech LT8s, slightly more for a Apexi PowerFC with adapter harness, or haltech(i have no tuning experience with the haltech to date since it isn't as common an EMS in cali). then you have fuel system upgrades to deal with. you'll need a walbro255 pump or supraTT pump to give you a buffer for fuel needs. then you'll need 720/720cc injectors if running the Rtek or any combination to total 3000-3500cc of total injector running any of the other management systems(PowerFC does not like larger than 850 primaries though). the stock fuel pressure regulator is fine for your power goals.
lastly you will need a turbo intake pipe and filter to help spool the turbo and a free flowing 3" full exhaust system.
a street port will still be smoggable but the rest of the car will not be visually smoggable. there is no easy way to get over 300 to the wheels and still have a car that easily transferrable back to being full smog capable. you can get there with an Apexi Safc which tricks the stock ECU and allows you to run all the stock smog equipment OR the Apexi PowerFC can also run everything(minus the check engine light, which can be fixed). the Rtek 2.0/2.1 is a mappable stock ECU also and runs everything in stock form including the check engine light and may be the best choice for california smog cars, it is however not very tuner friendly and is time consuming to tune with.
10-10-10, 02:37 PM
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YES!Im on the right track then. ya its an fc. S5! Woohoo! Ive checked out the vmounts you are talking about. In fact everything else too. but these things may be an issue when it comes to smog time. Idk about the rtec chip. It sounds kinda generic imo. i dont know a whole lot about it though. Isnt the power fc a stand alone only? It sounds like you are sugesting I use it as a piggy back. Haltech is great from what I hear but a bit too expensive for me. Isnt the fcon enough to manage the fuel system for me? i think it comes with a fuel cut. For the exhaust I was planing on running the cork sports down pipe res pipe to the Apexi dual N1 duals. Drone baby drone! Its all 3"
then for 300-350 the BNR is a good direct bolt on turbo, it will be a little laggier than your stock turbo is though. you will also need an upgraded intercooler, i would suggest saving some of that money from the engine and putting it toward a custom V-mount intercooler. front mounts are the easiest upgrade intercooler but they also warm up coolant temps too much, this is probably the most difficult part of the adventure since there is only one v-mount kit that i know of which is from rotary works and sits VERY low in the front of the car! it could be done better but not for as cheaply as they do.
then you need a way to manage fuel, you could get by wth an Rtek 2.0/2.1(i assume this is an FC car we're talking about?) or spend a few extra bucks for a new/used microtech LT8s, slightly more for a Apexi PowerFC with adapter harness, or haltech(i have no tuning experience with the haltech to date since it isn't as common an EMS in cali). then you have fuel system upgrades to deal with. you'll need a walbro255 pump or supraTT pump to give you a buffer for fuel needs. then you'll need 720/720cc injectors if running the Rtek or any combination to total 3000-3500cc of total injector running any of the other management systems(PowerFC does not like larger than 850 primaries though). the stock fuel pressure regulator is fine for your power goals.
lastly you will need a turbo intake pipe and filter to help spool the turbo and a free flowing 3" full exhaust system.
a street port will still be smoggable but the rest of the car will not be visually smoggable. there is no easy way to get over 300 to the wheels and still have a car that easily transferrable back to being full smog capable. you can get there with an Apexi Safc which tricks the stock ECU and allows you to run all the stock smog equipment OR the Apexi PowerFC can also run everything(minus the check engine light, which can be fixed). the Rtek 2.0/2.1 is a mappable stock ECU also and runs everything in stock form including the check engine light and may be the best choice for california smog cars, it is however not very tuner friendly and is time consuming to tune with.
then you need a way to manage fuel, you could get by wth an Rtek 2.0/2.1(i assume this is an FC car we're talking about?) or spend a few extra bucks for a new/used microtech LT8s, slightly more for a Apexi PowerFC with adapter harness, or haltech(i have no tuning experience with the haltech to date since it isn't as common an EMS in cali). then you have fuel system upgrades to deal with. you'll need a walbro255 pump or supraTT pump to give you a buffer for fuel needs. then you'll need 720/720cc injectors if running the Rtek or any combination to total 3000-3500cc of total injector running any of the other management systems(PowerFC does not like larger than 850 primaries though). the stock fuel pressure regulator is fine for your power goals.
lastly you will need a turbo intake pipe and filter to help spool the turbo and a free flowing 3" full exhaust system.
a street port will still be smoggable but the rest of the car will not be visually smoggable. there is no easy way to get over 300 to the wheels and still have a car that easily transferrable back to being full smog capable. you can get there with an Apexi Safc which tricks the stock ECU and allows you to run all the stock smog equipment OR the Apexi PowerFC can also run everything(minus the check engine light, which can be fixed). the Rtek 2.0/2.1 is a mappable stock ECU also and runs everything in stock form including the check engine light and may be the best choice for california smog cars, it is however not very tuner friendly and is time consuming to tune with.
10-10-10, 02:48 PM
#14
Rtek could be considered a standalone, it gives you control over the fuelling maps as well as timing maps, similar to the Apexi PowerFC but the Rtek has a limited range for adjustability(currently 50% more or less fuel which in more heaviliy modified cases 50% isn't enough) so the PowerFC trumps it while both can still control everything in stock forum under the hood.
i also forgot to mention that you can stick with the stock top mount intercooler and still reach those power goals but it will be more difficult and may require a stage 3 or 4 turbo to accomplish as the intercooler isn't as efficient as a larger core front mount/V-mount intercooler and will be less efficient at cooling the intake charge going into the engine. you can combat the heat issue with a water/methanol injection system to cool the intake charge temps. these kits run around $350-400 for the cheaper ones with a progressive controller(don't waste your time with the simplified non progressive versions, they are more for V8 supercharged applications).
i also forgot to mention that you can stick with the stock top mount intercooler and still reach those power goals but it will be more difficult and may require a stage 3 or 4 turbo to accomplish as the intercooler isn't as efficient as a larger core front mount/V-mount intercooler and will be less efficient at cooling the intake charge going into the engine. you can combat the heat issue with a water/methanol injection system to cool the intake charge temps. these kits run around $350-400 for the cheaper ones with a progressive controller(don't waste your time with the simplified non progressive versions, they are more for V8 supercharged applications).
10-10-10, 02:57 PM
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The Power FC is a stand alone. Upgraded intercoolers are CA smog legal. The Power FC with the FC adaptor harness will come out to about the same or possibly a little more than a Haltech depending which model you get. The great part about Power FCs is that they plug right into the factory engine harness so you don't have to run your own harness.
10-10-10, 02:59 PM
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Rtek could be considered a standalone, it gives you control over the fuelling maps as well as timing maps, similar to the Apexi PowerFC but the Rtek has a limited range for adjustability(currently 50% more or less fuel which in more heaviliy modified cases 50% isn't enough) so the PowerFC trumps it while both can still control everything in stock forum under the hood.
i also forgot to mention that you can stick with the stock top mount intercooler and still reach those power goals but it will be more difficult and may require a stage 3 or 4 turbo to accomplish as the intercooler isn't as efficient as a larger core front mount/V-mount intercooler and will be less efficient at cooling the intake charge going into the engine. you can combat the heat issue with a water/methanol injection system to cool the intake charge temps. these kits run around $350-400 for the cheaper ones with a progressive controller(don't waste your time with the simplified non progressive versions, they are more for V8 supercharged applications).
i also forgot to mention that you can stick with the stock top mount intercooler and still reach those power goals but it will be more difficult and may require a stage 3 or 4 turbo to accomplish as the intercooler isn't as efficient as a larger core front mount/V-mount intercooler and will be less efficient at cooling the intake charge going into the engine. you can combat the heat issue with a water/methanol injection system to cool the intake charge temps. these kits run around $350-400 for the cheaper ones with a progressive controller(don't waste your time with the simplified non progressive versions, they are more for V8 supercharged applications).
10-10-10, 02:59 PM
#17
they are but the more the engine bay looks modified the more the smog tech will turn you away. it's not easily doable making the car look stock and still make those power levels but it is doable, only swapping a few things out for the test.
seeing an upgraded v-mount/radiator will have him looking at the downpipe(missing pre-cat), that shiney new turbo(while intercoolers are legal, turbos are not legal to upgade) and the intake(there is no legal mod away from the stock airbox for the FC).
seeing an upgraded v-mount/radiator will have him looking at the downpipe(missing pre-cat), that shiney new turbo(while intercoolers are legal, turbos are not legal to upgade) and the intake(there is no legal mod away from the stock airbox for the FC).
10-10-10, 03:02 PM
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The Power FC is a stand alone. Upgraded intercoolers are CA smog legal. The Power FC with the FC adaptor harness will come out to about the same or possibly a little more than a Haltech depending which model you get. The great part about Power FCs is that they plug right into the factory engine harness so you don't have to run your own harness.
10-10-10, 03:04 PM
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they are but the more the engine bay looks modified the more the smog tech will turn you away. it's not easily doable making the car look stock and still make those power levels but it is doable, only swapping a few things out for the test.
seeing an upgraded v-mount/radiator will have him looking at the downpipe(missing pre-cat), that shiney new turbo(while intercoolers are legal, turbos are not legal to upgade) and the intake(there is no legal mod away from the stock airbox for the FC).
seeing an upgraded v-mount/radiator will have him looking at the downpipe(missing pre-cat), that shiney new turbo(while intercoolers are legal, turbos are not legal to upgade) and the intake(there is no legal mod away from the stock airbox for the FC).
However isn't there an intake that has a CARB exemption sticker?
10-10-10, 03:06 PM
#22
to all, but sometimes you have to think of smog techs like children. they can't know the ins and outs of every car and if they were you, you would assume there is more done to the car than just an intercooler upgrade(which would be correct). they take a risk not looking things over very thoroughly so in california the more stock the car looks the less headache it will be, especially if you get pulled over. keep in mind most people won't bend over to look under the car to see if there is a cat if everything else looks in place, short of few minor things like a cone filter(usually they won't bust your ***** over that, or a BOV inconspicously painted).
10-10-10, 03:07 PM
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they are but the more the engine bay looks modified the more the smog tech will turn you away. it's not easily doable making the car look stock and still make those power levels but it is doable, only swapping a few things out for the test.
seeing an upgraded v-mount/radiator will have him looking at the downpipe(missing pre-cat), that shiney new turbo(while intercoolers are legal, turbos are not legal to upgade) and the intake(there is no legal mod away from the stock airbox for the FC).
seeing an upgraded v-mount/radiator will have him looking at the downpipe(missing pre-cat), that shiney new turbo(while intercoolers are legal, turbos are not legal to upgade) and the intake(there is no legal mod away from the stock airbox for the FC).
10-10-10, 03:12 PM
#24
if you go v-mount it would have to stay v-mount for the tests. there really is no way to install a v-mount that allows the car to go back 100% to stock because of the cutting and fabrication involved. it's also why i gave the alternative of the auxiliary injection which is easy to place out of the way and be unnoticable.