say's the guy who has to ask others opinion about what to do w/ "HIS" car.:uhh:

[QUOTE=TT_Rotary;7693316]say's the guy who has to ask others opinion about what to do w/ "HIS" car.:uhh:[/QUOTE

My swap has been finished about 1 year. The body is fresh out of paint with a full kit, wide rear etc etc. I was starting a thread that day because I was seeing how far it will go. Had no idea it was going to turn into a panzy lol. SO I know very well how to build a car. Its not my first I have built and most certain not my last.
Good luck with what ever it is you decide to do. :rlaugh:

No, it's not. LS4s are not iron. They are aluminum. You are not putting an LS4 into any rearwheel drive car as there is not a rearwheel drive transmission in existance that will bolt up to it without MAJOR modification.

No, it's a GenIII based motor, just like an LSx is a GenIII based motor.

Except for the fact that the block is IRON and 117lbs heavier. Are you going to spray paint it silver or something? And the fact that it uses a different damn crankshaft, that might be something you want to consider.

Right, because the LS4 is a GenIV based motor that only came in very select front wheel drive cars from 06 to present. There are very few of these cars produced (especially compared to the number of LS1 cars produced) therefore the price of those engines are much HIGHER than LS1s. Supply and demand. Remember that?

Why are you trying to this engine in your car? LS1 are very resonable. I've bought blocks for $100, long blocks w/ comp & harness for $1300, complete pullouts for $1700. Hell, I even bought a long block once for $750 because the guy tried to rebuild it and didn't know how. I brought it home in buckets.

Bullshit... Link...

As a matter of fact, I'll post a link.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...28#post8418128

There's a thread I started with a simple question. Is the LS1 the same thing as the LM7, LS4 or LS7. We'll see what the fine folks at LS1tech say about your antics.

No, I've posted the differences.

If you've got an LS4, then you don't have a truck engine. You said yourself that it came out of a truck. Therefore, a cam swap would be a good idea.

You just said the only difference is the price.

Yes, aluminum block is good to about 600hp. Iron good to about 1500hp. But one question. How the hell do you plan on putting 600+hp to the ground in a 2800lb car? My 450hp car can get me from 0-60 in 3.2secs and 0-100-0 in 10.6secs. How much faster do you need to go?

And, if you have an LS4, how do you plan on putting 600+hp to the ground in a front wheel drive FD?

No, it's 117. You can call your LS1 "Guru" and ask him to look it up in the GM service manual.

Agreed. That being said, I don't think there should be any more bullshit about an iron block LS4 that came out of a Z71. All you have to do is say, "ya know what? I don't think the LS1 is worth what people are paying for it, and since I want to swap a GenIII motor in my car, I think the LM7 is the way to go. Similar performance, similar engineering, and much lower pricetag. I don't mind the extra weight and I want the iron block because sooner or later, I'm going to boost it." This guy did:

http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx-7-bu...lm7-build.html

No shame in his game.

well said Eat-Pez!

:)

Wow, TT_Rotary has to be the biggest moron this side of planet stupider. I had to show the guys i work with this thread....they are LSx junkies...they chuckled!

To the OP.....20b is always an option. ;)

*Who needs a V motor when you have a 3 rotor. :)

+2

TT-ROTARY: Do us all a favor, get in your FD, drive to the river, and cut your wrists. if you make it, go sign up for a chevy forum.

^ :rlaugh: TT rotary youre an embarassed to the rotary community, as im reading this thread you truly dont know what the fuck youre talking about. there is a for sale section in this forum and i suggest you do yourself a favor :lol2:

wow this thread is pointless if i ever swap an fd it be a 3 rotor!

Not practical, and depending on what state you live in, not smoggable. You can smog an LS1/2/3/6/7 motor.

TT_Rotary is definetly big on the moron scale though. He's a disgrace to car enthusiasts everywhere.

I say if your the type of person who likes to take the easy way out in life go ls1 all the way.

If your the type of person who is packin where it counts, and never backs down from a challenge then go rotary power.

Wheres planet Stupider???;)

LOL, that's the dumbest excuse for not going rotary I've heard yet.

+1

"LS1 FD, so easy a caveman could do it!"

You (lopedl) obviously know absolutely nothing about engine swapping. And I don't mean putting a POS motor in a POS car; I mean swapping it RIGHT. How would you go about lowering the PS pump pressure from 1300psi (GM standard) to ?00 psi (do you even know what PSI the Mazda rack opperates?)? Or getting the AC working? How would you go about taking the signal delivered from the FD dash (which is not the same that the GM computer uses), convert the signal, deliver it to the GM computer, add circuitry that was left in the donor car to your GM computer's AC circuit, and deliver that signal to the GM compressor to compress freon that is circulated through the Mazda AC lines? O, by the way, you need to get the GM pressure sensor into the Mazda lines somehow too. How about the oil pressure gauge? Getting the speedo working after you remove the FD's tranny and ECU? And if you figured out all of that, how would you crank the car? being that the GM PCM has a security feature that won't run the car unless the steering column sees the chip in the GM key.

You have no idea what you're talking about.

Please say you're joking with that. If you're not, you truly are pathetic.

It is already all figured out. The dokota digital box takes care of the speedo. The tach picks up the signal from the gm computer and we wire it to out factory cluster..1 wire actually. The ac is easy to do. Many people have before. Also the ps is simple as well, hydro shop makes the lines. Or even pyro offers then with the set spring in the new line to work very well. It all works as if it was factory.

Ha, I know that. I'm one of the first to get the AC going using the GM computer. AC is easy to do if you don't want computer control, but one good time of merging onto the interstate with your AC on and you've got a hole in your compressor and 3 bottles of freon sprayed all in your engine bay. Ask me how I know.

If you want an easy solution to having the PCM control the AC, check my thread on the V8 forum. I can mod hoses, supply adapter fittings, and provide all wiring instructions.

Hydro shop can make PS lines, but not lower your pump pressure. Good luck getting your stuff from Pyro. I've modded clutch lines and wiring harnesses that customers sent him and never sent back. Customers had to buy new shit and send it to me.

And, I really wasn't asking someone who has already done this swap, I was referring to the guy that said an LS1 is an easy out.

I have never heard bad things about pyro. Although he is bad at picking up his damn phone. Other then that he was alright. But I guess to each their own. Pm me a link of what you offer exactly. I am thinking an LS7 into a 2005 honda s2000next.

figured i'd share a lil info about my swap, bought a T56/clutch for $450.

.... actually no, a V8 will tear ur rotary engine up anyday.

on the road, and in price.

ur 9k for 150 hp... on a rotary engine.. my 9k in a V8 for 500hp.. :icon_tup:

u must be desperate for attention, telling me to go cut my wrist, thats crying out for help, ill show u a little bit of attention for the time being... u obviously have been stalking me for quite sometime, posting about me in the texas lounge, so please.. go find interest in another guy.. im not interested into the whole sausage on sausage thing.. i go for chix only.

Black please forgive me for posting in here with no useful information. I'm a rotary lover at heart, but understand what you're doing with this swap even though it's not my cup of tea.

Anyway I think this thread should already be nominated for "Thread of the year" as it has truly made my night so much better. I just read every single post in full and must say this was the best thing I've read on any forum, in any book, or magazine in recent memory.

But I digress...have you figured out what you're going to do with the car and do you have any video of it running/driving?

K

I told you deals could be had. I know where an LS1 (the real thing, not the "LS1") w/ comp & harness is for $1400.

Now, what are you going to bolt this up to? The FWD LS4? or the iron block LM7? Either way, please post pics. Don't forget to post pics of the block's casting #s.

Thanks for the kind words. At this time I do not have a video of it running. But once I do I will post it for sure. Tonight I had it out, maybe some body caught it on tape. I will check and see.

its a 5.3L LSx motor.. and again, im trying to get this through ur thick skull.. its an LS1.. w/ a three thousands of an inch.. smaller bore.. and yes.. i will be putting an aftermarket fuel rail system on there, different cams.. the engine will not be 1 bit stock.. at the moment, i do not have the engine yet.. its still at the shop im getting it from.. it will take time to gather the parts, but when i do get the parts, i will definately take pics..