az_lynx

Ok... I have been dealing w/ this for the past couple of weeks. Let me break it down. I posted this on the big list also....

-Got a PowerFC+Commander
-Tryed to back out the pins on the ECU plug but decided to just cut the wires.
-I am ABSOLUTLY positive I cut the correct 4 wires.
-Pluged in the PowerFC and tryed to start the car... started but died.
-Turned the ignition switch to the ON position and I can hear a fast clicking sound comming from under where the intake elbow and the intake manifold connect.
-Reconnected the 4 wires and pluged in the stock ecu.
-Check engine light is on and it's code 13. Pressure Sensor [Boost]
-Car starts but dosn't go into warm up procedure and if I try and dip into boost (by pressing on the gas) the car will stall.
-I suspect that maybe by trying to back out the pins in the ECU plug I messed it up somehow. Even know I tested each connection in the plug and they all seem to be fine... no crossing.
-Buy a cut engine wiring harness from someone (thank you). Cut mine off and connected it up... everything is connected correctly I did them one by one.
-Plug in the stock ecu and clear the ecu.... still error code 13.
-Try and start the car but now it woln't start.... has compression every so often but woln't start. Strong smell of gas when trying to start... suspect it's flooded now.
-Buy a boost pressure sensor off someone and I'm sure it works.
[starting tonight]
-Plug in the pressure sensor, reset ECU and STILL the error code. Figures....
-Do the flooding procedure... first WOT.. nothing... next remove EGI and WOT then EGI back and WOT... nothing... next remove EGI add MMO through break boost vacuum hose.... WOT a few times... replug EGI and then WOT.. nothing.
-Plug back in PFC thinking maybe my stock ECU is blown.... crank WOT starts for second.... but dies. Woln't start again.
-Plug back in stock ECU and try to start.... but woln't start.
-Thinking battery might be getting to drained. Don't have jumper cables (loaned them out) and don't have help to turn car around in the garage so I can get a vehicle up to it to try and jump it.
-Lost....................

Ok.... so there is a possibility that my stock ECU is blown AND I got a bad PFC. I am going to try and borrow a stock ECU this weekend and see if the light goes away.

My questions are... what else could cause error code 13? What the heck is that clicking sound when I turn the key to ON w/ the PFC connected? (BTW it does NOT click w/ the EGI fuse pulled). Can anyone suggest ANYTHING else? There is basicly ONE rotory shop here in AZ that knows stuff about performance parts... and it's about 2+ hours away. I can take it to a dealer if I have to (there is one here w/ a guy that knows rotory but don't know how much he knows about performance stuff) but that is also about 45 min away. I can do quite a bit at home and have access to a few tools... (most everything I need) Please... throw some ideas at me!

Thanks in advance
Chris

skunks

how long did it run after you turned it over that 1 time? and how did it die, did it sputter to a stop or just cut out all of a sudden? check the boost sensor which is near the driver side firewall, if you dont know where it is, i can get a pic for you, my brother once had this problem where his vaccume hose came off and the car stalled and would start but for only a couple of seconds and then died again, very similar to what you are describing, he hooked it back up with some wire and everything is now fine. also i sounds like u need to recharge that battery. i went thru 4 batteries trying to trouble shoot me eletrical gremlins! also, did you try taking out the sparkplugs and cranking the engine so that the compression blows out all the extra gas. good luck in anycase!

P.S. did you try putting atf fluid in the spark plug holes to clean out the housing?

az_lynx

Well lets see... at first it would run as long as I wanted it to but die on boost and not warm up (w/ stock ECU) and w/ PFC it would start and die immidatly.
NOW I suspect it's flooded and it woln't start at all.
I guess I need to turn it around so I can get a jump on the battery. THEN I don't have a clue what I'm gonna do... at least get it back to the point that it's running on the stock ECU then try and find EXACTLY where the clicking w/ the PFC is comming from. I want to borrow a ECU to see if it's my ECU BUT I don't want to mess anyone elses stuff up. As for the boost pressure sensor thats what I replaced w/ a working one. The short vacuum line IS connected and the little filter is there also. I'm going to pull that line when I get home tho and make sure it's ok on the bottom (no visible leaks but who knows). I was doing all the other flooding solutions so I wouldn't have to pull the plugs and do it that way but *shrug* we'll see I guess.
Thanks, chris

mmaragos

This may not help, but I would suggest plugging the PFC back in, turning the ignition to ON and going to the ETC menu, then to the sensor check menu so you can observe the voltages. I believe that the MAP sensor should have a voltage listed (PIM, I think). You could then hook up a small vacuum pump to the MAP sensor and see if the PFC registers a voltage change corresponding to drawing vacuum. If no pump, then maybe you can have someone blow into it (or get a long enough hose, so you can watch the PFC simultaneously). I guess that you could also log boost on the monitor screen.

If you get a voltage change at the PFC, then the MAP sensor and wiring is probably OK (if you have a shop manual, appropriate boost sensor output voltages should be listed somewhere in there).

You can also check some of the other sensor voltages too, not too sure if that is going to help though...I can't remember what is there.

az_lynx

I have continued this in the PFC section of the fourm because I am now looking for more PFC releated infomation. If you have a PFC and Commander or were watching this thread, please now refer to this thread for further information.

Thanks again!
Chris