Well, I have desided to go all out on this project. I have a set of the truck heads on the way, all ported and polished, bigger valves, electric water pump, cam, high rev lifter, roller rockers....

And I am looking into a Magnacharger super charger setup.

http://www.magnacharger.com/images/s...dcorvett-2.jpg

I was hoping if one of you with the LS1 already in place could check the clearance between the hood and the stock manifold? This setup is 3.5 inches taller than the stock manifold. If clearance is an issue, I will bag the idea as I do not want to change the FD hood. From pictures it looks close.

Thanks, Zach

 

Zach, it's not even close. The cleareance at the throttle body is less than 0.5"

I'll try and remember to check what the clearance is further back towards the firewall when I get home.

FWIW, it doesn't fit on the vette either (they end up buying new hoods too)

 

Yea, the Vette guys have the blower sticking through the hood (cutout). You could do the same and put a cowl over it. Towards the firewall we might have 2" of clearance but up front there isn't any at all.

Also the eclectric water pumps aren't recommended for street driven cars. I don't know your palns but I wouldn't do it for an almost daily driver.

 

Well I guess the Magnacharger is out of the question, but worth looking at.

Thanks for the heads up on the water pump. Although they are claiming that it is suitable for daily driven cars?

 

Well blowers are suppose to be sticking through the hood right?

Looks like you're right about the electric wp.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...p&vid=3&pcid=5

 

The procharger kit will fit with some rerouting of the piping.

I have been considering an electric wp myself, when I get stuck in hot weather traffic jams etc. my coolant temps have gone as high as 220*F. As soon as I get moving and the rpm's up, they drop back down to 200 or less.

 

Are you referring to the procharger like the Magnacharger I mentioned?

Also guys, here's a link to the group buy I got in.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565402

I think this is a new generation of electric water pumps. I will call and confirm the street issue.

I also think that if you have an underdrive harmonic balancer, you may hamper the alternator at low speeds since this think pulls something like 40 AMPS, I think, I need to verify that.

 

Nope, procharger as in centrifugal supercharger in front of the motor.

http://www.procharger.com

The D1SC unit is the one you'll likely want IIRC. The P1 is too small for that much effort, and the F1 is a behemoth.

That Mezeire will be just fine on the street. A friend with a Vette has one and daily drives his here in the TX heat. They actually make two versions, a street, and a race version. Just make sure you buy the street version.

Upgrading the alternator is a good idea anyways, even without the EWP. THe stock unit only puts out 107A.

 

Define "some rerouting" for the procharger?

I am looking for the easiest and simplest way to get about 450rwhp or so.

 

Good heads and cam will get you that!

 

That 402 you were looking at awhile back will get you 450rwhp, plus another 50-100

 

With my setup I should be at or close to 450 without the supercharger. It all adds up, cam, heads and larger valves, extrude-honed exhaust manifolds, electric wp, Fast intake, ported throttle body, roller rockers.

It must be my obsessive compulsiveness. I did not originally plan to do all this at once, but what else am I going to do while waiting for Hinson?

 

Not on a real dyno.

If you're like me, you'll change your mind about a dozen times. They've been known to take quite awhile on some pieces.

 

You will have to lose the power steering, but I have seen pics of it on cdk4219's fd and a 2nd gen ls1 conversion.

 

I understand the difference between DynoDynamics and Dynojets and how they measure horsepower and torque. It's just that all the "stuff" out there is rated around the Dynojet numbers.

 

I doubt you will see 450 rwhp, n/a through the manifolds. Maybe with some longtubes.

 

I have another question for you fellas.

The LS1 fuel system is non-return. Are you all running an external fuel pressure regulator with a static pressure set at somewhere around 50PSI and no vac line attached, using the return? I would think that would produce the same pressure as the non-return system? The reason why I am asking is that I planned to redo my fuel system while waiting and am wondering if I should keep the return line. I will probably go with Hinson's fuel system, but run 6AN steel braided line(s) from the tank.

 

I am sure you are correct, probably more in the 430 range. Now bear with me, I am getting up to snuff on this V8 stuff after having my head burried in turbos and rotaries for five years.

The guy doing the heads called and said that he gets good numbers from porting the stock LS1 heads, but reccomended that I go with truck heads for an extra 300 bucks, He said that they get 20 more HP from them and can put larger valves in them. I am not sure if the truck heads he is referring to are from a 6 liter engine or what, but they are aluminum.

Maybe you guys know more, but I am taking his word on it. He is supplying the heads, porting, polishing, 3-angle valve job, and supplying and installing the heavy duty springs keepers and larger valves for $1,600.00. Sounds like a good price to me.

 

I'm just poking a little fun since jetenginedoctor chimed in on your last thread.

 

He also told me to dump the aluminum Weiand intake becuase it heat soaks and you can lose up to 30HP. This was addressed with Wieand and they said that they are aware that the heatsoak is an issue, but had to make the intake for the street rod guys that want the bling, bling look. It makes sense. Add metal to the top of the engine where the heat rises to and it will collect there. I work with electronics and the same concept takes place in semiconductor heat sinks. They put the metal heat sink on top of the chip.

 

You need to run an external FPR. The f-body regulator is in their fuel tank. LS1 base pressure is 58psi. The stock fuel rails are a returnless system, but you'll need to keep the return line to route back from the FPR.

If you step up to a procharger, or other power adder, you'll need more than AN-6 line. I'm running two in-tank Walbros, aftermarket rails and AN-8 from the tank. Should be good to 800-900rwhp

 

Yea, I know you are poking fun. I am actually good friends with jetenginedoctor. He is a very smart guy and knows his stuff. He has helped me out greatly over the past year. He's just getting his point across.

 

The heads he's suggesting are likely the 5.3L heads for higher compression. Not boost firendly. The 6.0L heads will drop the compressionabout a half point (10.0 to 9.5), and are a common swap for people with FI setups.

AFR 205 heads can be had for another $300 or so, and they'll likely outflow the truck heads, and they have a thicker deck, which is a plus if you end up wanting to step up to some boost.

 

He seems nice enough, even if he doesn't know the difference between an LT1 and an LS1.

I'll be heading over his way when I get everything together to see what my baseline is.

 

Wingsfan, thanks for confirming my thinking on the fuel system. I greatly appreciate it. I think I will be happy with 430RWHP for a little while. I had that before, only at 7000RPM, minus 100 foot pounds of torque.