twins seems to fit pretty well under the hood, pics
#52
John
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My car wouldn't start for a couple days and I just found out why. My idle for some reason was set at 500
Anyways, found that out and made a quick video. My downpipes are only to the tranny so it's still pretty loud. You can tell I was a bit excited in the vid. The gear drive isn't as loud as I expected, and that's very good news
http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/johnpham/MOV00347.MPG
Anyways, found that out and made a quick video. My downpipes are only to the tranny so it's still pretty loud. You can tell I was a bit excited in the vid. The gear drive isn't as loud as I expected, and that's very good news
http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/johnpham/MOV00347.MPG
#54
Hey John, looks good
Sorry about Tuesday I have been sick since Monday and finally getting over it.
So what are you doing next? I assume you have most of the exhaust finished now. .
Justus
Sorry about Tuesday I have been sick since Monday and finally getting over it.
So what are you doing next? I assume you have most of the exhaust finished now. .
Justus
#56
John
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Justus, what about tuesday? Did we have plans or something? I've been working pretty hard on the car the last few days.
Just realized I (we) forgot to install a pilot bearing so the engine has to come out one last time. This time some custom motor mounts will be made, in case I ever have to take the engine out again. Anyways, the whole exhaust is done. Sounds quite as hell. The engine is much louder than the exhaust so I looked to see if I somewhere made a big restriction, there wasn't. I guess it was only the turbos then. I was hoping to get it on the road this week but it's not gonna happen. I still have lots of wiring left to do. And I have to figure out what I'm gonna do with my brake setup
BTW, James is getting his FD back on the dyno in 2 weeks. I told him to schedule it on tuesday for you.
Here are some new pics. This one of whole setup
A side view
And a coupe of my new IC I had made today
Just realized I (we) forgot to install a pilot bearing so the engine has to come out one last time. This time some custom motor mounts will be made, in case I ever have to take the engine out again. Anyways, the whole exhaust is done. Sounds quite as hell. The engine is much louder than the exhaust so I looked to see if I somewhere made a big restriction, there wasn't. I guess it was only the turbos then. I was hoping to get it on the road this week but it's not gonna happen. I still have lots of wiring left to do. And I have to figure out what I'm gonna do with my brake setup
BTW, James is getting his FD back on the dyno in 2 weeks. I told him to schedule it on tuesday for you.
Here are some new pics. This one of whole setup
A side view
And a coupe of my new IC I had made today
#57
John
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BTW, if anyone is wondering, I mounted my radiator horizontal. I'll be making some ducts that route air from under the front bumper up through the radiator. I think this will give maximum air flow to both IC and radiator
#59
Damn John thats looking good!! If you look back a page or two you told me to stop by on Tuesday if I could help, sadly I couldn't.
When are you going to do the wiring/brakes? I have the same schedule as always so give me a call or PM me I am always down to help.
Justus
When are you going to do the wiring/brakes? I have the same schedule as always so give me a call or PM me I am always down to help.
Justus
#60
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by LT1-7
The engine is much louder than the exhaust so I looked to see if I somewhere made a big restriction, there wasn't. I guess it was only the turbos then.
The engine is much louder than the exhaust so I looked to see if I somewhere made a big restriction, there wasn't. I guess it was only the turbos then.
#61
Rotary Freak
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John-
That looks nuts...... let us know when you are driving it and get it broken in and then finally get beat on it. I'm sure it will be a handful with anything less than slicks out back.
What kind of Efan are you planning to run? What radiator is that?
Keep us posted. Looks great.
Do you plan to put your fender liners back on?
-Mark
That looks nuts...... let us know when you are driving it and get it broken in and then finally get beat on it. I'm sure it will be a handful with anything less than slicks out back.
What kind of Efan are you planning to run? What radiator is that?
Keep us posted. Looks great.
Do you plan to put your fender liners back on?
-Mark
#63
John
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Originally posted by gnx7
John-
That looks nuts...... let us know when you are driving it and get it broken in and then finally get beat on it. I'm sure it will be a handful with anything less than slicks out back.
What kind of Efan are you planning to run? What radiator is that?
Keep us posted. Looks great.
Do you plan to put your fender liners back on?
-Mark
John-
That looks nuts...... let us know when you are driving it and get it broken in and then finally get beat on it. I'm sure it will be a handful with anything less than slicks out back.
What kind of Efan are you planning to run? What radiator is that?
Keep us posted. Looks great.
Do you plan to put your fender liners back on?
-Mark
#64
John
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Originally posted by jimlab
John, how much boost are you planning on running on top of that stock block?
John, how much boost are you planning on running on top of that stock block?
#66
John
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Originally posted by Speedworks
any news John, It's an awesome threath you have hear. Did you have the change to finish the exhaust plumbing yet??
Great work
Neal
any news John, It's an awesome threath you have hear. Did you have the change to finish the exhaust plumbing yet??
Great work
Neal
#67
Super Snuggles
John, you do know that a one-wire alternator must self-excite to start charging, right? In other words, you have to rev the engine to about 3,000 rpm to get the alternator to start producing voltage if you install it in a true one-wire configuration. You can wire it to auto-excite, but of course then it's no longer technically a "one-wire" alternator.
Painless Wiring makes a plug (PN 30707) to connect to the back of the Street & Performance CS130 GM alternator that you bought from me to make it auto-excite. The red wire is connected to 12V+ (just loops around to the main charging post) and the white wire gets connected to the ground side of the charge light in the dash.
I distinctly remember telling you this. Did you try wiring up the alternator properly and it still didn't produce a charge? Pep Boys or another local auto parts store probably would have checked your alternator for free to make sure that it was the alternator itself that was defective. It just seems odd to me that you'd have to go through that many alternators unless there was something wrong with the wiring or you were using the alternator in one-wire mode and hadn't rev'd the engine to get it to excite and start charging.
Painless Wiring makes a plug (PN 30707) to connect to the back of the Street & Performance CS130 GM alternator that you bought from me to make it auto-excite. The red wire is connected to 12V+ (just loops around to the main charging post) and the white wire gets connected to the ground side of the charge light in the dash.
I distinctly remember telling you this. Did you try wiring up the alternator properly and it still didn't produce a charge? Pep Boys or another local auto parts store probably would have checked your alternator for free to make sure that it was the alternator itself that was defective. It just seems odd to me that you'd have to go through that many alternators unless there was something wrong with the wiring or you were using the alternator in one-wire mode and hadn't rev'd the engine to get it to excite and start charging.
#68
ZZzzzzz...PHshshshssshh
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Originally posted by LT1-7
Thanks Dean, what's going on with your FD?
Thanks Dean, what's going on with your FD?
#69
Rotary Freak
Glad to hear that you have the car rolling. Can't wait to see and hear some vids from it.
How long did you do over the vonversion?
Did you had to do some extra tuning except for the engine management system to be safe with turbo's on the stock engine?
Or did you just adjust the exhaust wastegates to a maximum pressure level so the turbo's don't spool to much and give to much pressure ont the air side?
How long did you do over the vonversion?
Did you had to do some extra tuning except for the engine management system to be safe with turbo's on the stock engine?
Or did you just adjust the exhaust wastegates to a maximum pressure level so the turbo's don't spool to much and give to much pressure ont the air side?
#70
John
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Originally posted by jimlab
John, you do know that a one-wire alternator must self-excite to start charging, right? In other words, you have to rev the engine to about 3,000 rpm to get the alternator to start producing voltage if you install it in a true one-wire configuration. You can wire it to auto-excite, but of course then it's no longer technically a "one-wire" alternator.
Painless Wiring makes a plug (PN 30707) to connect to the back of the Street & Performance CS130 GM alternator that you bought from me to make it auto-excite. The red wire is connected to 12V+ (just loops around to the main charging post) and the white wire gets connected to the ground side of the charge light in the dash.
I distinctly remember telling you this. Did you try wiring up the alternator properly and it still didn't produce a charge? Pep Boys or another local auto parts store probably would have checked your alternator for free to make sure that it was the alternator itself that was defective. It just seems odd to me that you'd have to go through that many alternators unless there was something wrong with the wiring or you were using the alternator in one-wire mode and hadn't rev'd the engine to get it to excite and start charging.
John, you do know that a one-wire alternator must self-excite to start charging, right? In other words, you have to rev the engine to about 3,000 rpm to get the alternator to start producing voltage if you install it in a true one-wire configuration. You can wire it to auto-excite, but of course then it's no longer technically a "one-wire" alternator.
Painless Wiring makes a plug (PN 30707) to connect to the back of the Street & Performance CS130 GM alternator that you bought from me to make it auto-excite. The red wire is connected to 12V+ (just loops around to the main charging post) and the white wire gets connected to the ground side of the charge light in the dash.
I distinctly remember telling you this. Did you try wiring up the alternator properly and it still didn't produce a charge? Pep Boys or another local auto parts store probably would have checked your alternator for free to make sure that it was the alternator itself that was defective. It just seems odd to me that you'd have to go through that many alternators unless there was something wrong with the wiring or you were using the alternator in one-wire mode and hadn't rev'd the engine to get it to excite and start charging.
The new one wire alt. I bought starts to charge right when I turn the car over. Even at 800rpms I get 14v.
#71
John
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Originally posted by RX7-2JOCK
Hey John, Wow your 7 looks amazing bro!! As for my 7, still collecting dust in my garage. I just need a few more semesters and then I'll be done with school. Hopefully if your not too busy after I graduate, we could get started on the project we talked about awhile ago.
Hey John, Wow your 7 looks amazing bro!! As for my 7, still collecting dust in my garage. I just need a few more semesters and then I'll be done with school. Hopefully if your not too busy after I graduate, we could get started on the project we talked about awhile ago.
Speedworks, I'm sure I'll be posting many vids for everyone to see and hear
I took alot of time for my conversion. There were alot of things holding me back from my conversion. School, work, money, forgetting where things went, waiting on vendors, life, ect. It took me a total of about 2.5yrs from start to now. I think if I could do it all over again full time with no school or work, I could pull the whole thing off in a few months. For my project I probably averaged about 5-6 hrs a week. Some months I didn't even touch it, and some I full on got my hands dirty
Tuning should be simple from what people have been saying. I have an LT1 edit as well as a wideband O2 sensor. For WOT runs, there is only one simple table I need to change. For street drivability, there should only be minor tuning as the MAF should sense the extra air flowing through
#72
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by LT1-7
I actually bought that plug and installed it just as you said except the white wire. That plug came with its own resistor so I installed it the way they said in the instructions. The other alt. I used was a used LT1 I had sitting in my garage, no go for that. The other one I tried was from an FD. It produced voltage but only 11.5 so I decided just to give it to my brother incase he needed it. I brought all 3 alt. to Autozone also. Just that FD alt. worked.
I actually bought that plug and installed it just as you said except the white wire. That plug came with its own resistor so I installed it the way they said in the instructions. The other alt. I used was a used LT1 I had sitting in my garage, no go for that. The other one I tried was from an FD. It produced voltage but only 11.5 so I decided just to give it to my brother incase he needed it. I brought all 3 alt. to Autozone also. Just that FD alt. worked.
The new one wire alt. I bought starts to charge right when I turn the car over. Even at 800rpms I get 14v.
#73
John
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I wired up just the battery cable, no other wires. I was suprised myself to find it reading at 14v idle. I gave it more throttle to see if it goes up higher but it topped out at 14.7v