To what?

The stock rear with an aftermarket diff and half shafts is very strong.

A cobra rear is stronger if built right and has more gear options.

 

And the TCI 6 speed auto can be used for road racing... its stronger and better geared than the zl1 camaro's 6 speed auto. And the Zl1 automatic was 2 seconds quicker on the nurburgring than the 6 speed manual.

 

Now were gitting some place, GT land.

 

Im wanting to do a ls3 swap didnt know if the stock rx7 rear end could handle the power are not

 

t56 for the win

 

Anybody suggest a 1st gear lock-out on a T5, T56, stock rear?

 

I currently use a manually shifted 4l80e with a 3500 stall Hughes lock up converter. I've used it for drag racing, autocross, and as a daily driver. It has worked well in all of these applications.


Torque converter selection is key to a great performing automatic transmission. My car is faster in the 1/4 mile with the 4l80e than with the T5 that was previously installed.


Steve

 

If you don't run slicks or go to the track much it will. I'm at 410rwtq and mine holds up fine. I'm just looking to upgrade to be able to go to the strip once and a while without having to worry about it.

 

emod19

with that 4l80e did it fit ok in the trans tunnel? I know that is a beefy trans, and I know tci's 6speed is basically the 4l80e with new internals to make it a 6 speed.

did you have to do any cutting, or did it fit right in?

 

I had to cut out the bumps that the OE crossmember mounted to and fabricate a new crossmember.

Steve

 

Go with a t56 dude

 

that's good to know. And the t56 is ok. but i'd rather have a 6 speed auto. much more consistent, quicker shifts, quicker times, and tci's 6 speed auto can hold more power. for the extra cash it's worth it.

 

T-56 all day. For rear options, call Ronin speedworks. They make a kit to bolt in a 8.8 out of a 02-05 for explorer, mountaineer,navigator ect. Broke way to may stub shafts with my LT1/T5 combo, and that was just doing some minor burnouts. Been waiting to kill my T5 to go to a T-56. T-56 + Ronin 8.8 kit = Good to go.

 

How much do those ronin 8.8 kits run? and I dont mean just the cradle? I'm looking for the complete rear diff and axles, etc... I'm wondering what i"m in for price wise.

 

To your door about 1200, which includes cradle, front mounting bracket, custom axel bars to use with ford inner cvs and t2 outer cvs, also can use 929 if im not mistaken, all boots for cvs. You need to source the diff from a 02-05 explorer, mountaineer ect. The diff will come with the inner cvs, so you also need to source outer cvs and then a driveshaft. I found my diff from a 02 explorer with 3.55 and open. The otions available stock are 3.55 and 3.73. Some come with traction locks also. For everything 100% done i am looking at about 1700. When compared to putting in a aftermarket 2-way lsd is only about 500-600 more and you have a stronger, better setup with more gearing options. For me it was a no brainer. Especially with the stock torque numbers the rx7 had with the rotary and then going and throwing in a LT1, the rear never stood a chance lol. Also the stuff you are going to get from Ronin is top notch A+ stuff. Check out their website and bookmark that ****.

 

Thanks for the info. And yeah I checked out that site last week and I have to source a few of those items you mentioned. But instead of picking up something used from an explorer, do you know of any reputable places I can get a custom rear diff from so I can choose my own ratio. And where I can get a set of axle shafts from that wont break with 700+ hp and slicks?

I'm a GM guy and and I don't know where to begin with these ford parts.

 

Toulsey ford should be able to get you everything you want, new gear ratios, rebuild kits. I dont know about a places that do custom 8.8s But you can order all the peices you want and then have it assembled by the professional of your choice. With new ratio and a fresh rebuild the only thing "used is the housing". When you say axel shafts, do you mean the actual axel bar? If so, the axel bars/shafts that come with the ronin kit are under a lifetime guarantee. If you break your first set, replaced no questions, break them again they will work you depending on you power. With HP like that, DSS also makes some kits that will intergrate with the ronin kit. Also check american muscle for for ford 8.8 parts

 

thanks for the recommendations. And I thought the ronin kit didn't come with the axle shafts bars. basically the axles that go from the diff to the wheels. I was under the impression those are pretty costly.

 

Nope kit comes with them, all you will need to source is T2 outer CV joints to build the complete axel assembly

 

Im wondering if a four speed munsi would be better than a five speed .. i wanna put a 350 or 327 in it and not sure how to go about it

 

T56 is killer unless you are building an all out drag car and every last tenth counts.

I sell new T56 Magnums which are basically a 2008+ Z06/ZR1 style internals with Fbody gear ratios (2.66 1st and .80 5th/.63 6th) in a case like the Fbody designed to be installed behind the engine... not like a transaxle in the Vette. The shifting quality is like a new car. The older '93-02 T56's shift nowhere near as nicely.... and the '04-06 GTO units have funky gear ratios and don't shift as nice either.

A stock FC (T2) and FD rear should hold the power unless you are drag racing a lot. Then run bias ply tires which are softer on driveline parts with less shock upon launch. The S4 '86-88 clutch pack style LSD is super strong and can be installed into the FD diff case as well. The stock FD Torsen over time won't handle drag race launches on slicks. I run the Cobra IRS rear, DSS 300M axles with 3.73 FMS gears. Gear ratios feel awesome on my setup. Close ratio 5th gear on the road courses helps a ton to stay in the powerband.

 

GNX7

where did you get the ford IRS setup from. I found the company that makes the cradle, but as for the rear diff, internals and axles I'm not sure of a good place to source those from?

Do you have any recommendations? I'm looking for a bullet proof rear end as I will be putting down about 650 to the wheels with sticky tires. So I don't want to replace parts often.

thanks.

 

Load of info to digest, so I will be simple and short. I have a 200-4R in my car (V-8)- running about 420-440rwhp: the trans is nice and hold well, but probably upgrading to the 460 after I burn this one. Auto with prostick kinda give bet of both worlds. Base your trans decision on HP you running- the guy earlier had pointed out. Good luck & have fun!!

 

Its hard to argue the clear choice most people use is the T56 lol

 

t56 for sure