clokker

iTrader: (2)

Among all of your absurd statements this one stands out as a perfect example that you haven't a clue.
A V-8 is a V-8, and most mechanics could care less what the body surrounding it is.
Point of fact, engine access in our 3rd gen swapped LT1 is better than the Camaro that donated the drivetrain.
Since most swaps utilize the donor engine wiring harness and ECU, troubleshooting engine problems is exactly the same as the stocker.

Yes, some aspects of a swapped car are very "custom" and require a thinking mechanic to deal with but the very same could be said of a hotrodded rotary engine...if it ain't stock your basic service tech will be confounded, no matter what engine he's looking at.



You keep saying this as though it's inarguable fact, yet have failed to deliver the two clean, good paint, no rust units that I've already said I'd buy.
Maybe in your area it's true, in mine, it's not.
Sure, maybe I can find this clean shell tree that grows in your back yard but then I'd have to ship it halfway across the country which effectively doubles the price...or are you going to claim I can FedEx it?

Most of the numbers you use to come up with this "$3500 car" valuation just don't make any sense to me.

dawicka2

Back and forth with the same ****.

Car is a ripoff, unless you are a rich crackhead.



OP: Did you pay 9,000 for this car?

john ny

slickmonkey77

no i havent bought a car yet. i found one in NY for 6k with the same swap but its not as nice and needs paint. plus, i would have to have it shipped before i can even look at it. so that's out.
im currently debating whether i wanna buy this car still or possibly just a car that is naturally a v8, such as an older camaro or corvette. either will it will prob cost me about the same in the long run.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Actually, you keep posting ****, others are posting facts.

Just out of curiosity, how do you value your car?
Given that it lacks suspension, paint and a running motor I'd guess somewhere around $1000....maybe $1500 if the buyer really liked your bodykit attempts.
Sound about right?

dawicka2

lol. Honestly, right now 400.00 (without wheels) for the shell if i am lucky. Bodykit probably could get 400, being that it is used.

It is ****. I have about 3,000 dollars in it, had a fun 2 yrs, learned a lot but my engine is toast.

(Rebuild will be a beast )

Back to our discussion though.....

A friend of mine (fellow fc owner now with ae86) purchased a t2 a few years ago for 2200 dollars. Car was clean. He pulled his engine, and streetported it with a buddies templates, and replaced the "only necessary" internals. He then got a used turbo with a 60-1 compressor (same turbo i am sold on), and a used rtek 1.5. All of these parts costed an additional 1400 dollars.

He put 292 to the wheels at the k104 show last year at 9psi.

(This is what i want to emulate my future set up off of just with high compression 6 port block lower boost and better tuning)

I guess my whole argument speaks from a do it your self standpoint because this 3,600 dollar car is probably on the same performance page as your 9 thousand dollar one.

I just have issues with the fact that it is 5,000 dollars more. That is a lot of money.

I did look over the pictures (9kcar)and the car really is clean. Paint and wheels should count for more + battery relocation interior etc.

Still clinging to the fact that you could buy much more car for 9,000 dollars.

I guess i can cut and paste several cars (within 1,000) that are faster, more stylish and have less opportunity for future issues (unknown wiring, na? rear with v8 torque) than this stock looking 20 year old rx7.

It really is clean though.

john ny

clokker

iTrader: (2)

In your build thread, last December you said you were already in for $4200.



Not even close.
A modestly breathed on NA LT1 will be running upwards of 400 rwhp and do it day in, day out.

You keep assuming- with no evidence whatsoever- that the car has wiring issues. Why?
It's just as easy- or difficult- to correctly wire a V-8 swap as a NA to turbo swap.

Why have you spent all the time, energy and money on your 20 year old car?
By the time you rebuild your engine you'll be in the $7-8 k range...shouldn't you take your own advice and get the " faster, more stylish and have less opportunity for future issues" car that you think the OP should be buying?

Good for the goose, good for the gander, etc.

dawicka2

My 3000 dollar estimate was minus wheels. So yeah its in the 4s.

after rebuild and new turbo and streetport i will be in the mid to low 6s.

Not 9 thousand, not stock looking either.

If that car is 400 wheel horsepower i will back off.

john ny