LS1 swap information

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Old 06-04-11, 03:59 PM
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OH LS1 swap information

Well Ive done my research on the LS1 fd swap and seems to be straight forword for the most part. Ive already got my LS1 and 6 speed and my donor vehicle but now im at the point where im ready to get things moving.
My main question is on the subframe everyone is using for there swaps and did it bolt right in or did you have to modify it. I was looking at getting the Hinson kit and I have called them and they told me it would be within 2 weeks that I should recieve my parts since they make them per order.
I thought I had read somewhere that they ordered the kit and took a long time to recieve the parts. I would like to know how the service has been and is Hinson who I should get these parts from?
Thanks for any info that will help me.
Old 06-04-11, 04:10 PM
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Try the "other engine conversion" subforum.
Old 06-04-11, 05:58 PM
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Groan
Today is the day for posting in the wrong forum
OP with 8 posts please read the FAQ and Stickies.....
V-8 Convos are on another subforum
Old 06-04-11, 05:59 PM
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There are a few people local to you that know all about the engine swap you can try to get a hold of them.
Old 06-04-11, 07:07 PM
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Thanks I will look for the correct area for my post.
Old 06-04-11, 10:30 PM
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Samberg seems to me to be the best but a have a FC

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=126.0

Samberg Performance
3688 washington st, suite d
Pleasanton, Ca 94566
925-484-5800
Old 06-05-11, 03:22 AM
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Thanks DCRotor I had been trying to find any info on sanberg as well. I really like his kits other than the cost is a little higher but he does atleast have pictures of his product and that I can say is one important part of getting people to buy stuff. I think I will give him a call monday and place an order with him.
Old 06-05-11, 10:46 AM
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for someone that has said they've done their research you are on the wrong forum
Old 06-05-11, 12:11 PM
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Although I hate this answer, Kaotic is right there are very few builds on this forum, Norotors.com is a great place to start. I like the Samnerg kit because it uses a front mounted over rad intake which seems to add more power.

One with Samberg's mounts:
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/car-died-vir-monday-time-start-lsx-project-890547/

One with Hinson's mounts:
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/tweakit-racing-93-ls1-fd-track-car-build-875889/
Old 06-05-11, 11:12 PM
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Sorry for being on the wrong forum as me doing research has nothing to do with where I decided to make a post. But anyways I was only asking a question so thanks to those with a knowledgable answer and for those that like to increase their post count by giving useless information must not have any good info but thanks for trying to send me in the right direction.
Old 06-06-11, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by kev2769
Sorry for being on the wrong forum as me doing research has nothing to do with where I decided to make a post. But anyways I was only asking a question so thanks to those with a knowledgable answer and for those that like to increase their post count by giving useless information must not have any good info but thanks for trying to send me in the right direction.
Not worried about post count....just tired of reading the same questions over and over and over and over. I'm trying to save you from getting grilled over here and educate you that you've got a lot of research and reading ahead of you on the other forum. Try to learn as much as possible on your own by reading build threads, reviews, stickies, and FAQ's before you start asking questions.
Old 06-06-11, 08:24 AM
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I mainly asked the question and the reason being is that I had thought people that would be able to give a direct answer that has used the product could give a answer. If the question has been asked and your tired of seeing the question then the best thing would be to let it go because now your in a thread dealing with a idiot that asked a question that you dont want to answer. I work many hrs a week at my job and I dont have time to look on the net for day after day to find my answer so I thought I might ask. You directed me to another forum but what forum you are refering to could have been useful.
Old 06-06-11, 08:27 AM
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www.norotors.com come join the fun! I'm TheTransporter88 there
Old 07-14-11, 10:28 PM
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Hello, I have completed the swap and will try to answer the questions you have listed as quickly as possible. feel free to ask any other questions because its much easier to ask than to spend all day/night figuring out something on your own..

Hinsons subframe is bolt in. its easy and straight forward. if putting in the engine from the top(crane) you will have to do the engine/trans seperately- you cant just swing the trans through the engine bay cause it wont fit if you dont take off the front bumper and all that junk- its much easier to put them in seperately. you will also have to put in the motor with the long tube headers ON otherwise the headers will not fit. you will need to dent the trans tunnel on the bottom drivers side to fit in the o2 sensor- make sure to put in o2 sensors before the trans or its a MAJOR PITA! you will also need to make a small cut on the front of the trans tunnel hole for the shifter to fit through- (around 1/2 inch). if using a fast intake you will need to cut through the first layer of the firewall. hinsons kit requires you to cut out the hood brace as well to fit the Fast intake. there will also need to be a brace section of the hood cut out for the radiator cap in hinsons kit. I can try to take pics of what I am talking about if you have any questions or need info.

Id encourage the kit. The car is FUN and FAST. love every min of it. but its alot of work and do not underestimate the costs. it will probably run you 20k to finish without cutting corners.

do it right the first time!!!
Old 07-14-11, 10:32 PM
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and concerning hinsons parts taking a long time- sometimes they take a few weeks, others they shipped pretty quick. I had mixed experience through them. there service wasnt the greatest- especially with the electrical! there fuel system is shitty and requires you to mount the pressure regulator under the car in a place that you cant adjust unless its jacked up- plan on buying around 11 ft for the return line. to mount under the hood... there power steering kit is a joke i had to make my own- ill help if you want power steering....
Old 07-15-11, 07:35 PM
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I'm in Cincy as well and build a few of these a year. Feel free to PM me if you want to stop by and check out a current build in process.
Old 07-30-11, 01:49 PM
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can you do the swap without the kit?
Old 07-31-11, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Zzang89
can you do the swap without the kit?
You will either need the to buy a subframe or be a good welder/fabricater but for best results if your doing a v8 conversion look on norotors.com
Ive already completed my swap just need to do a few things to get it running.
Old 07-31-11, 10:23 AM
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No
Old 07-31-11, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by adrenalinejunky
Hello, I have completed the swap and will try to answer the questions you have listed as quickly as possible. feel free to ask any other questions because its much easier to ask than to spend all day/night figuring out something on your own..

Hinsons subframe is bolt in. its easy and straight forward. if putting in the engine from the top(crane) you will have to do the engine/trans seperately- you cant just swing the trans through the engine bay cause it wont fit if you dont take off the front bumper and all that junk- its much easier to put them in seperately. you will also have to put in the motor with the long tube headers ON otherwise the headers will not fit. you will need to dent the trans tunnel on the bottom drivers side to fit in the o2 sensor- make sure to put in o2 sensors before the trans or its a MAJOR PITA! you will also need to make a small cut on the front of the trans tunnel hole for the shifter to fit through- (around 1/2 inch). if using a fast intake you will need to cut through the first layer of the firewall. hinsons kit requires you to cut out the hood brace as well to fit the Fast intake. there will also need to be a brace section of the hood cut out for the radiator cap in hinsons kit. I can try to take pics of what I am talking about if you have any questions or need info.

Id encourage the kit. The car is FUN and FAST. love every min of it. but its alot of work and do not underestimate the costs. it will probably run you 20k to finish without cutting corners.

do it right the first time!!!
Damn, misinformation here...

I've put two engines in with Hinson kits, both times with the bumper left on, and both times with the O2 sensors being installed last, no problems. You can go in from the top with the transmission attached, just as hundreds of people have done in the past... I found it easier to go in from the bottom with engine, tranny, headers, subframe all together, but have also done subframe first, then engine+tranny, then headers. If you're using the LS1-based kit and the JTR headers, you can put the headers on last. The Hinson headers are more expensive and more difficult to install (Get JTR), and must be installed on the engine prior to installing it. Also, the Hinson LS2-based kit will require you to install any headers with the engine. The Hinson kit is not just a bolt-in on the two I've done. You will need to enlarge one or two of the stud holes, it it won't go in. Not hard, but will be a pain if you don't find out until you are trying to install it with the engine.

GO with the Samberg kit and JTR headers, and you'll be happiest. Better product, better customer service.
Old 07-31-11, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Troux
Damn, misinformation here...

I've put two engines in with Hinson kits, both times with the bumper left on, and both times with the O2 sensors being installed last, no problems. You can go in from the top with the transmission attached, just as hundreds of people have done in the past... I found it easier to go in from the bottom with engine, tranny, headers, subframe all together, but have also done subframe first, then engine+tranny, then headers. If you're using the LS1-based kit and the JTR headers, you can put the headers on last. The Hinson headers are more expensive and more difficult to install (Get JTR), and must be installed on the engine prior to installing it. Also, the Hinson LS2-based kit will require you to install any headers with the engine. The Hinson kit is not just a bolt-in on the two I've done. You will need to enlarge one or two of the stud holes, it it won't go in. Not hard, but will be a pain if you don't find out until you are trying to install it with the engine.

GO with the Samberg kit and JTR headers, and you'll be happiest. Better product, better customer service.
It's amazing what bad info gets put on the internet. Troux is correct. You should only buy the Samberg kit. His service is better and his parts fit correctly. JTR or Spoolin Performance Headers can go in from the bottom after the engine is installed. Cutting of the firewall is not needed with this kit. Please do your homework before following the advice of anyone. Look around on the norotors forum and you will quickly see lots of helpful info.
Old 07-31-11, 05:47 PM
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I also forgot to mention that the 20K figure is BOGUS. A friend of mine did a very basic swap (no corners cut, just not super bling mil-spec, etc.) for about $5K, including all of the little misc. crap, and including PS and A/C.
Old 08-15-11, 07:05 PM
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Have you checked out grannysspeedshop.com? They have a bunch of info on a couple different motor swaps for the fc, including the ls1.
Old 08-16-11, 10:31 AM
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I have now completed my swap using samberg parts and all is Good and everything works.
Old 09-08-11, 11:04 AM
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Go with the Samberg kit.

I used the Hinson kit which was the only kit available 5 yrs. ago.

I'm lucky I didn't kill myself when after driving the car about 2 yrs. I found that they forgot to weld the tie rod ends.

Did a lot of damage when their torque arm broke last year. Not to mention the leaky radiator, bad fan, master cyl. parts missing etc.

All the Hinson parts on my car had to be strengthened with extra gussets or ears.


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